Glacier White 200 Cup

[R20BTG]

Holding firmly onto the Jesus handle there @burrellbloke

 

[burrellbloke]

Holding firmly onto the Jesus handle there @burrellbloke

That was one of Ethan's friends who was taken out for a session.

I usually hold on more subtly by gripping the edges of the seat with white knuckles - it gives the appearance of being calm.

 

[burrellbloke]

Since we swapped out the starter motor the Clio had been generally behaving itself. The engine works fine. The "driving" functions of the car work fine like the brakes etc., etc. I took it for a short drive to put some petrol in it in the week. It was cold and slippery on the roads but the front of the car felt odd - it probably needs the alignment done. I am not used to the bumps and squeaks that the Cup made, and that the newer Clio makes, as I have not driven a Clio for about 3 months now.

We have had a quote to sort out the rear quarter damage that was on the car when we bought it. The quote for the work is less than we sold the Recaro seats for so we are now just waiting for a date to be sorted for the work to be done. Once the bodywork has been done I can sort out the rest of the exterior of the car with a clay bar, polisher and remove off of the muck around the rubber seals etc., etc.

What I am trying to sort out with the Clio now is the internal electrics.

I had spent a bit of time in the evenings this week with the car connected to CLIP. The more I have played around with CLIP the more I have realised that it has very detailed information about the Clio. Most of my previous efforts with CLIP have involved me changing settings and just hoping for the best. At the start of the week I was getting an error message that told me there was an inconsistent configuration with the configurable computers. This stumped me until I worked out that the settings stored in the UCH were different to the airbag computer. When I solved the inconsistent configuration error message I was able to see all of the computers on the car network. What I noticed was that I could see all of the computers on the network apart from the radio, multimedia display, communications, lighting computers. CLIP can communicate with the UCH and it can save and change the settings in the UCH. The things that are not working are kind of related to the UCH but for the time being I have ruled out the UCH as being the primary problem.

At the moment the car has the following problems:

1. No electric windows
2. No multi media display
3. No radio
4. No internal lights
5. The boot will not unlock
6. No auto lights

Most of these problems could be ignored as this is a track car, but the boot not unlocking is a problem.

The light and light sensor is not connected to the network. The electric windows and no internal lights could be problem that we have caused when we transferred across parts from the Cup to the full fat. There is no power getting to the radio or multimedia display. The boot switch has been swapped over but is not working so I am hoping that it is an electrical signal that is the issue.

Today I went out to the Clio and found that it had a flat battery. Although I have got a PC680 sat indoors we have not done any battery relocation work yet so we just went to Euro Car Parts and bought a replacement Bosch battery. I swapped over the battery and noticed that I was swapping out an old Bosch battery for a new one and they were exactly the same. This makes me a bit concerned that there is something in the car draining the battery when it is just sat idle and not running. But a new battery rules out the issues being related to the battery.

As drove out to Euro Car Parts we cleared up some of the Cup debris and went to the tip with battered and broken parts.



We then decided to pull up the footwell carpet to see if there was any water causing problems. Straight away we found that the footwell had quite a lot of water sloshing around. We pulled up the foam and squeezed out as much water as we could. We removed two pieces which are now drying in the house.



I was keen to see if there was any signs of corrosion on the electrical wires. The wiring loom runs just under the doorway and does not sit flush on the floor. It is slightly raised and was not sat in the water that was in our car. We did find a 20p coin that had turned green so it must have been sat there in water for some time.



We then checked the big plug on the passenger side floor. Most of the plug was fine but there was green corrosion in it.



Whatever connections are in the middle of the green plug have signs of corrosion on them.



I now need to go through the wiring diagrams and see if I can work out what the wires in the green plug are for, and see if they are in any way connected to my car electrical issues.

 

[Helpimonfire]

I believe that connector goes to the rear of the car, for the fuel pump, sender and I think it also goes into the bootlid so may be causing issues with the boot not opening.

Auto lights and interior lights are in a loom that run up the NSF A pillar, you might find you have no auto wipers either as they both run up that side and into the rear view mirror.

 

[Jakkehoop]

Since we swapped out the starter motor the Clio had been generally behaving itself. The engine works fine. The "driving" functions of the car work fine like the brakes etc., etc. I took it for a short drive to put some petrol in it in the week. It was cold and slippery on the roads but the front of the car felt odd - it probably needs the alignment done. I am not used to the bumps and squeaks that the Cup made, and that the newer Clio makes, as I have not driven a Clio for about 3 months now.

We have had a quote to sort out the rear quarter damage that was on the car when we bought it. The quote for the work is less than we sold the Recaro seats for so we are now just waiting for a date to be sorted for the work to be done. Once the bodywork has been done I can sort out the rest of the exterior of the car with a clay bar, polisher and remove off of the muck around the rubber seals etc., etc.

What I am trying to sort out with the Clio now is the internal electrics.

I had spent a bit of time in the evenings this week with the car connected to CLIP. The more I have played around with CLIP the more I have realised that it has very detailed information about the Clio. Most of my previous efforts with CLIP have involved me changing settings and just hoping for the best. At the start of the week I was getting an error message that told me there was an inconsistent configuration with the configurable computers. This stumped me until I worked out that the settings stored in the UCH were different to the airbag computer. When I solved the inconsistent configuration error message I was able to see all of the computers on the car network. What I noticed was that I could see all of the computers on the network apart from the radio, multimedia display, communications, lighting computers. CLIP can communicate with the UCH and it can save and change the settings in the UCH. The things that are not working are kind of related to the UCH but for the time being I have ruled out the UCH as being the primary problem.

At the moment the car has the following problems:

1. No electric windows
2. No multi media display
3. No radio
4. No internal lights
5. The boot will not unlock
6. No auto lights

Most of these problems could be ignored as this is a track car, but the boot not unlocking is a problem.

The light and light sensor is not connected to the network. The electric windows and no internal lights could be problem that we have caused when we transferred across parts from the Cup to the full fat. There is no power getting to the radio or multimedia display. The boot switch has been swapped over but is not working so I am hoping that it is an electrical signal that is the issue.

Today I went out to the Clio and found that it had a flat battery. Although I have got a PC680 sat indoors we have not done any battery relocation work yet so we just went to Euro Car Parts and bought a replacement Bosch battery. I swapped over the battery and noticed that I was swapping out an old Bosch battery for a new one and they were exactly the same. This makes me a bit concerned that there is something in the car draining the battery when it is just sat idle and not running. But a new battery rules out the issues being related to the battery.

As drove out to Euro Car Parts we cleared up some of the Cup debris and went to the tip with battered and broken parts.

View attachment 153184

We then decided to pull up the footwell carpet to see if there was any water causing problems. Straight away we found that the footwell had quite a lot of water sloshing around. We pulled up the foam and squeezed out as much water as we could. We removed two pieces which are now drying in the house.

View attachment 153185

I was keen to see if there was any signs of corrosion on the electrical wires. The wiring loom runs just under the doorway and does not sit flush on the floor. It is slightly raised and was not sat in the water that was in our car. We did find a 20p coin that had turned green so it must have been sat there in water for some time.

View attachment 153186

We then checked the big plug on the passenger side floor. Most of the plug was fine but there was green corrosion in it.

View attachment 153187

Whatever connections are in the middle of the green plug have signs of corrosion on them.

View attachment 153188

I now need to go through the wiring diagrams and see if I can work out what the wires in the green plug are for, and see if they are in any way connected to my car electrical issues.

i had a similar problem when my scuttle drain was blocked solid and i had a lake in my passages foot well and that plug was submerged in water

the alarm would randomly go off amd not turn off the boot would not unlock the hazards would just start flashing and the car would not unlock form the fob

i took all the carpet and foam out and let it dry out for a week or so and put plug a electric dehumidifier in the car for 2 weeks (this was in summer time) i took apart that plug and had the same green corrosion in it so cleaned it it up with electrical and contact cleaner and let it dry out and it seamed to do the trick amd every thing worked again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jimmybell]

wait what.. you got a Yaris GR?! nice!

 

[burrellbloke]

wait what.. you got a Yaris GR?! nice!

Yes, I had to replace the Megane 280 after it collided with a deer.

 

[EthanMenace]

After closer inspection of the water damaged plug we’ve found at least 1 wire fully corroded and pulled out of the pin.

Anyone have any experience with repairing this kind of stuff? i’ve been trying to find replacement pins so i can cut off the old ones and crimp some fresh new ones on but i’ve got no idea where to find the right ones.

We do have the plug in the old Cup that’s in good condition i could cut out and then connect the wires together but i’m not sure if that’s a sensible option or not?

Can anyone offer any advice?

 

[deekay16v]

Replacing terminals is sensible thing. There should be stamping on connector housing, then you know manufacturer. Probably AMP, Tyco, TE. Teh you can source new ones according to cable size. (example https://sg.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-contacts/1361927)

 

[jimmybell]

i've had to go back 5 pages and catch up - you boys have been making some serious progress!

new Yaris GR, you now have TWO clios and have almost completed a full parts swap, and there's a subtle clio 182 (trophy?!) being used as a tip run car in the pictures above?

Would love to see the Yaris and Clio going round at the same time for an interesting comparison!

for the above (or any electrical) RS Components is definitely your friend.

 

[burrellbloke]

new Yaris GR, you now have TWO clios and have almost completed a full parts swap, and there's a subtle clio 182 (trophy?!) being used as a tip run car in the pictures above?

Well one Clio has a knackered chassis leg so will be off to the scrap yard once we have done the engine swap.

 

[turkie172]

Remove the wires with pins connected clean then refit I have the visu disc I'll have a look and see if I can find the pins

 

[burrellbloke]

Remove the wires with pins connected clean then refit I have the visu disc I'll have a look and see if I can find the pins

That’s the plan for @EthanMenace at the weekend.

If you can find the pins on Visu then that would be really helpful.

 

[turkie172]

 

[turkie172]

Alarm wire seems like a separate 10A fuse powers it

 

[turkie172]

 

[turkie172]

Best guess for connectors using renault part number on first drawing of connector243424M462

 

[EthanMenace]

Thanks @turkie172, this is really helpful!

 

[R20BTG]

Having repaired some wiring similar to this on my Vespa recently, I'd recommend:

- Some good needle-nose pliers to pull the pins through the connector
- Buy more pins than you think you'll need, you will damage some, having a box of spares is no bad thing
- Look at getting the proper crimp tool to squeeze the pins onto the wire, they bend easily and sometimes not in the right way
- Make sure you have a decent wire stripper and wire snip tool
- If you can, get some heat shrink on the wire on the back of the connector

 

[turkie172]

Get a good electrical contact cleaner and a fiberglass pen you should be able to clean the contacts in place as the wrong tools to remove the connectors from the block can cause more problems. Be careful with the fiberglass pen the fibers can stick into your finger tips and worse that wood splinter as they are hard to see are smaller and harder to remove. Even get a multi connector removal tool set cheap if you don't know the exact tool you need, working on motorcycle race looms we used Deutsch and military connectors the fitting and removal tools make things really easy because if you damage the locking part when you push the connector together the pins can push back into the block and make no contact at all which you may not be able to see. I think wurth made some sort of electrical oxidization removal spray "CONTACT SPRAY OXIDATION SOLVENT"