@EthanMenace did the plug/loom repairs today, attached the terminal blocks to the plug, plugged it back in, turned the car on... and nothing changed.

Several corroded wires have been reattached, others have been cleaned up and recrimped.

The fact the boot refuses to unlock is irritating me. We normally fill the car up with wheels and tools then drive to track days so not being able to open the boot is a big problem.

The only sensible solution to this problem is to install some Aerocatches.

Screenshot 2023-02-10 at 20.29.31.png

I have ordered some lockable Aerocatches for the boot, some normal ones for the bonnet and some Aerocatch boot brackets to install the pins.

This is all leading to slippery slope of possibly yanking out items from the interior of the car that are either not working or not needed.
 
There's a white tab on the boot lock which you can move with a screwdriver from inside the car to open the boot, you can then take out the button at the bottom of the bootlid (the one you press when opening the boot) and short the wires. If it unlocks doing this then the button is at fault, if not then look at the lock and the wiring contacts.
 
There's a white tab on the boot lock which you can move with a screwdriver from inside the car to open the boot, you can then take out the button at the bottom of the bootlid (the one you press when opening the boot) and short the wires. If it unlocks doing this then the button is at fault, if not then look at the lock and the wiring contacts.

I’ve swapped over the button from the other car which didn’t make difference so i’m pretty sure it’s not the button.
I’ll give this a go at some point though to make sure, cheers Sean
 
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Normally when you disconnect the passenger floor connector the boot releases as far as I can remember if you are mixing the keyless and cup computers around the looms are different here is an example of the keyless and normal key tailgate lock wiring.
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Mk2 boot unlock video picture of mk3 lock

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Thanks @turkie172

The car still has a full fat 200 loom. The boot did not unlock when the loom was disconnected.

I will have a look at the video. None of the keyless entry features of the car work either and I would guess that until that part of the electrics is fixed the boot will continue to be a problem. The keycard works to lock and unlock the doors by pressing the button on the card.

At the moment we have to use the manual white switch to unlock the boot. Some Aerocatches will solve that problem.
 
We got the alignment done yesterday at Tyre Smart in Witham.

Here is the before measurements.

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There was a little bit of toe at the front!

That was adjusted and here is the current set up.

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I think that I will get two 30 minute shims from Pure to set the rear camber to -2 degrees.
 
Toe will change when ya put the camber shims in tbf.
Bit of a pain, but you’ll be getting very friendly with the alignment guy
 
Toe will change when ya put the camber shims in tbf.
Bit of a pain, but you’ll be getting very friendly with the alignment guy

I will stick a 20 minute toe shim on the right and hope for the best just to see if I can even out the toe on both sides. At £55 a go for alignment I won't bother getting it measured again until there a major change with the car.
 
Fair play. I’d advise you do it, as it changes quite a bit.
Mine was toeing in about 1.5 degrees after I’d fitted the camber ships. It drove horrible.
 
[mention]burrellbloke [/mention] [mention]EthanMenace [/mention]

if you guys ever need a place for a good geo set up and don't mind a bit more of a travel then pop down to R2 Automotive in tilbury they specialise in hondas and jap cars mostly but they really know there's stuff about alignment

I work for them now so fingers cross i can talk them in to doing some more Renault stuff real soon lol [emoji38]

have a look on our facebook you can see what we do we hold a few track days and events a year as well [emoji1360]


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Today @EthanMenace and I had a look at the boot to work out how to fit the Aerocatches. After pulling away some of the trim we worked out that it would probably be easier to gut some of the additional boot metal to make fitting the Aerocatches easier.

We had already decided to get rid of the rear wiper so got on with that job this afternoon.

The boot lock was removed.

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We then drilled out the rivets holding the rear wiper motor on to the boot lid and used a grinder to chop off the centre spindle on the motor.

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Then we stuck in a cheap eBay bung with silicone sealant to plug the hole.

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We plan to thin out the boot lid loom so that it just has the wires for the heated rear screen left.

I have had a few days off this week and washed the car yesterday. The paintwork on the car is really rough. I gave it the usual jet wash to get as much dirt off as possible, then a snow foam, then a two bucket wash. After the washing I gave the car a good going over with some fallout remover. The car was covered in "stuff".

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I got out a clay bar and gave it a quick once over on the roof, bonnet and boot lid. The paint now feels a lot smoother but still does not feel as good as it should. Although the car is destined to be a track car it still needs to look good. Once the damage to the drivers side rear quarter is done at the end of February 2023 I might give the car a good going over and sort out the paintwork properly.

There are a few jobs to do before our track day at Brands Hatch next week like install the Aerocatches for the boot and bolt in the passenger seat.
 
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The Aerocatches are now on the boot. This solves the electrical problem of the boot not unlocking.

It was a slightly odd feeling cutting holes in to the boot lid.

@EthanMenace and I spent ages trying to work out if we should attach the brackets to hold the pins to the boot first, or put on the Aerocatches to the boot lid first and make the pins fit to the Aerocatches. Eventually we decided to put on the Aerocatches first as the pin brackets looked adjustable enough to make them fit to the catches.

We looked at photos of other Clios to work out where the Aerocatches should go on the boot lid and then decided to put them where we thought they looked like they were in the best position.

After creating a stencil we then attached it to the boot lid and got out the Dremel and the grinder and started cutting.

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The sparks did make me wonder if we had lost our minds mangling a perfectly healthy Clio.

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The Aerocatches were attached to the car with a good amount of sealant and then holes were drilled for the 6 screws for each catch. Once the catches were on we moved on to the pins.

After a lot of fettling the pin brackets from No. 7 Motorsport were attached and sat in the right position.

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The Aerocatches look okay, but there is far too much chrome on the boot so at some point in the future the chrome badges will come off and a black diamond can go on the boot lid.

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When the Aerocatches were complete we moved on to adding a few shims to the rear beam.

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The geo for the rear beam was -1.5 degrees of camber and 10 minutes of toe on the passenger side and nearly 30 minutes of toe on the drivers side. An extra half a degree of negative camber has been added to each side and two 10 minutes to shims have been added to the drivers side. Hopefully the rear toe is a bit more equal now - but only an alignment check at in the future will really show if we have improved the geo.