Can you not recode the cup item?

Not sure. I was looking for the part number last night on catcar.info last night and there seem to be two BCMs listed.

Image 13-12-2022 at 22.37.jpeg

Both of the BCMs have the same part number.

As far as I can tell BCMs have to be coded to the car. A lot fo the services on eBay suggest that you need to send them the old BCM and they will program a newly supplied BCM. I have got CLIP plugged it in and could see options for the BCM on the full fat but did not spend long enough looking to see if I can use CLIP to completely reprogram a BCM.
 
Just wanted to wish you good luck tomorrow at Brands. I had planned on popping down to say hello but have been struck down by bird/manflu.

It got cancelled by the circuit the other day unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately as i still haven’t been able to get the new clio running!
 
  • Like
Reactions: M154MATT
It got cancelled by the circuit the other day unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately as i still haven’t been able to get the new clio running!

It may be a blessing in disguise and give you a bit more time to get MK2 up and running. I was down at Snetterton last Sunday for a Pistonheads meet and they'd not gritted anything. Even the car park was like a skating rink.
 
This week has been a bit frustrating. Brands Hatch was cancelled on 17th December 2022 because of the recent snow. The Clio would not have been ready even if the snow had been cleared.

Screenshot 2022-12-14 at 10.26.58.png

Since the car decided not to start this week we have both been scratching our heads trying to work out what the issue is. All of the fuses and relays have been checked, earth straps have been checked and the TDC sensor has been checked. The battery was swapped. Nothing would make the car start. Then yesterday I went out to the car and I managed it get it to start, I repeated started and stopping the car a few times, and then it refused to start again. This process was a bit odd as first of all the keycard buttons would not unlock the car, then when I manually unlocked the car the keycard started to work again. I had to hold in the start button to get the engine to turn over. There was one occasion when I had held in the start button and had released it for a few seconds when the car started.

Now that I know that the car can start I am pretty sure it is electrical gremlins causing the problem. The starter motor does work, the fuel pump must work, and there are no longer any "steering not locked" messages.

I tried to connect CLIP yesterday and could not seem to get any signal out of the OBD2 port. I have put that down to the electrical issues at the moment.

I have pulled out the BCM from the car and will try to tackle that as the first issue.

IMG_4406.jpeg

If the BCM is replaced and recoded and I am still having the same problems I will move on and try another solution.

69289074345__F8A98441-0890-4768-9EC0-965960A4DBC2.jpeg
 
We have been making slow progress with the Clio.

I have acquired another BCM so that we can send both away and get the BCM that came out of the full fat cloned on to the newly acquired BCM. Before Christmas I had phoned around to locate a place that had the expertise to clone and recode and eventually found a place in Norwich called ECU Connection. The BCM wil be sent off this week and hopefully it will be returned next week.

@EthanMenace is not happy with the appearance of the full fat and has spent some time changing trims around. The silver trim around the air vents inside has been replaced with the plan matt trim from the cup. The gloss white bump strips and silver bullets have also been swapped over now.

IMG_4503.jpeg

The electronic adjustable wing mirrors have also been removed and replaced with the manual cup versions. There are no fancy gloss black mirror caps on this car.

IMG_4504.jpeg

Provided that it is not too difficult the full fat headliner will come out and be replaced with the cup headliner.

We would like to change the climate control panel for the simple cup version but it looks like it could be far too complicated to do. The long term plan is to swap the engine from the cup to the full fat and the cup engine does not have an air conditioning compressor attached to it so there is no need to keep the climate control panel.

In the short term I would like to:
  1. Sort out the electrical problems with the BCM so that the car will start and function correctly;
  2. Using the money we get from selling the Recaros (they are being picked up in a few weeks) get the scrape on the drivers side rear panel repaired; and
  3. Get the cup modifications like the Akrapovic, ZPO, cage, Corbeau bucket seats transferred across.
 
Had a quick Google for that ECU Connection, looks like they work from home but the reviews are all positive! Fingers crossed it solves your problem. Headliner removal will probably end up with broken clips for the sun visors, it's not a difficult job but definitely do it before you move the cage across. The headliner is painful to remove with a cage in... Ask me how I know :sweatsmile:
 
I sat down with @EthanMenace last night and booked a few track days for the New Year even though the Clio is not working at the moment.

We had a few credits from the end of last year from cancelled days. I am looking forward to trying out Cadwell and Thuxton as I have not been there before.
  1. 21st January 2023 at Snetterton with MSV.
  2. 23rd February 2023 at Brands Hatch with Javelin.
  3. 18th March 2023 at Cadwell Park with MSV.
  4. 4th May 2023 at Thruxton with Track Obsession.
  5. 13th June 2023 at Donington Park with Track Obsession.
 
More progress with the full fat project. @EthanMenace is keen to de-fat the full fat so off came the full fat door cards and on went the cup door cards.

IMG_4516.jpeg

The inside of the car is being stripped out to make way for the cage, harnesses and bucket seats. We will keep the interior for the time being. I took the rear seats to the tip today together with the ISO fix bar. The standard front Renault seats are now sat in my lounge. They will either go to the tip or will go up for sale for a cheap price.

IMG_4518.jpeg

The horrible aftermarket aerial will be binned off and replaced with the mk 4 shark fin. We did think about swapping over the tailgate from the cup as it has got a GT spoiler on it but the full fat has got "gansta" style tinted windows so it would look a bit odd to have tinted rear windows and a non-tinted tailgate. I have always wanted to get a cup spoiler so now I have a suitable tailgate that is something I can sort out later in the year.

IMG_4519.jpeg

The headliner is out of the full fat and will be swapped with the cup headliner so that we can "delete" the middle interior light and try to complete the cup interior look. Unfortunately one of the sun visor clips did break when the headliner was removed. The one thing I do like about a full fat is the fact that the passenger side airbag is not a plastic cut out in the dash trim. The plastic used to rattle really badly on the old cup at about 1.000 revs when the car was sat idling.

IMG_4517.jpeg
 
@EthanMenace has been hard at work this week.

IMG_0014.jpeg

The cage has been moved to the new car and been bolted in with the spreader plates refreshed and sealed to the bottom of the car.

I actually assisted today as we drilled two holes to put eyelet bolts on the internal side of the exhaust tunnel for the harness lap belts.

The recoded, and hopefully working, BCM is due back next week.

In the meantime @EthanMenace has made a start on removing the Akrapovic. Once the exhaust is off the ZPO can come off the Cup.
 
@EthanMenace is a man possessed at the moment. He has been working on the Clio all weekend and was home early from work today.

When I got home tonight he had finished off the ZPO install.

IMG_4529.jpeg

The interior trim by the ZPO and handbrake has been swapped from the Cup to the new car as it was already cut to fit the ZPO, and it looked in better condition.

The full fat came with RCA audio connectors under the small flap in the centre console. The RCA connectors have been removed and replaced with a OEM USB port and a C-Box has been installed. Once the electrics in the car are working again we will be able to see if the USB port works as an external audio source for the OEM Renault radio, but more importantly provide power to anything that is plugged in to the port.

IMG_4530.jpeg

DPD tracking information suggests that the BCM will be delivered tomorrow. If the electrics and starting problem is not caused by a dodgy BCM then we will have to take a closer look at the electrics in the car.

The Akrapovic is now off of the Cup and is ready to go on to the new car.

The last change is the rear bumper from the full fat had a small mark under where the Clio writing on the boot lid is. It is about 2cm long and is a noticeable mark. The bumper also has some minor scratches on the drivers side near to the diffuser. @EthanMenace has swapped the bumper from the Cup to the new car to solve this minor aesthetic issue.

We now have a small pile of spare parts that are building up which we will need to sell on to try to recoup some of the cost of the new car.

Despite the new car being a full fat is has been tastefully converted to have a cup appearance and most cup internals apart from the climate control and cruise control (amongst other things).
 
All the recent work is down to @EthanMenace hard work.

Dare I ask, is this pictorial evidence of the well known phrase 'you bend it, you mend it' ? :poke:

Not really, I am genuinely rushed off my feet at work with no staff, and when I have got some time away from work I am either on call (so working again) or helping with domestic duties like walking the dog. Ethan has got far more time on his hands at the moment and seems to be determined to swap out of the the good running gear by 21st September 2022.
 
Last edited:
@EthanMenace fitted the recoded BCM but that has not cured the starting problem.

Before we swapped out the BCM the dashboard was showing an error message that said "Electrical fault". That message has now disappeared. Before we removed the old BCM the OBD2 port was dead and not transmitting any information. It is now working.

I wondered whether the key card or the key card reader could be knackered as the key card allows you to unlock the car by using the keycard buttons but it does not unlock when you use the proximity sensors on the full fat doors. I read online, in several places, that if the battery on the keycard is replaced or the battery on the car is disconnected you might have to start the engine for the keycard to work in handsfree mode. Also, when the keycard is put in to the slot there is no "keycard not detected" message on the dashboard and the steering lock does unlock. I think that the keycard is working fine. There is another keycard for the car but the bloke who we bought the car from has so far given me a few excuses why he cannot post it out to me.

So, if the keycard is working, and the BCM is working the electrical fault must be elsewhere. We did do a quick check of the fuses and relays before but now I think we will spend Saturday checking the UCP, the fuses, the relays and finally unwrap the wiring loom to see if there are any corroded wires or connectors running from the engine bay to the UCP, BCM or ECU. I am hoping that the UCP from the cup can just be swapped over to the new car.

When @EthanMenace swapped the suspension out he found that the passenger side drain hole was full up with mud and was more like a clay material that dirt and mud. This makes me think that some of the wiring and fuses could have been affected by water damage.

The one thing that confuses me about the engine not starting is that it was working when we bought the car, it suddenly stopped working, and after a period of time I managed to get it started again a few times before it refused to start again. I am hoping that the randomness of all of this is down to a corroded wire or connector.

I will connect the car up to CLIP at some point to double check that there are no issues with the TDC sensor and code out the airbag lights that we have on now the standard seats have been removed.
 
That’s got to be annoying, I hate chasing electrical faults. The TDC is easy to get to from underneath and only needs a 10mm socket/spanner to remove. It’s a 60 second job. Might be worth popping it out and measuring the resistance to rule it out if nothing else. It’s an easy start (no pun intended).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk