LiamP
Paid Member
Cheers, hopefully at the bottom right now, was close to setting fire to it tonight when I went to turn it over and found the starter solenoid has failed..
GW 200 CUP (clubsport->racecar->v2)
- Thread starter LiamP
- Start date
LiamP
Paid Member
So after I had calmed down I purchased a new starter from RPD, no idea why or how the solenoid has failed as it was working before I removed it.
Starter fitted (bitch of a job) and coolant topped up, bled as well as I could without running. 20L of VPower added to the tank, flushed a litre through to make sure it was all clean, no issues.
Millers competition running in oil added, plugs removed and I was ready to finally see if I had oil pressure. It felt like a lifetime but it was probably about 15 seconds before I got around 2.5 bar at the filter.
Double checked fluid levels, torqued down plugs, fuel line and crank sensor on and ready for the start..
Started instantly! Ran for about 10 minutes between 2-2.5K to get the cams bedded in, I will probably do another 10 but I need a helper so I can double check for leaks etc. However I can’t see any issues and oil pressure looks good, it won’t idle (I didn’t really give it a chance) which is probably to be expected with the cams/manifold.
Time to get booked in for the dyno…
For anyone in the same position this video is very good.
Starter fitted (bitch of a job) and coolant topped up, bled as well as I could without running. 20L of VPower added to the tank, flushed a litre through to make sure it was all clean, no issues.
Millers competition running in oil added, plugs removed and I was ready to finally see if I had oil pressure. It felt like a lifetime but it was probably about 15 seconds before I got around 2.5 bar at the filter.
Double checked fluid levels, torqued down plugs, fuel line and crank sensor on and ready for the start..
Started instantly! Ran for about 10 minutes between 2-2.5K to get the cams bedded in, I will probably do another 10 but I need a helper so I can double check for leaks etc. However I can’t see any issues and oil pressure looks good, it won’t idle (I didn’t really give it a chance) which is probably to be expected with the cams/manifold.
Time to get booked in for the dyno…
For anyone in the same position this video is very good.
Last edited:
Jakkehoop
Paid Member
just out of interest how did you get the oil temp and pressure displayed in the middle of the clocks like that it looks really good mate
LiamP
Paid Member
Cheers, this got lost as I was working on it the weekend before the crash.
Basically its a zadatech screen retrofitted in, took a bit of cutting and some thin sheets of CF to smarten it up but fits well.
I then have the temp / pressure sensors on a sandwich plate with the pressure off a pig tale to prevent vibrations.
Zada Tech
Zada Tech specialises in monitoring and controlling systems. This includes digital dashboards and custom made dashboard and instrument panels, with high quality rendering graphics, within the automotive industry. Internal combustion engine (ICE) cars and Electric Vehicles (EV).
zada-tech.com
LiamP
Paid Member
I don’t think the cup chassis has that option? Before I removed I did find a manual which listed all of the lights but I can’t find it now.
burrellbloke
Paid Member
I have had a 200 cup and a 200 full fat and neither had TPMS in them. I do like the use of the space.
Jakkehoop
Paid Member
Thank you for that i have just been looking at there website and found the oled screen that you can have 4 gauges on so might need to have a measure up and see if we could make one fit the the place of the original clock up on the dashCheers, this got lost as I was working on it the weekend before the crash.
View attachment 155276
View attachment 155277
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View attachment 155280
Basically its a zadatech screen retrofitted in, took a bit of cutting and some thin sheets of CF to smarten it up but fits well.
View attachment 155281
I then have the temp / pressure sensors on a sandwich plate with the pressure off a pig tale to prevent vibrations.
Zada Tech
Zada Tech specialises in monitoring and controlling systems. This includes digital dashboards and custom made dashboard and instrument panels, with high quality rendering graphics, within the automotive industry. Internal combustion engine (ICE) cars and Electric Vehicles (EV).
how did you mount yours the the bit of carbon ?
LiamP
Paid Member
Yeah not sure if 4 would fit, its literally strips of CF painted black and lots of araldite but tbh any thin bit of plastic just to hide the top and bottom would work.
LiamP
Paid Member
This car continues it’s role in trying to kill me, I am not giving up yet.
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LiamP
Paid Member
So after things going so well and dyno booked I found a leak, not massive but coolant drips from the head gasket. Exchanged a few messages with Alex and by all accounts a HG leak on an F4R is very rare which pointed to something being wrong. I went through what I had done and looked at the pictures I had taken when I remembered that I had used the new HG when checking the piston to valve, only torqued to 20Nm and I remember checking on the internet if this was ok. It looks like it wasn’t. I had also spent so long on working on the head I believe I had become a bit complacent on the surface finish.
Alex mentioned it might settle after some heat cycles, I slept on it and decided it wasn’t worth the risk. 3 hours later including a drive back to get my timing tools I had her stripped back to the block. I made the right decision as there was evidence of oil on the pistons and valves. Left her for a week as I needed a break.
Last night spent a few hours cleaning things back up with brake cleaner, the block surface is now as clean as I can get it and the head is currently being double checked and cleaned again by AMS. Luckily I didn’t need to remove the valves…
In this picture you can see the oil temp and pressure setup, basically a copy of the R3. New HG purchased and time to try again, it seems no amount of time and patience can overcome experience, lesson learnt.
Painted the metal work GDF did, very happy with how it all turned out, seating position is as close to the tunnel as possible which is a bonus.
Running out of things to waste time on now..
Alex mentioned it might settle after some heat cycles, I slept on it and decided it wasn’t worth the risk. 3 hours later including a drive back to get my timing tools I had her stripped back to the block. I made the right decision as there was evidence of oil on the pistons and valves. Left her for a week as I needed a break.
Last night spent a few hours cleaning things back up with brake cleaner, the block surface is now as clean as I can get it and the head is currently being double checked and cleaned again by AMS. Luckily I didn’t need to remove the valves…
In this picture you can see the oil temp and pressure setup, basically a copy of the R3. New HG purchased and time to try again, it seems no amount of time and patience can overcome experience, lesson learnt.
Painted the metal work GDF did, very happy with how it all turned out, seating position is as close to the tunnel as possible which is a bonus.
Running out of things to waste time on now..
LiamP
Paid Member
Picked up the head from AMS, they had taken less than 3 thou off to just clean it up, spent a while deburring and making sure it was as clean as possible.
New head gasket and bolts, used elring this time as the quality from Victor Reitz is questionable, the elring gasket is also slightly thicker at 0.7mm compressed to overcome the two skims. Put it all back together over about 5 hours, double checking everything and making sure the timing was bang on.
Started up and as far as I can see there are now no leaks, seems to want to now idle as well although I haven’t given it a chance whilst everything is still bedding in.
Of course the fan didn’t work as the resistor looked like this:
£15 for a replacement and it now fires up when I pull the coolant temp sensor.
Dumped the oil and pulled the sump off and gave it a good clean, probably overkill but you can see a nice mixture of assembly lube, fastener lube and cam lube. New sump seal, filter and 5.4ltrs of fresh competition oil for the break in on the dyno.
I then bolted on the frontend, dropped it on its wheels and torqued up everything to spec.
I then released that I hadn’t tested if it actually moves, it does.
New head gasket and bolts, used elring this time as the quality from Victor Reitz is questionable, the elring gasket is also slightly thicker at 0.7mm compressed to overcome the two skims. Put it all back together over about 5 hours, double checking everything and making sure the timing was bang on.
Started up and as far as I can see there are now no leaks, seems to want to now idle as well although I haven’t given it a chance whilst everything is still bedding in.
Of course the fan didn’t work as the resistor looked like this:
£15 for a replacement and it now fires up when I pull the coolant temp sensor.
Dumped the oil and pulled the sump off and gave it a good clean, probably overkill but you can see a nice mixture of assembly lube, fastener lube and cam lube. New sump seal, filter and 5.4ltrs of fresh competition oil for the break in on the dyno.
I then bolted on the frontend, dropped it on its wheels and torqued up everything to spec.
I then released that I hadn’t tested if it actually moves, it does.
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