av4625
Paid Member
Legend, thanks.
I was only wondering because when I get my decat I was wondering if I only need a straight pipe with a flared end or if it needs the lambda bung.
I was only wondering because when I get my decat I was wondering if I only need a straight pipe with a flared end or if it needs the lambda bung.
av4625
Paid Member
Had another good weekend out at the hills last weekend. Managed to get second on my last run which I was really happy with as the guy I got infront is quite quick! First place is a second and a half up the road with nearly double the power. Was aiming for 3rd, so delighted with second. This hill was Garron Point and it was the slippiest hill or circuit I have had the Clio on in dry conditions. Normally I cant get the back end to move at all, was a surprise (and scary) when it fired the tail out in first practice!
The last run was the closest I've come to binning the car as it pushed out wide on a deceiving right hander with a wall on the outside. I had committed and had the power on hoping the diff would pull me in, I couldn't lift or I would definitely have been in the wall. But it probably helped me make it such a fast run.
I think the Clio has to be the best handling car of its type, its just a pity a little extra power is so hard to get (and its probably a bit heavy).
The last run was the closest I've come to binning the car as it pushed out wide on a deceiving right hander with a wall on the outside. I had committed and had the power on hoping the diff would pull me in, I couldn't lift or I would definitely have been in the wall. But it probably helped me make it such a fast run.
I think the Clio has to be the best handling car of its type, its just a pity a little extra power is so hard to get (and its probably a bit heavy).
av4625
Paid Member
Was watching @burrellbloke's thread and he got some cup racer spec springs for his car. So I bit the bullet and done the same lol
I went for 450lbs front and 650lbs rear.
Front is about bang on for what the cup racers used, the rear is 75lbs-100lbs softer.
I'm a little worried that it will be too hard at the back for hillclimbs, but if thats the case I will use the 450lbs rear springs that I already have.
I think softening the front with the stiffer ARB will still be beneficial with either rear setup.
I went for 450lbs front and 650lbs rear.
Front is about bang on for what the cup racers used, the rear is 75lbs-100lbs softer.
I'm a little worried that it will be too hard at the back for hillclimbs, but if thats the case I will use the 450lbs rear springs that I already have.
I think softening the front with the stiffer ARB will still be beneficial with either rear setup.
av4625
Paid Member
I wanted to get the cup racer ARB and new springs on this winter along with the subframe mounts. Rear brake hard lines aren’t great so got some new hardline to make them, I got the stronger hard line than copper that has a plastic coating on it. I also noticed when I had it on a friends lift that the back of the rear foot well up near the fuel tank was a tiny bit rusty as well as the rear chassis legs and where the rear beam mounts. Its not too bad, but wanted to sort this now before it got bad.
I wont be able to get down to my parents house (where the car is) for 4 weeks, so my dad has started stripping the car. He sent me just a couple of pics.
He also has all brake lines off up to the ABS pump. Rear beam off. Diffuser off and rear exhaust section. Hes started getting the rust off and using rust converter and etch primer on some of the handy bits already.
When I get down we will get the fuel tank out and clean it all up and seal it again.
He got the bushes pressed in today.
Now we are this far I’m gonna get subframes, rear beam, and all brackets etc blasted and powder coated.
I wont be able to get down to my parents house (where the car is) for 4 weeks, so my dad has started stripping the car. He sent me just a couple of pics.
He also has all brake lines off up to the ABS pump. Rear beam off. Diffuser off and rear exhaust section. Hes started getting the rust off and using rust converter and etch primer on some of the handy bits already.
When I get down we will get the fuel tank out and clean it all up and seal it again.
He got the bushes pressed in today.
Now we are this far I’m gonna get subframes, rear beam, and all brackets etc blasted and powder coated.
av4625
Paid Member
I finally got a weekend where I could go down and work at the Clio. Got the whole back half undersealed now and got the springs changed on Gaz Golds and the subframe notched for the solid mounts. When I got the Gaz Golds 3 or 4 years ago it must be now, I put ACF-50 on them. They still look like new and have no signs of any corrosion at all, I was very surprised how good they where.
Some pics of the boot floor:
Some pics of the boot floor:
av4625
Paid Member
Had some time over the weekend to tidy up the front arms. Ideally I'd liked to have gotten these blasted and powder coated along with everything else but the bushes and balljoints are still good so decided to wire wheel, prime and paint to tidy them up for now. I have a spare set of arms that I will do properly when needed.
From this:
To this:
To this:
And finally to this:
I always forget how long the prep takes, all the wire wheeling, cleaning, scuffing, cleaning, masking, scuffing again after primer and cleaning again
From this:
To this:
To this:
And finally to this:
I always forget how long the prep takes, all the wire wheeling, cleaning, scuffing, cleaning, masking, scuffing again after primer and cleaning again
av4625
Paid Member
When stripping the car we noticed that the fuel line was badly rotted and needed replaced. You might have seen my other post about fuel lines that said that they were extortionate from Renault. I didn't have any fittings or hose to make an OEM style line, because I would have to buy that anyway I decided to to make an AN line for it. This is is the first time I have used AN fittings, they are pricey but very good quality. I got them from T7 designs.
I just need to wait until the car is back together to get the length.
I just need to wait until the car is back together to get the length.
av4625
Paid Member
Got the rear arches done today!
Primed and ready for seam sealer
Stone chipped
Also got the fuel tank back in and the rear heatshield fixed up and back on
Primed and ready for seam sealer
Stone chipped
Also got the fuel tank back in and the rear heatshield fixed up and back on
av4625
Paid Member
Got the bits blasted today and ready for powder coat.
R20BTG
Paid Member
Do the hillclimb regs allow you to strengthen that rear beam? If so, I'd highly recommend you sort it now while it's off and in that condition, prior to powder coat. Especially if you're running a true rear coilover:
www.pure-motorsport.co.uk
Clio 3 RS Rear Axle Stiffening Profile Kit
Clio 3 RS Rear Axle Stiffening Profile Kit
www.pure-motorsport.co.uk
av4625
Paid Member
Ahh damn. That would have been a good shout. Dad just dropped the stuff off today for powder coating. Not sure what the regs would say about that. Its “probably” fine now I'm in the modified class, but I’d need to checkDo the hillclimb regs allow you to strengthen that rear beam? If so, I'd highly recommend you sort it now while it's off and in that condition, prior to powder coat. Especially if you're running a true rear coilover:
Clio 3 RS Rear Axle Stiffening Profile Kit
Clio 3 RS Rear Axle Stiffening Profile Kit
av4625
Paid Member
Got a good amount done to the car today. Got the new AN fuel line fully made up, started the car and no leaks!
I then made up to new rear hardlines from the abs pump all the way back. Got some nice coated brake pipe, its stronger than copper, can't remember the name of it. I certainly wouldn't be asked to make brake lines for a show car but I'm pretty happy with it for my first go at replacing full lines. (they aren't fully finished in the pic, they just shoot out the back of the car lol)
Refitted the newly powder coated back axel, diffuser brackets, exhaust brackets, exhaust, heat shields and fuel tank. The powder coated parts look really nice!
Hoping to make up the new brake lines for the front tomorrow and get the subframe back on and get the front built back up. Had a nightmare with the nuts for the tops of the rear shocks on the gaz golds too. Typical that the simplest things turn out to be the hardest. Can see my issue here: https://clio197.net/threads/rear-gaz-gold-nut-size.67192/#post-758491
I then made up to new rear hardlines from the abs pump all the way back. Got some nice coated brake pipe, its stronger than copper, can't remember the name of it. I certainly wouldn't be asked to make brake lines for a show car but I'm pretty happy with it for my first go at replacing full lines. (they aren't fully finished in the pic, they just shoot out the back of the car lol)
Refitted the newly powder coated back axel, diffuser brackets, exhaust brackets, exhaust, heat shields and fuel tank. The powder coated parts look really nice!
Hoping to make up the new brake lines for the front tomorrow and get the subframe back on and get the front built back up. Had a nightmare with the nuts for the tops of the rear shocks on the gaz golds too. Typical that the simplest things turn out to be the hardest. Can see my issue here: https://clio197.net/threads/rear-gaz-gold-nut-size.67192/#post-758491
av4625
Paid Member
Got the front brake lines routed on Sunday. Also got the subframe back in with the rack and cup racer ARB and all the drop links, track rod ends and anti rotation links on.
I have had the subframe out and in loads of times when on axel stands and have gotten quite quick at doing it. Struggled with it a bit yesterday. Was super awkward getting the balljoint on the arm into EE bracket that was hanging from the shock when the subframe was bolted in. Had to lower the subframe again. I think the cup racer EE brackets make this even harder as they are a bit longer/lower. Haven't done it loads with these EE brackets. I think that, the weight and not wanting to scratch it makes it harder lol.
Can anyone tell me what that brace thing is that goes behind the subframe? Do I need it? Can’t see how it would be stronger than the subframe to brace it. But I could be wrong.
I also think I have the answer to the rear shock nuts. They are supposedly 7/16 UNF, got some ordered.
I have had the subframe out and in loads of times when on axel stands and have gotten quite quick at doing it. Struggled with it a bit yesterday. Was super awkward getting the balljoint on the arm into EE bracket that was hanging from the shock when the subframe was bolted in. Had to lower the subframe again. I think the cup racer EE brackets make this even harder as they are a bit longer/lower. Haven't done it loads with these EE brackets. I think that, the weight and not wanting to scratch it makes it harder lol.
Can anyone tell me what that brace thing is that goes behind the subframe? Do I need it? Can’t see how it would be stronger than the subframe to brace it. But I could be wrong.
I also think I have the answer to the rear shock nuts. They are supposedly 7/16 UNF, got some ordered.
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I no longer run that brace or the aluminium cup racer X brace, Was on track for a fair amount last year and no issues. I use a cup racer subframe so it has the solid mounts etc, Not done any amount of road miles though as its not currently MOT'd but have checked the bolts and they were still tight after the event.
av4625
Paid Member
Thats good to know, I have just fitted the solid mounts.
I have never had that steel rectangle panel that is meant to brace the front of the subframe and never seen an issue even without the solid mounts.
I cant see what the back brace/plate does, maybe the under tray clipped to it? I never had an under tray either. Might remove this plate too.
nor me, was chatting with a mate one night and we couldn't figure out what the additional bracing was really doing so got rid and all fine. I did buy high tensile bolts and made sure everything was torqued up and checked them but all fine so far and I forgot I did use it on the road for a few months before the MOT ran out, I've no concerns at this point.
I don't run an undertray either, no benefit at the speeds I'm reaching, better to just save weight.
I don't run an undertray either, no benefit at the speeds I'm reaching, better to just save weight.
