av4625
Paid Member
Legend, thanks.
I was only wondering because when I get my decat I was wondering if I only need a straight pipe with a flared end or if it needs the lambda bung.
I was only wondering because when I get my decat I was wondering if I only need a straight pipe with a flared end or if it needs the lambda bung.
av4625
Paid Member
Had another good weekend out at the hills last weekend. Managed to get second on my last run which I was really happy with as the guy I got infront is quite quick! First place is a second and a half up the road with nearly double the power. Was aiming for 3rd, so delighted with second. This hill was Garron Point and it was the slippiest hill or circuit I have had the Clio on in dry conditions. Normally I cant get the back end to move at all, was a surprise (and scary) when it fired the tail out in first practice!
The last run was the closest I've come to binning the car as it pushed out wide on a deceiving right hander with a wall on the outside. I had committed and had the power on hoping the diff would pull me in, I couldn't lift or I would definitely have been in the wall. But it probably helped me make it such a fast run.
I think the Clio has to be the best handling car of its type, its just a pity a little extra power is so hard to get (and its probably a bit heavy).
The last run was the closest I've come to binning the car as it pushed out wide on a deceiving right hander with a wall on the outside. I had committed and had the power on hoping the diff would pull me in, I couldn't lift or I would definitely have been in the wall. But it probably helped me make it such a fast run.
I think the Clio has to be the best handling car of its type, its just a pity a little extra power is so hard to get (and its probably a bit heavy).
av4625
Paid Member
Was watching @burrellbloke's thread and he got some cup racer spec springs for his car. So I bit the bullet and done the same lol
I went for 450lbs front and 650lbs rear.
Front is about bang on for what the cup racers used, the rear is 75lbs-100lbs softer.
I'm a little worried that it will be too hard at the back for hillclimbs, but if thats the case I will use the 450lbs rear springs that I already have.
I think softening the front with the stiffer ARB will still be beneficial with either rear setup.
I went for 450lbs front and 650lbs rear.
Front is about bang on for what the cup racers used, the rear is 75lbs-100lbs softer.
I'm a little worried that it will be too hard at the back for hillclimbs, but if thats the case I will use the 450lbs rear springs that I already have.
I think softening the front with the stiffer ARB will still be beneficial with either rear setup.
av4625
Paid Member
I wanted to get the cup racer ARB and new springs on this winter along with the subframe mounts. Rear brake hard lines aren’t great so got some new hardline to make them, I got the stronger hard line than copper that has a plastic coating on it. I also noticed when I had it on a friends lift that the back of the rear foot well up near the fuel tank was a tiny bit rusty as well as the rear chassis legs and where the rear beam mounts. Its not too bad, but wanted to sort this now before it got bad.
I wont be able to get down to my parents house (where the car is) for 4 weeks, so my dad has started stripping the car. He sent me just a couple of pics.
He also has all brake lines off up to the ABS pump. Rear beam off. Diffuser off and rear exhaust section. Hes started getting the rust off and using rust converter and etch primer on some of the handy bits already.
When I get down we will get the fuel tank out and clean it all up and seal it again.
He got the bushes pressed in today.
Now we are this far I’m gonna get subframes, rear beam, and all brackets etc blasted and powder coated.
I wont be able to get down to my parents house (where the car is) for 4 weeks, so my dad has started stripping the car. He sent me just a couple of pics.
He also has all brake lines off up to the ABS pump. Rear beam off. Diffuser off and rear exhaust section. Hes started getting the rust off and using rust converter and etch primer on some of the handy bits already.
When I get down we will get the fuel tank out and clean it all up and seal it again.
He got the bushes pressed in today.
Now we are this far I’m gonna get subframes, rear beam, and all brackets etc blasted and powder coated.
av4625
Paid Member
I finally got a weekend where I could go down and work at the Clio. Got the whole back half undersealed now and got the springs changed on Gaz Golds and the subframe notched for the solid mounts. When I got the Gaz Golds 3 or 4 years ago it must be now, I put ACF-50 on them. They still look like new and have no signs of any corrosion at all, I was very surprised how good they where.
Some pics of the boot floor:
Some pics of the boot floor:
av4625
Paid Member
Had some time over the weekend to tidy up the front arms. Ideally I'd liked to have gotten these blasted and powder coated along with everything else but the bushes and balljoints are still good so decided to wire wheel, prime and paint to tidy them up for now. I have a spare set of arms that I will do properly when needed.
From this:
To this:
To this:
And finally to this:
I always forget how long the prep takes, all the wire wheeling, cleaning, scuffing, cleaning, masking, scuffing again after primer and cleaning again
From this:
To this:
To this:
And finally to this:
I always forget how long the prep takes, all the wire wheeling, cleaning, scuffing, cleaning, masking, scuffing again after primer and cleaning again
