@LiamP What spring rates are you running on your ASTs?
80/120 so basically cup racer.

I have mentioned this in my thread but the reason Gaz and others recommend a stiffer front is to combat the terrible roll centre you get when you lower these cars. The stiffer front stop the excessive roll you get once the front wishbones are pointing up. Now you have fixed (raised) the roll centre your front is too stiff relative to your now shorter roll moment exaggerated with the stiffer ARB.


I imagine the gaz springs are an off the shelf size so you could probably get them cheaper elsewhere.
 


@av4625 has done the research already it seems!
 


@av4625 has done the research already it seems!
Yea done a bit of research on gaz spring rates. I don’t think the rears are as common, they are a bit thinner to fit between the shock and the body, but I could be corrected on that. I think the last time I looked you can get gaz springs about £50 each and they seem to be cheaper when not buying them from gaz strangely.

I built my car up slowly over the years and got gaz to spec the coilovers back in the day as I didn’t know any better. I think my springs are 700 front and 450 rear. The car feels fine on them and I can beat or be much closer than I should be to much faster cars but the rear is just so gripped up while running no rear toe in. I am now running cup racer geo. I have the anti rollbar in the shed but not fitted yet as I haven’t bought the cup racer spec springs. Gaz say there is enough adjustment in the shocks to make the drastic change to cup racer spec springs.

I used to use the car only for sprints on circuits, if this was still the case I’d have bought the springs already and fitted the ARB, I think it would make the car, it would rotate so much better.

The one thing holding me back is I only use it for hillclimbs now, i use my M3 for sprints. I’m a bit worried the rear cup racer spec springs would be too hard for the road. I think the fronts would be fine though, but didn’t want to just fit the fronts incase it upset the balance. I might still try the cup racer spec springs all round though.

I’m no expert by any means, but if you have any questions I’ll try my best to answer.
 
Gaz have come back to me and have said they can supply the springs for £34 plus VAT each. They have also confirmed that the dampers would not need to be revalved.

It looks like it is cheap enough to give it a go and see how it performs. If it is awful we can always revert to the original set up or try some springs with slightly different spring rates.
 
You boys not just given in yet and turn it into full track slag..

Surely it’s going to be too stiff / awful for road driving

I know you’re both trying to get close to a cup racer spec but how’s weight distribution going to effect you as interior is still there and only the half cage. Surely another factor in just throwing some springs on ?
 
Gaz have come back to me and have said they can supply the springs for £34 plus VAT each. They have also confirmed that the dampers would not need to be revalved.

It looks like it is cheap enough to give it a go and see how it performs. If it is awful we can always revert to the original set up or try some springs with slightly different spring rates.
You email them for that price? The gaz website is £140 (including vat) a pair!! I’ll just order them at that price.
What are you going for? 450f 650r?
enquiries@gazshocks.com This email by any chance?

You boys not just given in yet and turn it into full track slag..

Surely it’s going to be too stiff / awful for road driving

I know you’re both trying to get close to a cup racer spec but how’s weight distribution going to effect you as interior is still there and only the half cage. Surely another factor in just throwing some springs on ?
Mine is full track car now with 1 seat, when I mentioned being hard for the road above I just meant hillclimbs on the road, which is obviously bumpier than a circuit.
 
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You email them for that price? The gaz website is £140 (including vat) a pair!! I’ll just order them at that price.
What are you going for? 450f 650r?
enquiries@gazshocks.com This email by any chance?


Mine is full track car now with 1 seat, when I mentioned being hard for the road above I just meant hillclimbs on the road, which is obviously bumpier than a circuit.

That’s the one
 
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You boys not just given in yet and turn it into full track slag..

Surely it’s going to be too stiff / awful for road driving

I know you’re both trying to get close to a cup racer spec but how’s weight distribution going to effect you as interior is still there and only the half cage. Surely another factor in just throwing some springs on ?

At this point road driving is only so it can be transported to wherever it needs to go! We don’t have a tow car/trailer and don’t think we will anytime soon

Not sure how much the interior weighs but to be honest as it’s still has to be driven to trackdays (and 8hrs to the Nurburgring hopefully) I think the small amount of noise dampening and comfort it provides is worth it over losing maybe 80kg
 
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You boys not just given in yet and turn it into full track slag..

Surely it’s going to be too stiff / awful for road driving

I know you’re both trying to get close to a cup racer spec but how’s weight distribution going to effect you as interior is still there and only the half cage. Surely another factor in just throwing some springs on ?
The front feels too stiff now so going for spring rates which are softer than we have on the Gaz Golds it will hopefully make the front of the car work better with the EE brackets, bump steer pack and Cup Racer ARB etc., etc.

It is the back end that could become more lively. If it is too lively at the rear then we may need a plan B.

The car is deifnately a fatty when there are two of us going round a track in it. At somewhere like Snetterton if one of us gets out the car is about 3 seconds a lap faster. It could do with the interior coming out but @EthanMenace is resisting the urge to strip it. Our car weighed in at 1,230kgs the last time it was weighed. I think a Cup Racer should be about 1,160kgs or thereabouts?

I would like a full cage, but that requires us to save money rather than spending it. At the moment I am more inclined to book another trip to the Ring for next year and have a few more track days before the end of the year.

But a everyone here knows I say I won't do something and then go and do it.
 
You email them for that price? The gaz website is £140 (including vat) a pair!! I’ll just order them at that price.
They have sent me an e-mail saying they are £34 plus VAT plus shipping each. When the order goes through I will let you know what they charge me.
 
Our car weighed in at 1,230kgs the last time it was weighed
Are you sure it was that little? I thought it was over 1400 with a full tank and a driver

edit:
You’re right, this was it weighed without a driver and a full tank of fuel. Well over 1400kg with us both in it though!

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They have sent me an e-mail saying they are £34 plus VAT plus shipping each. When the order goes through I will let you know what they charge me.
What spring rates did you decide to go with?
Are you sure it was that little? I thought it was over 1400 with a full tank and a driver
Out of interest with the weights, mine was 1260kg with half a tank of fuel and I was 76.5kg. I have since stripped it completely and removed a seat but gone from half cage to full cage. Would love to weigh it again.
 
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After e-mailing Gaz and confirming they had a set of 80nm front springs and 100nm rear springs in stock @EthanMenace did the 20 minute journey from home and collected them today.

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They were £35 plus VAT per spring.

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So, whilst I am cruising around the NC500 I will let Ethan do the hard work and get the new springs on the car over the bank holiday weekend.

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After e-mailing Gaz and confirming they had a set of 80nm front springs and 100nm rear springs in stock @EthanMenace did the 20 minute journey from home and collected them today.

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They were £35 plus VAT per spring.

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So, whilst I am cruising around the NC500 I will let Ethan do the hard work and get the new springs on the car over the bank holiday weekend.

View attachment 158289
Nice! I think I will fire them an email to get some.

I was also thinking of 450lbs front, how did you decide on rears? I was thinking of 650lbs rear which is still softer than cup racers, but maybe thats a bit crazy?
 
Nice! I think I will fire them an email to get some.

I was also thinking of 450lbs front, how did you decide on rears? I was thinking of 650lbs rear which is still softer than cup racers, but maybe thats a bit crazy?
It was sort of plucked from the air. Cup racer spec 130nm seemed like it might be too much for us to handle! So we went stiffer than current rears but not all the way.
 
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It was sort of plucked from the air. Cup racer spec 130nm seemed like it might be too much for us to handle! So we went stiffer than current rears but not all the way.
Sounds exactly how I was plucking 650 lol! The I think cup racer is 750 or somewhere about there, sounded a bit mad
 
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@EthanMenace has been busy today. Both the front and rear suspension was removed today in order to change over the springs.

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The rears have gone from 62nm springs to 100nm springs.

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The front have been softened up from 105nm to 80nm

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Whilst the front dampers were off Ethan installed the Cup Racer rack spacers that we had purchased a few months ago to prevent the wheels when on full lock catching on the Gaz Gold damper adjuster.

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The rack spacer is the shiny silver metallic ring in the photo.

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With the rack stop on there is no longer a clearance issue.

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Ethan says that the rack spacers make a noticeable difference in how much wheel travel there is and is now reduced quite a bit.

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Despite Ethan taking a test drive the real test for the springs will not come until the end of next month when we are off to Snetterton on 26th September 2024. He says that there is noticeable difference in the change of spring rates but there is only so much you can do on normal roads with the car.
 
We are going to refurb and build up a set of hubs as a bit of a winter project. We have got a spare set of hubs from the car we acquired in November 2022. It is the kind of project that can be done in the shed over winter without having to leave the car on axle stands whilst the work is done.

@EthanMenace has already disassembled them and removed the swivel/ball joints from the hubs.

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The plan is to:
  1. Clean up the hubs to remove 10 years or more of grime
  2. Replace the 4 swivels with some uprated Rene Dizfar items
  3. Replace the front wheel bearings with some SNR bearings (which are the OEM bearings but in different packaging to avoid the Renault tax)
  4. Possibly replace the hubs that the wheels bolt on to unless they can be cleaned up.
The wishbones had new ball joints put on them this year. The existing hubs that are already on the car had their ball joints done in 2020 and do not seem to be worn out so far. But after replacing the subframe, putting on the EE brackets and replacing the dirveshafts it seems like a good idea to freshen up the hubs as well.

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It is a bit of a ball ache to use fine wire wool and some Autosol metal polish to get most of the grime off of the metal parts. It is doing an okay job.

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But if anyone can recommend a better way to clean up the metal parts please let me know? The dream would be to have large container where I can drop in the parts and leave them to soak in a Bilt and Hamber type product to eat the dirt.
 
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