Ren-O-Tec in Chelmsford have installed the PowerFlex ream bushes now. It made a change paying someone to do the work rather than spending hours on the drive trying to work out the best way to change parts over. After I drove home in some wet weather I took a photo.

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The rear beam is a bit crusty but most of the crust is dirt. When a shim was put on the right rear stub axle most of the dirt came off a small patch on the rear beam with a stiff brush to reveal black paint and some rust scabs. When we are enjoying some nice warm weather I might have a go at the rear beam with a drill and a wire brush attachment to attack most of the dirt and rust scabs, treat it with something like Bilt Hamber Hydrate then give it a coat of hand painted black Hammerite.

So, the rear end of the Clio is now fully polybushed. To be honest I cannot really notice a difference but that is probably because the rear suspension was changed and it still all feels pretty stiff.

I had planned to put the coilover socks on last weekend but it turned out that I ordered the wrong size. The springs on Bilstein B14s are wider than most coilover springs and are probably similar in size to the original cup springs that came off of the car. Barry from coilover-covers was extremely good and offered me a refund on the original coilover socks and then made me up a custom size set which have already been delivered.
 
I managed to find some time to tinker with the Clio today. I had ordered a bag of 50 arch liner clips from eBay for £13 to replace some of the knackered or missing clips from under my front arches. 50 Might be a little bit excessive but they are so easy to break it made sense to buy a big bag.

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I put on the bigger coilover socks that were delivered in the week. I took off the front wheels and gave the coilover threads a good scrub with a stiff brush then sprayed lots of ACF50 all over the coilovers. It is surprising how much road dirt, salt and grime sticks to the coilovers.

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The next project to tackle is to get the upper inlet manifold, lower inlet manifold and throttle body port matched and gas flowed. I was able to exchange messages with Max from MS Custom Engineering today who told me that he is so busy with work he has worked booked in for the next month. I have already been able to buy spare manifolds and a throttle body so I can send them to Max without there being any pressure of time to get them back.

I am not a mechanic, or an engineer, but if my research is right the port matching process should allow the car to breathe a bit easier and may even add a few BHP in terms of power. Max does offer a service to enlarge throttle bodies but I do not see that the Clio will get any advantage from a larger throttle body - it is not like I am running a forged engine with a massive power.

Before I send off the parts to be worked on I need to decide what colour to have the manifolds and throttle body powder coated.

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For me the three possible options are black.

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Anthracite, with a Renault badge with yellow writing.

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Or liquid yellow with a black badge.

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I think that black manifolds will just look lost amongst the other black parts in the engine bay like the induction kit and battery box. I am a big fan of liquid yellow and have a liquid yellow Megane. The Clio has other yellow/liquid yellow accents in the car such as dash trim, seat belts and door bullets. Anthracite seems to be the safe choice but boring choice.
 
Anthracite. Do you know if the car needs to be remapped after fitting a port matched and gas flowed intake manifold?
 
It looks like anthracite is a popular colour on this forum.

Someone did say to me earlier today that liquid yellow manifolds might make it look a bit "Max Power".
 
Anthracite. Do you know if the car needs to be remapped after fitting a port matched and gas flowed intake manifold?

To get any benefit from the port you will need a map really.
You could run it without a map of course, but does defeat the purpose.
Combined with a V6 box would make some decent numbers I'd assume.
 
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To get any benefit from the port you will need a map really.
You could run it without a map of course, but does defeat the purpose.
Combined with a V6 box would make some decent numbers I'd assume.

I only had it mapped in October 2020. Oh well, it looks like you have just added a V6 airbox to my ever growing wish list of parts.
 
Shouldn’t cost you too much to get the map tweaked. I know it doesn’t at efi....

I’m still yet to get mine mapped after DIYing mine and fitting the V6 box, but it seems faster.
 
I only had it mapped in October 2020. Oh well, it looks like you have just added a V6 airbox to my ever growing wish list of parts.

Yeah like Nath said, you don't have to, but to get most out of it it needs a map.
If you go V6 box, maybe the TB bored out too, the ported inlets and a map, would be nice amount achieved.
 
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I am not convinced on the science behind enlarged throttle bodies. I don’t understand how a R26 has a 35mm throttle body and a Megane 225 has a 40mm throttle body but they both feed more powerful engines.
 
I just had my car remapped in November and it’s very strong. Wouldn’t the port matching and gas flowing just smooth things out? Is it worth doing? I’ve got a carbon ITG maxogen induction kit which is very good.
 
I looked at Raptors before and after when doing the intake manifold and he made small gains in the mid range which is good but car could just be healthier on that day of runs
 
The inlets and throttle body are with Max at MS Custom Engineering now. @EthanMenace and I finally agreed on anthracite with a black badge and yellow Renault Sport text on it.

The sun was out today so I took the Clio for a drive to work down the back roads for a bit of a blast. On the way home it was still sunny and a Seat Leon Cupra R soon filled up my rear view mirror. My window was open and all I could hear above the pops and gurgles from the Akra was the dump valve of the Leon behind me. The Leon driver was really quite keen to get past but my trusty Clio showed its class through the bends and kept in front.
 
Cracking car you guys are building. When you were changing the brake fluid you should have also bled the clutch, most people overlook this job.
 
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