burrellbloke
Paid Member
I have seen a few cars in Hot Wheels packets on Instagram and got one done for the Clio.
Glacier White 200 Cup
- Thread starter burrellbloke
- Start date
Jakkehoop
Paid Member
burrellbloke
Paid Member
burrellbloke
Paid Member
I have a habit of saying that I am not going to do something and then doing exactly what I said that I would not do.
Ethan has booked the Clio on to a MSV track day at Snetterton on 12th October 2023. He booked it and not me so maybe I have an excuse this time?
RSRowe
Paid Member
I’d very much like to do Snetterton in the Megane. I just doubt I’m gonna have it fixed for then 
burrellbloke
Paid Member
It is a probably a good track to be able to use the bigger power of the Megane.I’d very much like to do Snetterton in the Megane. I just doubt I’m gonna have it fixed for then
I thought you only need a set of rear brake pads?
RSRowe
Paid Member
Yeah exactly.
I probably do. But I can fully see the disc being shagged now, and it would be sensible to get the callipers refurbed at the same time.
I probably do. But I can fully see the disc being shagged now, and it would be sensible to get the callipers refurbed at the same time.
burrellbloke
Paid Member
RSRowe
Paid Member
I’m doing Donington 5th November. Sunday. Come down and run rings round me!I’d very much like to do Snetterton in the Megane. I just doubt I’m gonna have it fixed for then
burrellbloke
Paid Member
I have been busy editing the video footage from Oulton Park and uploading it to YouTube.
We have now done quite a few track days and you would think that I have things worked out well to video track sessions and use the data collected - but no it is a mess.
I have a coupe of GoPros, one for the front and one for the rear. These work well and only rarely do I forget to turn the camera on. I have a third GoPro which now comes along to track days as spare camera incase there are any issues with SD cards or the camera just decides not to work. I always have a few spare batteries but the cameras are powered from cables in to the 12v socket so when the engine is running the camera batteries get charged. The video part of things is all good.
I use Race Render to put the video and the other data together. To make the videos more interesting it is always nice to see some useful data, that way you can get an idea of what speed the car is doing, and whether it is accelerating or braking. This is the issue that has been bugging me for the past year.
I started out recording track days with a GoPro and Harry's Lap Timer on my phone. It worked well when it worked but every now and then Harry's Lap Timer would crap out and miss laps, or a session, or the GPS would go wild and not record the car moving round the track. I had used a cheap OBD2 adapter to get some data from the car with this set up. I thought I would try something else as this set up was not working.
Then I found out about RaceBox and bought a RaceBox mini. This is a standalone GPS box that records the GPS data from a track session and is super accurate, but it does not interface with car data available from the OBD2 port. RaceBox is great and I am now used to comparing track sessions that I do with Ethan on the RaceBox phone app to see where he has braked or carried more speed through corners. It is a really useful gadget with a very good app. The downside to the RaceBox hardware and app is that it does not pull any data from the car and cannot interface with the OBD2 port.
When RaceBox brought out some new hardware I bought their RaceBox Mini S. It is a box that you connect to with your phone and tell it to record track sessions, then you disconnect and it will just keep recording when it notices you are on track. You do not need to prompt it to record each time you go out and it is sensible enough to know when you are just sat in the paddock. It can record up to 2 hours worth of track time - time in the paddock does not count towards this 2 hour time limit. So after a few sessions I can use the phone app to connect to it and download the track data, tell it to watch out for any more track sessions, then disconnect from the RaceBox Mini S. The phone does not need to be connected to the RaceBox Mini S all the time.
I got a more expensive OBD2 earlier this year, a OBDLinkMX+. It is a bluetooth device that pulls data from the car's CAN network. The CAN network is limited but can provide essential data like speed, RPM, throttle position, selected gears. The CAN network does not provide any brake pedal data. I thought that a great track day set up would be:
Some of the footage from Oulton Park has the video, GPS data and some of the OBD2 car data. Most of the footage is just video and GPS data. This is Ethan's best session in the car where you can see the GPS data but not any of the OBD2 data.
Track days are about having fun, but after the track day has ended I do like to look at the data.
I looked at the Track Addict app I do not think that it works with my OBD2 dongle. I could look at RaceChrono.
I have looked at some solutions but I think I might just use a really old app called DashCommand to pull the data from the CAN network, use the RaceBox Mini S to record the GPS data and keep on using the trusty GoPros for the video. DashCommand is very old but it can read a lot of data from the car including coolant temperature, inlet temperature in addition to gear selected, RPM.
With another trip to Snetterton in two weeks I will see if DashCommand is an improvement over Harry's Lap Timer.
We have now done quite a few track days and you would think that I have things worked out well to video track sessions and use the data collected - but no it is a mess.
I have a coupe of GoPros, one for the front and one for the rear. These work well and only rarely do I forget to turn the camera on. I have a third GoPro which now comes along to track days as spare camera incase there are any issues with SD cards or the camera just decides not to work. I always have a few spare batteries but the cameras are powered from cables in to the 12v socket so when the engine is running the camera batteries get charged. The video part of things is all good.
I use Race Render to put the video and the other data together. To make the videos more interesting it is always nice to see some useful data, that way you can get an idea of what speed the car is doing, and whether it is accelerating or braking. This is the issue that has been bugging me for the past year.
I started out recording track days with a GoPro and Harry's Lap Timer on my phone. It worked well when it worked but every now and then Harry's Lap Timer would crap out and miss laps, or a session, or the GPS would go wild and not record the car moving round the track. I had used a cheap OBD2 adapter to get some data from the car with this set up. I thought I would try something else as this set up was not working.
Then I found out about RaceBox and bought a RaceBox mini. This is a standalone GPS box that records the GPS data from a track session and is super accurate, but it does not interface with car data available from the OBD2 port. RaceBox is great and I am now used to comparing track sessions that I do with Ethan on the RaceBox phone app to see where he has braked or carried more speed through corners. It is a really useful gadget with a very good app. The downside to the RaceBox hardware and app is that it does not pull any data from the car and cannot interface with the OBD2 port.
When RaceBox brought out some new hardware I bought their RaceBox Mini S. It is a box that you connect to with your phone and tell it to record track sessions, then you disconnect and it will just keep recording when it notices you are on track. You do not need to prompt it to record each time you go out and it is sensible enough to know when you are just sat in the paddock. It can record up to 2 hours worth of track time - time in the paddock does not count towards this 2 hour time limit. So after a few sessions I can use the phone app to connect to it and download the track data, tell it to watch out for any more track sessions, then disconnect from the RaceBox Mini S. The phone does not need to be connected to the RaceBox Mini S all the time.
I got a more expensive OBD2 earlier this year, a OBDLinkMX+. It is a bluetooth device that pulls data from the car's CAN network. The CAN network is limited but can provide essential data like speed, RPM, throttle position, selected gears. The CAN network does not provide any brake pedal data. I thought that a great track day set up would be:
- Use the RaceBox Mini S to record the GPS data of each track session
- Use the RaceBox Mini to connect to Harry's Lap Timer for a fast and accurate GPS reading, in addition to using Harry's Lap Timer to read the OBD2 data from the CAN network
- Use the GoPro cameras to record the video
Some of the footage from Oulton Park has the video, GPS data and some of the OBD2 car data. Most of the footage is just video and GPS data. This is Ethan's best session in the car where you can see the GPS data but not any of the OBD2 data.
Track days are about having fun, but after the track day has ended I do like to look at the data.
I looked at the Track Addict app I do not think that it works with my OBD2 dongle. I could look at RaceChrono.
I have looked at some solutions but I think I might just use a really old app called DashCommand to pull the data from the CAN network, use the RaceBox Mini S to record the GPS data and keep on using the trusty GoPros for the video. DashCommand is very old but it can read a lot of data from the car including coolant temperature, inlet temperature in addition to gear selected, RPM.
With another trip to Snetterton in two weeks I will see if DashCommand is an improvement over Harry's Lap Timer.
S24nrc
Paid Member
Track addict is great as a standalone solution but never managed to get the OBD working on it. I'm hoping I can build something into the Raspberry Pi I have powering an Android Auto setup that I have in the dashboard.
Would love a Garmin Catalyst, but its useless the 360 days a year I don't track the car.
Would love a Garmin Catalyst, but its useless the 360 days a year I don't track the car.
burrellbloke
Paid Member
I use a CarPlay app called OnTrack in my Yaris that can read data from a OBD port and display basic information on the screen. It has details like revs, speed, temperatures. It is a shame that Apple and Android won't let developers publish something to run on CarPlay or Android Auto that pulls data from the OBD port and displays it in a track day type app, together with feedback on lap times.
A Catalyst would be great for looking instantly at video and GPS data - but it is expensive and I have other car parts to buy.
burrellbloke
Paid Member
We tackled a lighting issue that we have had for a considerable time today. The drivers side rear tail light had not worked for months and neither had the drivers side front side light. The non-functioning bulbs had not really caused a problem as the car was not being driven in the dark. The MOT is due in November so I thought it would be a good idea to sort out the lights otherwise the car will definitely fail the MOT.
After doing a bit of internet searching I found a post on this site suggesting that a fuse in the UPC was responsible for the issue. What is odd is that the brake light from the same bulb at the rear worked, but the side light did not. We had already tried to replace the bulbs. I got the Workshop manual up on my laptop and then we found the fuse responsible.
A small 10 amp blade fuse had popped.
When the blade fuse had been replaced the tail light and side light were working again.
The next task was to install a bonnet strut that @EthanMenace had purchased from Dark Ice Designs.
The install was very easy. You have to remove a bolt that connects the slam panel to the wing and replace it with the silver bolt that the strut sits on top of. The other end of the strut is held on with a part that bolts on to the existing hole for the old bonnet arm. The old mechanism is easy to pull out from the wing.
Ethan then got under the car and put on some new exhaust clamps. He had tightened up the old exhaust clamps before we went to Oulton as the exhaust was knocking on the rear beam. You can see the Akrapovic peeking out from under the car in this photo from Oulton.
The exhaust seems to twist at a join closer to the manifold and the elbow then droops. Hopefully these will do the trick.
He put a new clamp on the rear near to the back box as well.
Ethan had also purchased some hand brake return springs for the rear calipers.
Since installing the springs Alex from AW Motorsport has told me that neither RS Clios or Meganes that share these calipers are installed or need to return springs. The springs can't hurt and may prevent any issues if the calipers ever get a bit crusty in the future.
After doing a bit of internet searching I found a post on this site suggesting that a fuse in the UPC was responsible for the issue. What is odd is that the brake light from the same bulb at the rear worked, but the side light did not. We had already tried to replace the bulbs. I got the Workshop manual up on my laptop and then we found the fuse responsible.
A small 10 amp blade fuse had popped.
When the blade fuse had been replaced the tail light and side light were working again.
The next task was to install a bonnet strut that @EthanMenace had purchased from Dark Ice Designs.
The install was very easy. You have to remove a bolt that connects the slam panel to the wing and replace it with the silver bolt that the strut sits on top of. The other end of the strut is held on with a part that bolts on to the existing hole for the old bonnet arm. The old mechanism is easy to pull out from the wing.
Ethan then got under the car and put on some new exhaust clamps. He had tightened up the old exhaust clamps before we went to Oulton as the exhaust was knocking on the rear beam. You can see the Akrapovic peeking out from under the car in this photo from Oulton.
The exhaust seems to twist at a join closer to the manifold and the elbow then droops. Hopefully these will do the trick.
He put a new clamp on the rear near to the back box as well.
Ethan had also purchased some hand brake return springs for the rear calipers.
Since installing the springs Alex from AW Motorsport has told me that neither RS Clios or Meganes that share these calipers are installed or need to return springs. The springs can't hurt and may prevent any issues if the calipers ever get a bit crusty in the future.
Mardgee
Paid Member
I had the same dilemma with the calliper springs. One side had one and the other didn’t. 100% can’t hurt.
Dave W
Paid Member
Actually I’m afraid it can. My rear calipers were starting to occasionally jam the handbrake so I bought some springs. Fitted one, went to the other side of the car to do the other and just happened to look back over to see the caliper dripping brake fluid. It had blown a seal by the strength on the spring.
Two calipers off, repainted and refurbed. What I thought would be a cheap fix turned out not to be, so just be aware.
Two calipers off, repainted and refurbed. What I thought would be a cheap fix turned out not to be, so just be aware.
Mardgee
Paid Member
thanks. I’ll go take mine off then! Not drove the car since changing the brakes but the side with the spring was the corner that failed its MOT for handbrake effectiveness. Mmm.
Dave W
Paid Member
So on that logic, it would seem that Alex at AW is right. If the spring is applied to help release the handbrake because corrosion somewhere prevents it releasing, it’s not unreasonable to assume the spring then works against the handbrake when applying on that side, especially if the cable pull has already achieved maximum pressure on the other brake so can’t pull any harder
S24nrc
Paid Member
I've had the springs on mine for 2 and a half years, no issues to report.
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