Done quite a few things over the last week or so.
First off was a 36K service of the car, this included new plugs, oil, cabin filter, oil filter and brake fluid. Wow what a difference the plugs make, the car feels alive again and pulls so much harder.
While the car was up on the jacks i thought it was about time to replace my rear brake callipers, I had some refurbed ones spare and so now i finally have red calipers front and rear. Next month Ill replace the rear and front discs and fit braided lines.
They look much better, just never got time to doing my own as Im always busy refurbing everyone elses callipers :lol:
With the car done it was now time to carry on with its new engine
This time it was time to port the inlet ports. These were far easier the work with than the exhaust ports at the were a lot wider and shallower. I will also get most gains from re shaping and smoothing the inlet ports.
Below is an image of the ports before porting. As you can the see the partition it fairly large and will cause quite a bit of drag on the flowing air. Like the exhaust ports the walls of the port are really rough with cast marks running down the edges. The valve guides are protruding out which is also an area which will cause excess drag on the air flowing round them. My porting attempts will resolve these issues with the stock ports.
After the first pass with the 60 grit wheel the majority of the shaping is done, the partition has been knife edged to reduce the coefficient of drag on the incoming air. The ridge or hump at the start of the port has also been flattened and blended into the surroundings. The machined channels have also been blended into a smooth curve to aid air flow. The 60 grit wheel has also done a good job at removing all cast marks.
The next stages was a pass with a 120 grit wheel to further refine the contours and smooth the surface. I then used a scotch bright wheel of 180 grit and then 280 grit to smooth the surface to exceptional finish.
I have left the short radius rough (Cant see this in this view) to cause a tumbling effect on the air to increase velocity around the bend into the valve opening. This turbulence should also help with fuel atomization creating a more efficient burn.
The valve guides have been ground flush with the bowls to also aid air flow. This can be done on the inlet due to the reduced temperatures compared with the exhaust ports where the guides are left untouched to protect the valve stem from the intense heat.
I hope you guys are enjoying this build thread!!
Next time Ill blend the valve bowls and get the head skimmed then its time to install the new shiny valves
