I did but one of our guys is speculating if the cause could be your bump steer kit instead. He also mentioned the no thread on the nut as odd. Not sure why the threaded part on the track rod end is so short in general?
The nut is threaded all the way down and sits inside the black bush as well.

It does look like there’s not much thread from the top but that’s because the track rod end is lower down. There is more thread engagement with these than an oem nut.

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Wonder is it anything to do with the bump steer kit as the hub has to be drilled out for those.

I think they were notorious for coming loose too, thats why they come with the fancy washer. I know I tighten mine very tight.

Just checked the cup racer manual and it calls it a “point E nut” and say 105Nm. Standard cars do show 37Nm.

Edit: just looked at the original pic of the broken hub. Has the paint mark on the track rod end nut moved?
 
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Wonder is it anything to do with the bump steer kit as the hub has to be drilled out for those.

I think they were notorious for coming loose too, thats why they come with the fancy washer. I know I tighten mine very tight.

Just checked the cup racer manual and it calls it a “point E nut” and say 105Nm. Standard cars do show 37Nm.

Edit: just looked at the original pic of the broken hub. Has the paint mark on the track rod end nut moved?
Yeah I’ve heard they come loose a lot which is why I’d been doing them pretty tight and with thread locker!

I think they’re point H in the cup racer manual which still says 37nm

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the nut was definitely still tight on the TRE since it took a lot of force to undo it. The broken off bit of hub was loose around the nut after it broke so that’s why the paint mark is off.
 
Yeah I’ve heard they come loose a lot which is why I’d been doing them pretty tight and with thread locker!

I think they’re point H in the cup racer manual which still says 37nm

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the nut was definitely still tight on the TRE since it took a lot of force to undo it. The broken off bit of hub was loose around the nut after it broke so that’s why the paint mark is off.
Thats a better pic. The diagrams are quite confusing cause this pic makes it look like point E (6 is on the previous page calling it point E). Hmmm

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I used to torque to 37 but had to re-torque after every race, it was always a bit loose but was wary of how thin the walls where after reaming to torque any more.