Glacier White 200 Cup

[EthanMenace]

I did but one of our guys is speculating if the cause could be your bump steer kit instead. He also mentioned the no thread on the nut as odd. Not sure why the threaded part on the track rod end is so short in general?

The nut is threaded all the way down and sits inside the black bush as well.

It does look like there’s not much thread from the top but that’s because the track rod end is lower down. There is more thread engagement with these than an oem nut.

 

[av4625]

Wonder is it anything to do with the bump steer kit as the hub has to be drilled out for those.

I think they were notorious for coming loose too, thats why they come with the fancy washer. I know I tighten mine very tight.

Just checked the cup racer manual and it calls it a “point E nut” and say 105Nm. Standard cars do show 37Nm.

Edit: just looked at the original pic of the broken hub. Has the paint mark on the track rod end nut moved?

 

[EthanMenace]

Wonder is it anything to do with the bump steer kit as the hub has to be drilled out for those.

I think they were notorious for coming loose too, thats why they come with the fancy washer. I know I tighten mine very tight.

Just checked the cup racer manual and it calls it a “point E nut” and say 105Nm. Standard cars do show 37Nm.

Edit: just looked at the original pic of the broken hub. Has the paint mark on the track rod end nut moved?

Yeah I’ve heard they come loose a lot which is why I’d been doing them pretty tight and with thread locker!

I think they’re point H in the cup racer manual which still says 37nm





the nut was definitely still tight on the TRE since it took a lot of force to undo it. The broken off bit of hub was loose around the nut after it broke so that’s why the paint mark is off.

 

[av4625]

Yeah I’ve heard they come loose a lot which is why I’d been doing them pretty tight and with thread locker!

I think they’re point H in the cup racer manual which still says 37nm

View attachment 161578

View attachment 161579

the nut was definitely still tight on the TRE since it took a lot of force to undo it. The broken off bit of hub was loose around the nut after it broke so that’s why the paint mark is off.

Thats a better pic. The diagrams are quite confusing cause this pic makes it look like point E (6 is on the previous page calling it point E). Hmmm

 

[Marsch]

Found this in my docs...

 

[av4625]

Found this in my docs...

View attachment 161583

Is that for road cars or cupracers?

What doc is that from. It’s a nice clear diagram.

 

[Marsch]

It's from here actually.

Clio 197/200 Torque Setting for Suspensions/Engine.

Haven't seen a thread with all of the torque settings before,if there is one please just close this one,if not hope this is of help.

clio197.net

 

[Sean197]

 

[LiamP]

I used to torque to 37 but had to re-torque after every race, it was always a bit loose but was wary of how thin the walls where after reaming to torque any more.

 

[av4625]

I’m now worried about mine lol mine are defo tighter than 37Nm and I have seen them slacken slightly as well

 

[Marsch]

I've looked a bit more into it an can confirm that the 37 Nm are correct for the road car as it's also mentioned in the 197/200 service manual.




I can also confirm that the value for the Cup is given as 105 Nm for the point E nut as they call it. This value is mentioned multiple times in the manual for the Cup.

Because of this huge discrepancy in the torque values I've looked up part numbers. It seems there are actually two different numbers for that part. One for the road car and one for the Cup.

Road 7701208961

Cup 7711160121

If that's the case and one isn't just a replacement part number than they may actually be made to different specs which could explain the difference.

 

[EthanMenace]

I've looked a bit more into it an can confirm that the 37 Nm are correct for the road car as it's also mentioned in the 197/200 service manual.


View attachment 161589

I can also confirm that the value for the Cup is given as 105 Nm for the point E nut as they call it. This value is mentioned multiple times in the manual for the Cup.

Because of this huge discrepancy in the torque values I've looked up part numbers. It seems there are actually two different numbers for that part. One for the road car and one for the Cup.

Road 7701208961

Cup 7711160121

If that's the case and one isn't just a replacement part number than they may actually be made to different specs which could explain the difference.

I’m pretty sure point E nut is the lower balljoint on the wishbone which is 105nm.

Point H is the track rod end nut which still says 37nm.

 

[Marsch]

Seems you're right and we confused the point E with point H nut. A little further down in the manual it also states "Point H nut: 37Nm".