Glacier White 200 Cup

[Dowling93]

Question for the brake experts here. What is the best way to bed in new brake pads and new brake discs?

The Godspeed discs suggest that they should be bedded in with about 250 gentle road miles.

The front and rear brake pads are DS1.11s and to bed them in usually we block up the brake ducts at the front of the car and go out on to a dual carriageway late at night and do about 15 to 20 hard stops from about 60mph down to 20mph. This gets the front pads nice and hot to the point that they are smoking.

So the brake pads want an aggressive bedding in session but the discs want a gentle bedding in session.

We could put some older RPX pads on at the front of the car to bed in the discs with some commuting miles to and from work this week and then swap out the old RPX pads for the new DS1.11 pads to bed in the front DS1.11s.

What do people suggest?

Anytime I've bedded in new pads or discs alone or together I've generally done what you say above, I get the discs good and hot with a blue tint to them and cool them down, that was on brembo hc discs now mind you and usually pbs pro race pads. Never had issues with warping or cracks etc. I can't do it on the road anymore so I go at the back of the sighting laps

 

[RSRowe]

I’d follow Godspeeds instructions. I’m sure he told me to have another set of pads to run the disc in first.

Here lies the problem with them really. If you don’t do that, there’s no recourse when you have issues down the road.

 

[burrellbloke]

The new brakes are now on the Clio.

The new rear discs are Godspeed G hooks.



New Ferodo DS1.11 rear pads.



The new front discs are Godspeed G hook 330m discs and bells.



Bigger Megane 3 callipers together with new bigger sized Ferodo DS1.11 brake pads.



The Megane callipers have been rebuilt with new seals.

The brakes have all been bled with some Motul RBF 660 fluid.

The clutch has also been given a good bleed as Alex suggested that we might have suffered with clutch drag at Donington rather than issues caused by an unsuitable gearbox oil.

We are off to Mallory Park on Friday so we will have to get the brakes and discs bedded in during the week and then see what difference the new brake set up makes on track.

 

[Sean.R]

I followed the guidance for the disks and they cost more

I just went on the motorway in the evening
I was in a rush as I had a track day booked in a few days.
So just got it done in the one evening

 

[rSilva]

I would do the same procedure as you do for the pads to prepare the discs.

And I strongly advise against used pads on new discs, as you want the new pads and discs to be mated to each other, as the wear on the old pads will not exactly match the new ones.

In my mind, the only thing to worry about with new discs (or used) is to not let them cool down stopped, because they won't cool evenly. So do what you need to do for the pads to set, and then make sure you do enough calm driving with minimal braking to let the discs cool evenly and prevent warping.

 

[RSRowe]

I would do the same procedure as you do for the pads to prepare the discs.

I’m sorry, but that is poor advice for this disc manufacturer.

 

[Helpimonfire]

Godspeed don't need any more excuses to crack, I'd follow their guidelines with a set of decent used pads. Almost worth keeping a set of standard Brembo pads for bedding discs in maybe?

 

[turkie172]

I think temperature stickers or temperature paint are needed to monitor the discs and pads in order to manage the problem. It would be better to have a live monitor, but I think that is expensive. Two years ago, during a superbike session, I changed out the front wheel and carried the used one out to the rack. The bike went out again before I returned from the back of the garage. I told the guys that the wheel was as hot as I have ever felt and to check the data, as we had temp sensors for each disc the data was downloaded during the pitstop. The result was 850 degrees and 2 sets of discs destroyed in 45 mins. The same rider on a stock bike, stock calipers and stock type discs the following year with a properly developed brake garage routine for every run we could manage and gave the rider a better feel as well. The caliper seals stock are only rated to 170 degrees, the stock bike times were comparable to 5th in the superbike class. Your pads are rated working temperature range of 200°-750°C the calipers will need more routine work

 

[rSilva]

I’m sorry, but that is poor advice for this disc manufacturer.

I just know the 2 piece Reyland that I have, and that's just my view.

 

[RSRowe]

I just know the 2 piece Reyland that I have, and that's just my view.

That’s fair enough. But these are Godspeed discs.

 

[av4625]

That’s fair enough. But these are Godspeed discs.

Godspeed have loads of issues? Fingers crossed mine have been ok! But again I do short runs normally

 

[RSRowe]

Lots is overstating it, but I’ve had direct experience with running their discs in following the pad instructions. When your disc cracks, you then have absolutely 0 recourse through GS.

I appreciate my use case was probably different to most, as the car was only ever used on track. Doing 2-300 gentle road miles isn’t possible in a track car.

As Sean says, they’re the expensive part. Doing it per their instructions is the best thing to do.

 

[Mardgee]

I'd follow the disc manufacturer advice, saying that its been a while since I've ran anything other than a plain OEM style disc - I usually just go out for a gentle drive that then turns into a 8/10 local country road drive with them being left at the pub at the end for 30 mins to cool off