Glacier White 200 Cup

[suj]

Haha. Lucky prompt!
why do you think you’ll be limited to only -2.3°?

Top mounts on YSR coilovers, I don't think -2.3degs degrees is right, I know someone running -3degs on them (this is on large early mounts).

 

[burrellbloke]

Top mounts on YSR coilovers, I don't think -2.3degs degrees is right, I know someone running -3degs on them (this is on large early mounts).

I e-mailed them to double check. They said 2.3 was the maximum from their top mounts and suggested contacting Kam Racing to see if it would go further. I am sure that camber bolts could add a bit more.

 

[suj]

I e-mailed them to double check. They said 2.3 was the maximum from their top mounts and suggested contacting Kam Racing to see if it would go further. I am sure that camber bolts could add a bit more.

Can't use camber bolts on MK3s, can get those adjustable bushes on the bottom arms, but I've heard horror stories of them coming undone and different camber left to right.
Maybe it's due to being on a 200 with later top mounts, as he's definitely using YSRs and running 3degs.

Doesn't matter now, as you've got the GGs on order, so all good.

 

[burrellbloke]

Can't use camber bolts on MK3s, can get those adjustable bushes on the bottom arms, but I've heard horror stories of them coming undone and different camber left to right.
Maybe it's due to being on a 200 with later top mounts, as he's definitely using YSRs and running 3degs.

Doesn't matter now, as you've got the GGs on order, so all good.

Maybe I was given duff information from YSR? I am looking forward to the Gaz Golds to stiffen up the ride on track and get the car more planted round corners.

 

[Big Ben]

Maybe I was given duff information from YSR? I am looking forward to the Gaz Golds to stiffen up the ride on track and get the car more planted round corners.

What spring rates did you opt for?

 

[burrellbloke]

Probably 650 and 350 - Matt is going to sort it out. As the car is not stripped out and carries a bit of extra weight when I am in it stiffer springs may be better.

 

[RSRowe]

I think we all run the same. You won’t be disappointed

 

[Big Ben]

As above you’re onto a winner

 

[burrellbloke]

I thought I would just give some feedback on the Odyssey PC680 battery that is in the car. Before the battery was installed I was a little bit concerned that it may be too small and that I should get the bigger size battery for more cranking amps. So far the PC680 has been fine. Recently we have had some cold weather which went down to freezing temperatures but the car is starting without any problems.

The car has so far been left for about a week without being started and it fires up without any problems.

When the car does start it does sound like is it a little bit lethargic but fires up first time every time. I think this is just because the PC680 has less CCA then a standard battery.

 

[burrellbloke]

The Gaz Golds will hopefully arrive from Supreme Motorsport in January 2022 and I have been thinking about what set up we should go for on the Clio. We have gone for stiffer springs which are more "track spec" than "fast road spec".

The car has a set of B14s on it now which are set with a 20mm drop so it is a more compliant ride but nothing too extreme. The last time the alignment was done (with the B14s on) the set up looked like this:



After the alignment was done I added another 30 minute shim to the left rear so both rears have about 1.6 degrees of negative camber.

The ideal set up seems to be something like Cup Racer settings:



The car is being used less and less on the road and in the future it is probably going to do a few thousand miles a year on the road, be driven to and from track days, and used on track days. When it is on the road it will have sensible PS4 tyres on. The semi slick tyres will be used on track days only.

Are Cup Racer settings too extreme for a car on the road? If so, how much should the negative camber and toe be dialled back?

I am aware that by using more negative camber and increased toe the tyres are likely to wear less evenly, and, the car may not have as much grip in wet weather or on roads with "adverse" camber. What are the other things to consider as negatives for running a more track focused geometry on a car that will cover a few thousand miles on the road?

I am genuinely interested to hear what people have to say on this subject.

 

[PITA]

I run
Front - 3.5 degrees of camber, 1mm toe out, 6 degrees of caster
Rear - 2.7 degrees of camber, 2mm toe in

It’s great of track but can bunny hop on the road around islands on PS4s. I’d rather compromise the on road experience for a better track experience.

 

[strell]

I am running a lot of camber on my Clio and it behaves quite well on the road. So as above I’d definitely go for a better track set up and take a slightly fidgety road car

Also as a note your rear left camber is -1 degree 56 minutes. So only 4 minutes away from -2 degrees. Rather than being -1.6 degrees. (Pedantic I know but no one told me this for years lol)

 

[burrellbloke]

I am running a lot of camber on my Clio and it behaves quite well on the road. So as above I’d definitely go for a better track set up and take a slightly fidgety road car

Also as a note your rear left camber is -1 degree 56 minutes. So only 4 minutes away from -2 degrees. Rather than being -1.6 degrees. (Pedantic I know but no one told me this for years lol)

Yes, you are right. 60 Minutes in a degree!

 

[suj]

I would run the Cup Racer specs (3degs front, 2.5degs rear) then toe is subjective to you, some run none, some run what Craig above does.

As you will be lower on rear, you will gain some camber, so then you can buy new shims accordingly.

Get it aligned from a good and trusted place, they can give you advise of what will work well.

 

[LiamP]

I think its the stiff rear and front toe that causes my car to want to drift on the road, from my experience I would recommend starting with racer specs and trying it out on a few tracks before making any changes (but be prepared to want changes)

 

[Big Ben]

The Gaz Golds will hopefully arrive from Supreme Motorsport in January 2022 and I have been thinking about what set up we should go for on the Clio. We have gone for stiffer springs which are more "track spec" than "fast road spec".

The car has a set of B14s on it now which are set with a 20mm drop so it is a more compliant ride but nothing too extreme. The last time the alignment was done (with the B14s on) the set up looked like this:

View attachment 148469

After the alignment was done I added another 30 minute shim to the left rear so both rears have about 1.6 degrees of negative camber.

The ideal set up seems to be something like Cup Racer settings:

View attachment 148470

The car is being used less and less on the road and in the future it is probably going to do a few thousand miles a year on the road, be driven to and from track days, and used on track days. When it is on the road it will have sensible PS4 tyres on. The semi slick tyres will be used on track days only.

Are Cup Racer settings too extreme for a car on the road? If so, how much should the negative camber and toe be dialled back?

I am aware that by using more negative camber and increased toe the tyres are likely to wear less evenly, and, the car may not have as much grip in wet weather or on roads with "adverse" camber. What are the other things to consider as negatives for running a more track focused geometry on a car that will cover a few thousand miles on the road?

I am genuinely interested to hear what people have to say on this subject.

@Beany has cup racer settings and I don’t think he’s a fan of driving his car on the road because it’s awful

 

[Beany]

Mine was setup by Matt when it was down there to cup racer spec..

on track it’s great however on the road it’s awful, just feels squirmy on a straight road.

 

[burrellbloke]

Thank you for all of the feedback. I think we will probably try a Cup Racer set up and see how uncomfortable it is on the road and then decide if we need to make any changes from there.

Is there an easy way to measure camber without going to a garage? I am sure that I have seen references to people doing their set up with string and axle stands. I am just thinking of finding a way to get the ride height and camber about right on the drive before driving somewhere to have it fine tuned.

 

[tcw]

Thank you for all of the feedback. I think we will probably try a Cup Racer set up and see how uncomfortable it is on the road and then decide if we need to make any changes from there.

Is there an easy way to measure camber without going to a garage? I am sure that I have seen references to people doing their set up with string and axle stands. I am just thinking of finding a way to get the ride height and camber about right on the drive before driving somewhere to have it fine tuned.

You can use a spirit level and some washers to do it very roughly if you want... but honestly, I'd probably just make it even via the top mounts on both sides and leave it to the garage.

Ride height, worth getting roughly right, but I assume you'll get it corner weighted?

 

[PITA]

Thank you for all of the feedback. I think we will probably try a Cup Racer set up and see how uncomfortable it is on the road and then decide if we need to make any changes from there.

Is there an easy way to measure camber without going to a garage? I am sure that I have seen references to people doing their set up with string and axle stands. I am just thinking of finding a way to get the ride height and camber about right on the drive before driving somewhere to have it fine tuned.

You can get inclinometers that tell you camber and castor, have a look on eBay.