Glacier White 200 Cup

burrellbloke said:
Question for the brake experts here. What is the best way to bed in new brake pads and new brake discs?

The Godspeed discs suggest that they should be bedded in with about 250 gentle road miles.

The front and rear brake pads are DS1.11s and to bed them in usually we block up the brake ducts at the front of the car and go out on to a dual carriageway late at night and do about 15 to 20 hard stops from about 60mph down to 20mph. This gets the front pads nice and hot to the point that they are smoking.

So the brake pads want an aggressive bedding in session but the discs want a gentle bedding in session.

We could put some older RPX pads on at the front of the car to bed in the discs with some commuting miles to and from work this week and then swap out the old RPX pads for the new DS1.11 pads to bed in the front DS1.11s.

What do people suggest?
Click to expand...
Anytime I've bedded in new pads or discs alone or together I've generally done what you say above, I get the discs good and hot with a blue tint to them and cool them down, that was on brembo hc discs now mind you and usually pbs pro race pads. Never had issues with warping or cracks etc. I can't do it on the road anymore so I go at the back of the sighting laps
 
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I’d follow Godspeeds instructions. I’m sure he told me to have another set of pads to run the disc in first.

Here lies the problem with them really. If you don’t do that, there’s no recourse when you have issues down the road.
 
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The new brakes are now on the Clio.

The new rear discs are Godspeed G hooks.

IMG_9525.jpeg

New Ferodo DS1.11 rear pads.

IMG_9533.jpeg

The new front discs are Godspeed G hook 330m discs and bells.

IMG_9534.jpeg

Bigger Megane 3 callipers together with new bigger sized Ferodo DS1.11 brake pads.

IMG_9529.jpeg

The Megane callipers have been rebuilt with new seals.

The brakes have all been bled with some Motul RBF 660 fluid.

The clutch has also been given a good bleed as Alex suggested that we might have suffered with clutch drag at Donington rather than issues caused by an unsuitable gearbox oil.

We are off to Mallory Park on Friday so we will have to get the brakes and discs bedded in during the week and then see what difference the new brake set up makes on track.
 
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I would do the same procedure as you do for the pads to prepare the discs.

And I strongly advise against used pads on new discs, as you want the new pads and discs to be mated to each other, as the wear on the old pads will not exactly match the new ones.

In my mind, the only thing to worry about with new discs (or used) is to not let them cool down stopped, because they won't cool evenly. So do what you need to do for the pads to set, and then make sure you do enough calm driving with minimal braking to let the discs cool evenly and prevent warping.
 
Godspeed don't need any more excuses to crack, I'd follow their guidelines with a set of decent used pads. Almost worth keeping a set of standard Brembo pads for bedding discs in maybe?
 
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I think temperature stickers or temperature paint are needed to monitor the discs and pads in order to manage the problem. It would be better to have a live monitor, but I think that is expensive. Two years ago, during a superbike session, I changed out the front wheel and carried the used one out to the rack. The bike went out again before I returned from the back of the garage. I told the guys that the wheel was as hot as I have ever felt and to check the data, as we had temp sensors for each disc the data was downloaded during the pitstop. The result was 850 degrees and 2 sets of discs destroyed in 45 mins. The same rider on a stock bike, stock calipers and stock type discs the following year with a properly developed brake garage routine for every run we could manage and gave the rider a better feel as well. The caliper seals stock are only rated to 170 degrees, the stock bike times were comparable to 5th in the superbike class. Your pads are rated working temperature range of 200°-750°C the calipers will need more routine work
 
Lots is overstating it, but I’ve had direct experience with running their discs in following the pad instructions. When your disc cracks, you then have absolutely 0 recourse through GS.

I appreciate my use case was probably different to most, as the car was only ever used on track. Doing 2-300 gentle road miles isn’t possible in a track car.

As Sean says, they’re the expensive part. Doing it per their instructions is the best thing to do.
 
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I'd follow the disc manufacturer advice, saying that its been a while since I've ran anything other than a plain OEM style disc - I usually just go out for a gentle drive that then turns into a 8/10 local country road drive with them being left at the pub at the end for 30 mins to cool off :smiley:
 
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We are Mallory Park tomorrow. The Godspeed discs have been given a gentle run in and will have done 250 miles by the time we get to Mallory Park tomorrow morning. We opted to follow Godspeed's advice and have used a set of part used EBC RPX pads in the front at the moment that @EthanMenace used in his Megane 250 for a little bit.

We will use the sighting laps and the first session of the day to bed in the DS1.11 pads. Hopefully we won't have a situation like the recent Evo crashing in to the back of a 911 GT3 RS when we bed in the pads.

Ethan put some miles on the Clio doing a drive last night and a commute today. He was still not happy with the gearbox so we decided to swap the box oil just before driving to Leicester to stay the night before heading to Mallory Park.

IMG_9551.jpeg

Some Red Line MTL 75w80 has gone in to the box. We have brought tools to bleed the clutch again if the gearbox still feels odd at Mallory Park.

I was up early today and after giving the dog a walk I decided to wash the track wheels before going to work.

IMG_9547.jpeg

The Direzzas are nearly dead and at least 2 of the tyres will be killed off by the end of tomorrow. I have ordered another set of new Direzzas from Tegiwa. Direzzas are not cheap but the set I have just ordered were cheaper than the set I ordered last year.
 
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Asking for a friend…

Why would brake fluid squirt out of the clutch bleed point even with the valve closed/clip in.

The car worked fine and was a bit crunchy, tried to bleed it again, some dirty looking stuff came out, put it back together and now it squirts out when it should be closed
 
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To bleed a clutch I put a pipe on that would go higher than the reservoir bottle that will stop you losing fluid the valve has two positions if you have a pressure bleeder attached the pressure will stop you doing the final click closed. When the fluids gravity reached the height of the reservoir and valve open I used a syringe with air to push fluid backwards to clear the air pockets in the clutch pipe (reverse bleed).

You should not have to take any clip out just push in to allow the next step, step one bleed and step two disconnect
 
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I used a pressure bleeder put a pipe on the bleed nipple into a bottle and took the clip most of the way out and push the slave apart slightly to let all the fluid out and pushed it back in afterwards, probably not the correct way but worked for me.

The o-ring is in the groove correctly? Or maybe the clip is not fully seated in,not the easiest to see with the wiring loom in the way.
 
EthanMenace said:
Asking for a friend…

Why would brake fluid squirt out of the clutch bleed point even with the valve closed/clip in.

The car worked fine and was a bit crunchy, tried to bleed it again, some dirty looking stuff came out, put it back together and now it squirts out when it should be closed
Click to expand...
It’s not fully closed

Remove the clip entirely. Then use a long flat blade screwdriver to keep the inlet of the slave rigid, then push the pipe on, then put the clip in.
 
There was an o ring missing, we managed to grab a few from a garage but then with the valve closed and the metal clip on, the pressure from pressing the clutch pedal seems pretty harsh and just fires the line off the slave.

I’ve tried bending the clip a bit but doesn’t seem to be helping.

I think we’re going to get recovered and try and diagnose it at home!

IMG_8535.jpeg
 
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