The car drives better without the spacers on the rear, but the rear end looks awful without spacers as the wheels get lost in the arches.

I think in the future we will start every track day without the rear spacers unless we are having any stability or handling issues.
 
  • Like
Reactions: av4625
The car drives better without the spacers on the rear, but the rear end looks awful without spacers as the wheels get lost in the arches.

I think in the future we will start every track day without the rear spacers unless we are having any stability or handling issues.
As a middle ground you could put a set of 10mm PMS stub axle spacers on, I had a set on mine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: burrellbloke
I spent a few hours today cleaning the Clio. It had not been cleaned after its recent trips to Mallory Park and Blyton Park and was covered in tyre debris. Also, @EthanMenace had hit a some of the "track furniture" at Blyton Park and that left some marks on the passenger side of the front bumper.


This is what it looked like before I cleaned the car.

IMG_9826.jpeg

After a good clean and liberal use of some Meguairs Ultimate Compound the marks disappeared.

IMG_9832.jpeg

We have looked at the set of Direzzas that we used from the summer last year up until Mallory Park and they seemed to have worn quicker on the inside edge leaving more tread of the outside edge of the tyres. We will get the geo set up with some more aggressive camber at the front and move from 3.5 to about 4 to 4 and a bit degrees of negative camber. The rear axle only has about 1.5 degrees of negative camber so we might shim that up to 2.5 degrees of negative camber. Hopefully a more aggressive set up at the front will even out the tyre wear as we think that we have tyre pressures about right.

The gearbox is still a bit "crunchy". I will book an alignment at AW Motorworks and see if Alex has any good suggestions to sort out our clutch drag issue. We have bled the clutch as much as we can and now wonder if there are any other ways to improve the situation that don't involve taking the gearbox out again. An odd thing that I have noticed since the slave cylinder was replaced is that the ignition is turned on the car displays a "Select neutral" message on the dashboard before the start button is pressed even when the car is in neutral. We did not get this message before.
 
Ok that makes more sense. Just be wary of messing too much. Blyton is terrible for outside wear. Lots of lefts and no time for the rubber to cool.

I think the only tyre I’ve used there which I’ve not killed, was MRF’s.
 
Ok that makes more sense. Just be wary of messing too much. Blyton is terrible for outside wear. Lots of lefts and no time for the rubber to cool.

I think the only tyre I’ve used there which I’ve not killed, was MRF’s.
Aye, Blyton is a very hard circuit on the tyres…
It is the wear from summer of 2025 through to Mallory Park this year that we think we need to sort out with extra camber. At Blyton we had a new set of tyres on.
 
Futuristic tyre wear :wink:

Going 4 is quite drastic as I know the cup racer spec is about 3.1 front and 2.3 rear as I know you’ve essentially got a cup racer front set up.

I’d be tempted to dial up the rear and see how that affects it before moving to the front. Adding shims is more simpler too than adjusting the top mounts about
 
Futuristic tyre wear :wink:

Going 4 is quite drastic as I know the cup racer spec is about 3.1 front and 2.3 rear as I know you’ve essentially got a cup racer front set up.

I’d be tempted to dial up the rear and see how that affects it before moving to the front. Adding shims is more simpler too than adjusting the top mounts about
Jeez. I had a few days off over Easer, ate too much chocolate, ate too many hot cross buns and now I can barely think or type.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Beany