Steves Megane conversion build - She's finally running (VIDEO inside)
- Thread starter Stephenvenning
- Start date
Chris
Bad cop
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Thanks pal
took many attempts on that exhaust wrap :lol: there will be updates at the end of the week.
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Yeah it would be easier :lol: but know one I know has a trailer, it's a 4 hour drive as well.
TB Rich
Paid Member
Are you deviating from the standard spec much, doesn't seem worth the risk of a long drive to me. I've trailed my old car almost 4hours twice for mapping sessions, it's a ballache and cost sure, but van and trailer costs against the money you've undoubtedly spent gotta be worth it!
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
UPDATE:
This week I have spent time getting the engine pretty much assembled. I installed a 1.6mm MLS head gasket to compensate for the 0.3mm taken off the cylinder head. The ARP head studs were wound in hand tight into the block. The cylinder head was then given another clean and placed onto the engine block. ARP moly lube was then applied to the studs, washers and nuts, these were then torqued down to 105 ft ib in three equal steps of 35 ib ft. It was then left 30 mins before final torquing to 105 ft ib.
The water pump was installed and bolts tightened to 17Nm, then tip-ex applied to the bolt to show it has been torqued up. The thermostat housing was installed in the same manner but torqued to 12Nm according with the workshop manual. The uprated timing belt tensioners were installed and the fixed tensioner pulley was torqued to 50Nm.
This week I should finish the engine bar getting it timed up. The only thing holding the build back is the fact I'm still waiting on some Max tuff assembly lube, once this arrives I can install the camshafts and rocker cover.
The engine is looking rather tasty now
Thanks
This week I have spent time getting the engine pretty much assembled. I installed a 1.6mm MLS head gasket to compensate for the 0.3mm taken off the cylinder head. The ARP head studs were wound in hand tight into the block. The cylinder head was then given another clean and placed onto the engine block. ARP moly lube was then applied to the studs, washers and nuts, these were then torqued down to 105 ft ib in three equal steps of 35 ib ft. It was then left 30 mins before final torquing to 105 ft ib.
The water pump was installed and bolts tightened to 17Nm, then tip-ex applied to the bolt to show it has been torqued up. The thermostat housing was installed in the same manner but torqued to 12Nm according with the workshop manual. The uprated timing belt tensioners were installed and the fixed tensioner pulley was torqued to 50Nm.
This week I should finish the engine bar getting it timed up. The only thing holding the build back is the fact I'm still waiting on some Max tuff assembly lube, once this arrives I can install the camshafts and rocker cover.
The engine is looking rather tasty now
Thanks
Yiannis197
Paid Member
Jesse James
Platinum Member
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
UPDATE:
Hello guys
Been a busy week on the engine build. Ive first managed to install the cams and bolt down the rocker cover, I used Tuff Purple assembly lube on all the rockers, cam lobes and journals. A layer of rhodorseal was applied to the rocker cover mating surfaces and was bolted down to a torque of 12Nm in accordance with the user manual.
The cam seals were now installed. The surfaces were cleaned thouroughly and assembly lube applied to the inside of the seal. They were then pressed into the cylinder head recesses until they stopped. Both cams turn over easily and all the valves open.
Next up was to bolt on the breather cover but when tightening down the bolts they chipped the paint really badly so Ill have to repaint them with stronger paint I thank, strange as the rocker cover was fine.
The turbo and associated oil and coolant lines were now bolted on along with the down pipe just to check alignment of everything. With it at this stage I couldn't resist bolting on the inlet manifold and boost pipes just to see how it will look in the car, looks so good, definite improvement over the current engine bay.
Also turned my attention to the fuel sender access hole today, a few weeks back I bought a air nibbler but just never got the chance to cut the hole bigger. I put down a wet rag over the sender and had a fire extinguisher on stand by :lol: I cut the rough hole out with the nibbler, then followed up with a half round file to neaten up the edges. Tomorrow Ill neaten the edges with rubber edging trim. Then in the week Ill make up a new panel to cover the larger hole.
Also next week Ill hopefully finish the engine and start rebuilding the gearbox. Then its conversion time
Thanks as always
Hello guys
Been a busy week on the engine build. Ive first managed to install the cams and bolt down the rocker cover, I used Tuff Purple assembly lube on all the rockers, cam lobes and journals. A layer of rhodorseal was applied to the rocker cover mating surfaces and was bolted down to a torque of 12Nm in accordance with the user manual.
The cam seals were now installed. The surfaces were cleaned thouroughly and assembly lube applied to the inside of the seal. They were then pressed into the cylinder head recesses until they stopped. Both cams turn over easily and all the valves open.
Next up was to bolt on the breather cover but when tightening down the bolts they chipped the paint really badly so Ill have to repaint them with stronger paint I thank, strange as the rocker cover was fine.
The turbo and associated oil and coolant lines were now bolted on along with the down pipe just to check alignment of everything. With it at this stage I couldn't resist bolting on the inlet manifold and boost pipes just to see how it will look in the car, looks so good, definite improvement over the current engine bay.
Also turned my attention to the fuel sender access hole today, a few weeks back I bought a air nibbler but just never got the chance to cut the hole bigger. I put down a wet rag over the sender and had a fire extinguisher on stand by :lol: I cut the rough hole out with the nibbler, then followed up with a half round file to neaten up the edges. Tomorrow Ill neaten the edges with rubber edging trim. Then in the week Ill make up a new panel to cover the larger hole.
Also next week Ill hopefully finish the engine and start rebuilding the gearbox. Then its conversion time
Thanks as always
Yiannis197
Paid Member
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Lovely......going to tidy my fuel sender hole after seeing that. Your eye for detail is something else
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
Thanks mate. Doesn't take long to neaten up, the steel is so thin that it files down quickly
Stephenvenning
Gold Member
