av4625
Paid Member
In the process of doing up some spare arms 
av4625
Paid Member
Haven't updated in a while.
The R888R's are something else. My first day out on them I was braking wayyyy to early as I was used to the Nankangs. Second day out I was getting much closer to the other guys.
Went to drive home after a sprint and the car wouldn't start. We pulled out the starter motor and the little link wire from the solenoid to the motor had broken. Soldered it and it went fine. The starter motor is in a very awkward place on these.
Got my first class win the day after the starter gave up. Had to push it to get it started everytime.
We also removed the aircon. Because I already had a lightweight crank pulley I didn't want to put a 172 pulley on. So I moved the alternator further forward on a little adjustable bracket and kept the tensioner pulley and 197 size crank pulley
The R888R's are something else. My first day out on them I was braking wayyyy to early as I was used to the Nankangs. Second day out I was getting much closer to the other guys.
Went to drive home after a sprint and the car wouldn't start. We pulled out the starter motor and the little link wire from the solenoid to the motor had broken. Soldered it and it went fine. The starter motor is in a very awkward place on these.
Got my first class win the day after the starter gave up. Had to push it to get it started everytime.
We also removed the aircon. Because I already had a lightweight crank pulley I didn't want to put a 172 pulley on. So I moved the alternator further forward on a little adjustable bracket and kept the tensioner pulley and 197 size crank pulley
Great project mate. Just wondering what you painted your arms with and if it's holding up ok on the car? Also, what did you do when you fitted the fixed bucket seats with the seat belt buckle?
av4625
Paid Member
Hi, thanks
It was just some black aerosol can that my dad picked up at some local place.
I haven't put them on the car yet as I was waiting for balljoints to come. It will most likely be an over the winter job now. I plan to tidy up the swivel hubs and paint them and the rear beam.
The guy I bought the subframes off had bought separate belt buckles and drilled a hole in the subframes to mount it. I quite quickly got a 6 point harness for the drivers seat. The subframes will be for sale soon as I have one SW Motorsports direct to floor sidemount and waiting on another for the passenger side.
av4625
Paid Member
Added a sunstrip to the Clio yesterday.
Nearly cried about 3 times trying to get the logo on and its still not exactly straight lol
Doesn't look to bad though
Nearly cried about 3 times trying to get the logo on and its still not exactly straight lol
Doesn't look to bad though
av4625
Paid Member
av4625
Paid Member
Haven't updated in a while!
I recall saying way back (probably on page 1 lol) that I wasn't going to go to far with the car and keep it pretty standard and just do some sprints. I really thought I'd stay to that, but as is the same for everyone, that didn't seem to happen.
Got a half cage made after the last sprint of the year, didn't like running harnesses without it. Think I will try a hillclimb this year now that I have a cage instead of just sprints. Inside still needs tidied up and passenger seat needs to be put back in.
Collected the car from getting the cage and got it back home at 12 one Monday. By the time 16:00 - 16:30 came it looked like this.
We have taken the back axel off to fit powerflex bushes.
Fitting braided lines where the 2 short flexys are and then from those flexys to the caliper.
Got a rebuild kit for the calipers, when stripped it seems that one of the calipers looks pretty new and was maybe replaced before I got it. We did notice last winter that the rear calipers where easy to wind back.
Going to fit the new painted arms with the powerflex bushes and new balljoints up front. Also putting new balljoints in the drivers side hub as the passenger side was done for last MOT.
Drop links and anti rotation links are relatively new as well so the whole car should be pretty tight.
Got some bits sand blasted and am going to paint them black.
Surprised how good my radiator support is, most you see including the one on my dads partners standard mk3 clio (which is newer and facelift) is in holes.
Thinking of removing the two legs that go backwards, as I've read they don't do anything. They don't seem to screw to anything that is substantial to be fair.
I noticed that the back of my radiator support, where the little pins are, had an inch gap to where the screw head is that goes through the small bush on the lower arm. I think it's the subframe that it sits up against but I'm not near the car and can't remember. I saw a picture under a 197 on the facebook group and their radiator support was tight up against the subframe/(where that screw head is). Not sure if thats a bit worrying, going to have to make sure nothing is out of place or bent the next time I'm near the car.
Got some Eibach springs to put on the car to see how that goes.
When I was getting the airbag sensor coded out with clip we realised that the front/pre cat lambda was reading nothing. Could explain why the revs drop on idle sometimes. Supposedly it is adding 50% extra fuel. :O Thats weird cause it seems to run fine when driving/reving. Got a bosch sensor, the one in my manifold is seized solid. Not sure how I'm going to get it out.
Got a small race battery to put under/behind the passenger seat. Any recommendations for fuse and wire gauge for this?
Going to try a piper cross induction kit. I have the filter head that is in a hard trumpet shape carbon case. Going to make the pipe up myself and run ducting from the fog light to the filter. Can't see how this would be worse than the standard airbox and shouldn't heat soak. I could be eating my words soon haha. I'd really like one of those 3d printed ducting things for the fog light hole that a guy was selling on here to mount the ducting. Seems to be the tidiest option.
I recall saying way back (probably on page 1 lol) that I wasn't going to go to far with the car and keep it pretty standard and just do some sprints. I really thought I'd stay to that, but as is the same for everyone, that didn't seem to happen.
Got a half cage made after the last sprint of the year, didn't like running harnesses without it. Think I will try a hillclimb this year now that I have a cage instead of just sprints. Inside still needs tidied up and passenger seat needs to be put back in.
Collected the car from getting the cage and got it back home at 12 one Monday. By the time 16:00 - 16:30 came it looked like this.
We have taken the back axel off to fit powerflex bushes.
Fitting braided lines where the 2 short flexys are and then from those flexys to the caliper.
Got a rebuild kit for the calipers, when stripped it seems that one of the calipers looks pretty new and was maybe replaced before I got it. We did notice last winter that the rear calipers where easy to wind back.
Going to fit the new painted arms with the powerflex bushes and new balljoints up front. Also putting new balljoints in the drivers side hub as the passenger side was done for last MOT.
Drop links and anti rotation links are relatively new as well so the whole car should be pretty tight.
Got some bits sand blasted and am going to paint them black.
Surprised how good my radiator support is, most you see including the one on my dads partners standard mk3 clio (which is newer and facelift) is in holes.
Thinking of removing the two legs that go backwards, as I've read they don't do anything. They don't seem to screw to anything that is substantial to be fair.
I noticed that the back of my radiator support, where the little pins are, had an inch gap to where the screw head is that goes through the small bush on the lower arm. I think it's the subframe that it sits up against but I'm not near the car and can't remember. I saw a picture under a 197 on the facebook group and their radiator support was tight up against the subframe/(where that screw head is). Not sure if thats a bit worrying, going to have to make sure nothing is out of place or bent the next time I'm near the car.
Got some Eibach springs to put on the car to see how that goes.
When I was getting the airbag sensor coded out with clip we realised that the front/pre cat lambda was reading nothing. Could explain why the revs drop on idle sometimes. Supposedly it is adding 50% extra fuel. :O Thats weird cause it seems to run fine when driving/reving. Got a bosch sensor, the one in my manifold is seized solid. Not sure how I'm going to get it out.
Got a small race battery to put under/behind the passenger seat. Any recommendations for fuse and wire gauge for this?
Going to try a piper cross induction kit. I have the filter head that is in a hard trumpet shape carbon case. Going to make the pipe up myself and run ducting from the fog light to the filter. Can't see how this would be worse than the standard airbox and shouldn't heat soak. I could be eating my words soon haha. I'd really like one of those 3d printed ducting things for the fog light hole that a guy was selling on here to mount the ducting. Seems to be the tidiest option.
av4625
Paid Member
Little/Big update:
The car is now off axle stands for the first time since December!
Both seats are back in with the harnesses on the harness bar. Got my camera mounted to the cage, hoping to get better footage than when it was mounted to the passenger seat.
Got a small battery mounted behind the passenger seat, I'm happy with how this turned out as it is nice and tidy.
Got a hans device at autosport international now that I have a cage and picked up new hans harnesses for the drivers side. Moved my wider harnesses to the passenger side.
Got the new footplate that Rentune have made. Its really nice and sturdy. Didn't like my carbon footplate as I was always scared of breaking it getting in and out as the way it was mounted wasn't great.
Removed all the sound deadening from the car, this was slightly easier than I thought it would be!
Those rust spots at the drains are annoying me, need to get that tidied up.
I put the existing positive battery terminal in a little junction box thing so that it doesn't short on anything in the engine bay. I got some 3mm thick plastic and screwed it to the gearbox and screwed the junction box to it. made a bracket to hold the fuse box and cable tied the other (relay?) box to it, this could be tidier, need to think of something better.
Got the induction kit in with a bracket and its fed from the fog light.
Some trackcardoorcards for the back (still need some holes drilled and 2 more screws each)
This is what it looks like on the eibach springs and early 200 cup shocks.
Got the wheels aligned as we had the hole front apart and also put on new outer track rod ends. The measurements seem to be pretty consistent at the back which is good.
When driving to the tyre place to get the alignment I was expecting the car to be really harsh with the new springs and all the powerflex bushings in the arms and back axel. But it really wasnt. I feel it was almost harsher with the cup springs (weird).
The car sounds good with the toyo manifold, induction kit and non res scorpion cat back. It is quite loud now though. One issue I had, twice when I was out the engine management flashed a few times then went out. What could that be? The manifold? The fuel is probably a bit dead as it is from October, although it is super unleaded.
edit: also has a new precat lambda sensor
The car is now off axle stands for the first time since December!
Both seats are back in with the harnesses on the harness bar. Got my camera mounted to the cage, hoping to get better footage than when it was mounted to the passenger seat.
Got a small battery mounted behind the passenger seat, I'm happy with how this turned out as it is nice and tidy.
Got a hans device at autosport international now that I have a cage and picked up new hans harnesses for the drivers side. Moved my wider harnesses to the passenger side.
Got the new footplate that Rentune have made. Its really nice and sturdy. Didn't like my carbon footplate as I was always scared of breaking it getting in and out as the way it was mounted wasn't great.
Removed all the sound deadening from the car, this was slightly easier than I thought it would be!
Those rust spots at the drains are annoying me, need to get that tidied up.
I put the existing positive battery terminal in a little junction box thing so that it doesn't short on anything in the engine bay. I got some 3mm thick plastic and screwed it to the gearbox and screwed the junction box to it. made a bracket to hold the fuse box and cable tied the other (relay?) box to it, this could be tidier, need to think of something better.
Got the induction kit in with a bracket and its fed from the fog light.
Some trackcardoorcards for the back (still need some holes drilled and 2 more screws each)
This is what it looks like on the eibach springs and early 200 cup shocks.
Got the wheels aligned as we had the hole front apart and also put on new outer track rod ends. The measurements seem to be pretty consistent at the back which is good.
When driving to the tyre place to get the alignment I was expecting the car to be really harsh with the new springs and all the powerflex bushings in the arms and back axel. But it really wasnt. I feel it was almost harsher with the cup springs (weird).
The car sounds good with the toyo manifold, induction kit and non res scorpion cat back. It is quite loud now though. One issue I had, twice when I was out the engine management flashed a few times then went out. What could that be? The manifold? The fuel is probably a bit dead as it is from October, although it is super unleaded.
edit: also has a new precat lambda sensor
Attachments
av4625
Paid Member
Always thought when I was in harnesses that the steering wheel was a bit far away. Especially when you see how close the wheel is to the driver in a WRC car for example. Got this spacer from BG they are quite expensive for what it is and I could probably go a little more than 40mm but didn’t want to spend anymore on it.
I’m going to look into how hard it is to drop the steering wheel down a bit by adding spacers to the column studs as I’d like it a little lower too.
Was out in the car yesterday and it is very loud without sound deadening and the manifold etc etc especially at 4000rpm on the motorway, sounds awesome when your on it though.
I’m going to look into how hard it is to drop the steering wheel down a bit by adding spacers to the column studs as I’d like it a little lower too.
Was out in the car yesterday and it is very loud without sound deadening and the manifold etc etc especially at 4000rpm on the motorway, sounds awesome when your on it though.
Super work. Have my own 99% there after a winter front end refresh that turned into a new Sabelt Seat, Steering wheel, Rad Support, New Calipers and other unnecessary parts that I just wanted to refresh!
Please post your progress on lowering the steering column.
Keep up the good work.
Please post your progress on lowering the steering column.
Keep up the good work.
av4625
Paid Member
A few weekends ago Chris from EFI came over to Ireland to do some mapping.
Got the Clio mapped and it is much better than it was, especially after changing the manifold and induction kit. Seems to be sharper throughout the rev range, I also like the few extra revs that I have
The car when cold is just like driving a normal car now lol, no kangarooing or messing around.
Sadly the dyno over here read very low and also read wheel horsepower. The first Clio on got about 131 whp and he was wondering why it was so low, mine then got 135 whp. The numbers are low but I don't care as it feels awesome and the graph looks good. A mk2 meg with bolt on mods and bigger injectors got ~180whp so everything was quite low.
I got some MK3 meg calipers as they are a good price on RPD atm, much cheaper than the Clios calipers strangely.
I will get discs, spacers, bolts and pads when more coins become available lol
Got the Clio mapped and it is much better than it was, especially after changing the manifold and induction kit. Seems to be sharper throughout the rev range, I also like the few extra revs that I have
The car when cold is just like driving a normal car now lol, no kangarooing or messing around.
Sadly the dyno over here read very low and also read wheel horsepower. The first Clio on got about 131 whp and he was wondering why it was so low, mine then got 135 whp. The numbers are low but I don't care as it feels awesome and the graph looks good. A mk2 meg with bolt on mods and bigger injectors got ~180whp so everything was quite low.
I got some MK3 meg calipers as they are a good price on RPD atm, much cheaper than the Clios calipers strangely.
I will get discs, spacers, bolts and pads when more coins become available lol
Snap! I did the same with the calipers a few months back. Too good of a deal to say no to. I know of an engineering company who do the whole lot (redrilled PCD on MK3 Megane discs, centre bore spigot ring, spacers and bolts) if you're interested.A few weekends ago Chris from EFI came over to Ireland to do some mapping.
Got the Clio mapped and it is much better than it was, especially after changing the manifold and induction kit. Seems to be sharper throughout the rev range, I also like the few extra revs that I have
The car when cold is just like driving a normal car now lol, no kangarooing or messing around.
Sadly the dyno over here read very low and also read wheel horsepower. The first Clio on got about 131 whp and he was wondering why it was so low, mine then got 135 whp. The numbers are low but I don't care as it feels awesome and the graph looks good. A mk2 meg with bolt on mods and bigger injectors got ~180whp so everything was quite low.
View attachment 138953
View attachment 138954
I got some MK3 meg calipers as they are a good price on RPD atm, much cheaper than the Clios calipers strangely.
I will get discs, spacers, bolts and pads when more coins become available lol
View attachment 138952
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av4625
Paid Member
I was going to head down to see the dyno work being done I did not think it was going ahead with all the virus stuff going on I would like to know if there is a lot of difference after the mapping with driveability. With all the sitting about at the moment I think I will put on the full Akrapovic system, the middle section is sitting in the box new the rear I already had. As far as dyno numbers are concerned don't worry its more about the curve and if the numbers increase not how high they are.
av4625
Paid Member
The car is so much better to drive! I didn’t think it would be such a difference to be honest. It was lean in the middle and rich up top. I could tell it was a bit rich before as the pops and bangs werent crisp and sounded fuely.
I really notice, if you lift off halfway through the rev range and then get back on it there is no hesitation, it just wants to go.
If it had of been a few days later I’d say it wouldn’t have gone ahead with the virus stuff and all.
av4625
Paid Member
Got steering column lowering spacers from Josh Wheeler of FaceBook. These look dear initially at £20 for some spacers. But if they werent threaded it would be a nightmare to get the column back up and hold the spacers/washers. It isn't exactly easy to get the column back up as it is quite heavy and in an awkward place to try and lift. I actually put a jack in the footwell to get it back up in place.
Only problem is when the wheel is at the lowest place the top of the wheel covers the dials.
When you move the wheel up with the manual adjustment it goes back to the lowest place without the spacers. So the spacers lower the wheel by the same amount of the full travel manual up and down movement if that makes sense.
Only problem is when the wheel is at the lowest place the top of the wheel covers the dials.
When you move the wheel up with the manual adjustment it goes back to the lowest place without the spacers. So the spacers lower the wheel by the same amount of the full travel manual up and down movement if that makes sense.
av4625
Paid Member
I've always wanted a racecar/rally car since I was a child so thought I'd get some stickers to make my Clio look more like a racecar haha
I wouldn't go near my Megane with stickers but I don't mine with the Clio, this is what its for I guess and I think they look pretty good and I guess still a bit subtle. Probably not to everyones liking but here it is.
They were a nightmare to put on and just as i was finishing on the first side the lovely sunny weather turned into a down pour!! Nearly cried.
I wouldn't go near my Megane with stickers but I don't mine with the Clio, this is what its for I guess and I think they look pretty good and I guess still a bit subtle. Probably not to everyones liking but here it is.
They were a nightmare to put on and just as i was finishing on the first side the lovely sunny weather turned into a down pour!! Nearly cried.
av4625
Paid Member
Haven't posted in quite a while mostly as lockdown as stopped sprints etc
I have done a few things to the car so thought I'd update.
I fitted the Megane calipers and Godspeed two piece disks. I decided to run PBS race pads which is the same as what I run in the Clio calipers. The difference the bigger calipers and disks made was quite big!
I put my 3D printer to some use and printed a radio blanking plate and installed a 6 pole kill switch. Mostly for isolating the battery when the car isn't moving.
We have had a few issues with the starter, its been out about 3-4 times now, when I got the car the wiring was dodgy and then the starter was stopping etc etc We decided to get a second hand heat shield and put it on. Wasn't that happy with how it fitted as it clips on but very badly so we strapped it on. At a test day we were getting electrical problems on track and going round a high speed left hand corner I'd loose power steering (quite scary). In the pits when trying to start it we got an electrical burning smell and the battery got very hot. When I got home I realised it was the heat shield that was shorting thought it was a bigger issue at the track and had to get trailered home.
Over winter I got a 3J diff, lightweight flywheel and new clutch to put in. Along with new synchros and box bearings and all the usual parts. Didn't really get many pictures of this.
Added a braided clutch line with damper delete as well. When the car was apart we took the sump off as it looked like it had a small leak and replaced the seal. The oil pickup had a small bit of rubber/sealer in the pickup so it was good to get rid of that. We put the new billet powerflex dogbone mount on. The size of the bolt for the side at the back (i think) must be different on different cars. Mine was M14 and the hole in the powerflex mount was smaller and the same size as the hole at the front so we had to drill it out to make it fit. We also put a trackfocusdirect steering rack bush in, this was literally the hardest thing about everything we did while doing the gearbox and everything else. Everyone says its a 2 min job and they are doing it while everything is in the car, we had the rack out. We struggled to get the old one out and then struggled even more to get the new one in. Terrible job. Also changed the inner track rod ends while we were at it.
I designed another fog light air duct and printed it, bit like the one that the guy makes on here but more material to clamp ducting on and a ridge so it doesn't come off. Printed that as well.
I made some shift lights and printed a box to hold the electronics for it.
Added a tow strap
Some action pictures for the few times we got out last year!
I have done a few things to the car so thought I'd update.
I fitted the Megane calipers and Godspeed two piece disks. I decided to run PBS race pads which is the same as what I run in the Clio calipers. The difference the bigger calipers and disks made was quite big!
I put my 3D printer to some use and printed a radio blanking plate and installed a 6 pole kill switch. Mostly for isolating the battery when the car isn't moving.
We have had a few issues with the starter, its been out about 3-4 times now, when I got the car the wiring was dodgy and then the starter was stopping etc etc We decided to get a second hand heat shield and put it on. Wasn't that happy with how it fitted as it clips on but very badly so we strapped it on. At a test day we were getting electrical problems on track and going round a high speed left hand corner I'd loose power steering (quite scary). In the pits when trying to start it we got an electrical burning smell and the battery got very hot. When I got home I realised it was the heat shield that was shorting
thought it was a bigger issue at the track and had to get trailered home.Over winter I got a 3J diff, lightweight flywheel and new clutch to put in. Along with new synchros and box bearings and all the usual parts. Didn't really get many pictures of this.
Added a braided clutch line with damper delete as well. When the car was apart we took the sump off as it looked like it had a small leak and replaced the seal. The oil pickup had a small bit of rubber/sealer in the pickup so it was good to get rid of that. We put the new billet powerflex dogbone mount on. The size of the bolt for the side at the back (i think) must be different on different cars. Mine was M14 and the hole in the powerflex mount was smaller and the same size as the hole at the front so we had to drill it out to make it fit. We also put a trackfocusdirect steering rack bush in, this was literally the hardest thing about everything we did while doing the gearbox and everything else. Everyone says its a 2 min job and they are doing it while everything is in the car, we had the rack out. We struggled to get the old one out and then struggled even more to get the new one in. Terrible job. Also changed the inner track rod ends while we were at it.
I designed another fog light air duct and printed it, bit like the one that the guy makes on here but more material to clamp ducting on and a ridge so it doesn't come off. Printed that as well.
I made some shift lights and printed a box to hold the electronics for it.
Added a tow strap
Some action pictures for the few times we got out last year!
