Our Intake

Any heat reflective tape placed on the rear side of the airbox ( facing the manifold ) stays on for about 10 minutes, i've tried lol.

The best alternative i could come up with is a DEI heat resistant sleeve around the inlet pipe:
Cool beans :smile:

Will speak to him soon, mite have an idea as he works with stuff totaling thousands of degrees so a bit of manifold heat should be an easy solution :smiley:
 
Plastic has crap thermal properties, and the amount of air passing through it will surely aid cooling?

I'd also have thought if the valve is vac controlled, it will be done via revs not ECU detecting load??

i.e. it opens at 5000RPM+, so possibly you could unbolt, bend it up so you can see down it and have someone rev the engine to see what happens?
 
It doesn't hold onto heat, it may get warm when standing still, but 30 seconds of xx litres of air passing through it internally and the natural flow of air through the engine bay will have it stone cold again.
 

Foxspeed

"the new red baron"
Moderator
Plastic has crap thermal properties, and the amount of air passing through it will surely aid cooling?

I'd also have thought if the valve is vac controlled, it will be done via revs not ECU detecting load??

i.e. it opens at 5000RPM+, so possibly you could unbolt, bend it up so you can see down it and have someone rev the engine to see what happens?
it is vacuum controlled but the actuator valve (item 7) is ecu controlled - i put a vacuum guage on mine and just reving it up etc does nothing - i needed to try it on the road
 
Ahh, I didn't think it'd be that sophisticated. Interesting.

I wonder if the ECU detects it isn't working the actuator then if the valve is removed and reacts in any way? Even if the pipe is plugged??
 

Foxspeed

"the new red baron"
Moderator
Ahh, I didn't think it'd be that sophisticated. Interesting.

I wonder if the ECU detects it isn't working the actuator then if the valve is removed and reacts in any way? Even if the pipe is plugged??
i am sure kevo disconnected it and it put the ecu light on - i plugged his vacumm pipe for him and we left the valve (electrical) connected and all was fine
 
Yeah, I've been running mine with the valve removed and pipe plugged for ages, no ECU lights but I often wonder if it is pulling the timing or altering fuelling as a result of seeing a different air value to what it expects? Most days it feels fine, but every now and again it can be flat on cam. That could just be in my mind though.

I'll maybe refit it and run my pipework to the valve instead for a few weeks, see how it compares?
 
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What does anyone think about just removing the resonator and fitting a cold air feed to the valve?
 
I didn't know the resonator was there.

What are the little holes for on top of the main CAF? Surely it would be better if they were blocked.
 
I didn't know the resonator was there.

What are the little holes for on top of the main CAF? Surely it would be better if they were blocked.
That holes are there to create some turbulence (i think) because with that we get more torque and power...

With the car running on normal street above 55~60mph you do not need to be concern about engine bay temps....



Thanks
 
Just re-inforces what i have been thinking that the factory setup is best left alone! seems that the soundproofing valve allows an extra 40% air consumption and if ecu controlled surely this would mean fuelling and ignition optimised as such probably in parallel with the intake cam timing swing. as such i would say jacking the flap open all the time would deffo affect the performance IMO for the worse in the low end unless the ecu been properly recalibrated to suit.

does anyone have the tech manual for our cars?
 
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Raptor6767

Gold Member
I've found the Clio V6 Ph2 airbox as the best solution for our car.

+5bhp and it revs so much better >5000rpm.
 
Well guys, can help you here with some "engeneering by se germanz" :wink:

In the German 200 Forum a guy detached the valve and mounted it with a longer hose so he could check how it works whilst driving. Heres The video in which you see the rev counter and the valve.

Glad i could help :wink:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NKk_nzDDBY
 
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ryan197

POW right in the kisser
Platinum Member
i would say more air below 4k equals more fuel so over fueling or may even confuse the ecu, or ecu will learn round and it wont be any different
 
I think the problem will be too that the motor will suck in warm air. The short Intake ends in a area where usually will be warm air, when revving higher u usually will be faster so the air circulation will be probably improved in this area a bit so it wont get that many warm air.

Second you should think about the intake ways has to do with torque too, so i bymyself wont touch. I think theyver thought about this, not just in a noise reduction way. and i dont think the noise gains are so good that it would be a have to.