LY200 - too loud or blow up again, taking bets!

cheers dude, yeah very happy as I know that's easily as much power (ok maybe not low/midrange) as the last engine, given the heat and on those rollers.
So the choice to put the ITB's on to make up for removing forged pistons and what not, has at last proven to pay off. Same power (certainly where it matters in the rev range for track) and a bottom end that is both cheap to replace and can be used every day without service life implications etc, is absolutely perfect.

Just want to drive the thing already, nearly there.....! :smiley:
 
  • Like
Reactions: lewishunter98

RossWoods93

Platinum Member
Good mate thanks, if you can believe it!!!

220bhp/171ftlb - that was whilst very hot after mapping so your typical power run shootout on a much cooler engine etc would have a few more on top. Also the T'n'R dyno is spot on, so it'll make 220 anywhere basically (I can think of a place or 2 it'd probably read 230! haha) - all in all, a bloody good result!

Can't drive it yet til I get an MOT on it though! Only a couple of bits to sort for that (horn and a 'suitable' exhaust) - then I can get the datalogger wiring sorted finally :smile:

Had a watch last night popped up on my social media, sounded great.

Must be chuffed with them figures as well!
 
Cheers, yeah pleased for sure, making at the wheels now what you'd expect stock at the fly. I'll get it back to Surrey Rolling Road at some point as I've got base lines for the stock engine and 1st forged engine there. It's a shame the last one never lasted long enough to make it there - as that would have been the real interesting one to have somewhat accurate comparison with.
 
No problem! haha.

Tbh there is no rational or objective reason to go this route, I'd steer anyone towards a Supercharger if looking to put a reasonable amount of money down and isn't currently invested in any tuning route prior. More power, less money, less hassle, no noise issues on track, and easily sellable too no doubt.

That being said, there are some people who just 'want' NA/ITBs and nothing else will suffice, I was unquestionably one of those people, a few years and kickings later... but after yesterday I think I am one again! Final verdict withstanding driving the thing again though.

I guess a very quick black and white view would be; if someone asks the question of ITBs, then my answer would be no they're not the route for you, for reasons simply that you're asking question in the first place. (that makes sense to me anyway!)
 
  • Like
Reactions: jasekid and suj

RSPez

Paid Member
Good mate thanks, if you can believe it!!!

220bhp/171ftlb - that was whilst very hot after mapping so your typical power run shootout on a much cooler engine etc would have a few more on top. Also the T'n'R dyno is spot on, so it'll make 220 anywhere basically (I can think of a place or 2 it'd probably read 230! haha) - all in all, a bloody good result!

Can't drive it yet til I get an MOT on it though! Only a couple of bits to sort for that (horn and a 'suitable' exhaust) - then I can get the datalogger wiring sorted finally :smile:

So pleased for you Rich and it sounds the absolute nuts. Love how NA engines sound. Can’t wait till you can drive it give us some more videos/feedback.

❤
Pez
 
  • Like
Reactions: sevenfourate

sevenfourate

Devotee of OCD
Paid Member
So pleased for you Rich and it sounds the absolute nuts. Love how NA engines sound. Can’t wait till you can drive it give us some more videos/feedback.

❤
Pez

This.

Videos is ‘all’ - we the jealous - require now Rich. I won’t sleep until it’s done. Only you can save me :smile:

LOVED the last / only one I saw of you on track. And remember the eagerness of pick-up, the acceleration, noise and rawness - all accentuated by your lower final drive. ITB’s will knock this up a level or two even more so !

***Almost reminded me of a hill-climb car.

Great stuff buddy. Kudos, good luck and keep it rubber side down....
 
Cheers guys and yep be plenty of vids when I can get out in it!

Shuz the pick-up/throttle response now is un-friggin-real! I've only really manoeuvred it a couple of times and given it a mild blipping, but it's breath on it levels of response! I've got the a/c delete now with a light weight crank pulley, along with the same TTV flywheel - which I'm sure all helps, but really you can't beat a cable in my opinion for that sort of thing. No DBW - especially oem setups running MAP etc - can come close.
 
Good to hear!

When's the plan to get it MOT'd?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
Close, got the horn working - turned out to be a poor connection on the horn itself, so got some electrical cleaner and now that's working.
Bumper's 99% fitted now, just need the 4 screws at the very bottom that connect the arch liners - they're on order. - Took a dremel and removed that strange protrusion in the grille area on the left, little bit of extra airflow to the filter!
Which just leaves the exhaust, currently no cat. I've got a sports cat cut with the correct flange to suit the manifold, but then nothing that fits behind it - tempted to get 1mtr of flexible hose and flipping side exit it! Not sure if you need to be below a certain noise for an MOT though?!

However the coolant header tank only has 1inch of water in it - every time I've moved the car there has been a puddle under it, so something isn't right with the cooling system. Fucking piece of shit - don't know if a line is leaking or it's just this shitty header tank with an extra drain hose by the cap?? Standard system is completely sealed so not sure why I have a drain hose at the cap that just vents to the floor :\ ??
 
  • Like
Reactions: lewishunter98
Quite a tidy job I think and actually managed not to dremel my hands this time. Literally last couple of times I've used a dremel I've caught my hand with a cut off disc!IMG_20190630_160405.jpg


Little vid of the idle, touch lumpier than the dbw setup but still very stable. Would be cooler to have it lumpier still, but no valve clearance any more for big cams :neutral:

 

lewishunter98

Paid Member
Quite a tidy job I think and actually managed not to dremel my hands this time. Literally last couple of times I've used a dremel I've caught my hand with a cut off disc!IMG_20190630_160405.jpg


Little vid of the idle, touch lumpier than the dbw setup but still very stable. Would be cooler to have it lumpier still, but no valve clearance any more for big cams :neutral:

Seeing videos of it up and running makes me want to see it even more

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: TB Rich
It's more than a bit annoying needing to sort the mot before driving it!! Really wanna mad max it and take it out for a spin - but I'm about 30 seconds from the local town police station so that's def not possible!!

I think the list of jobs is very minor now though:
  • Bumper screws
  • exhaust/cat
  • MOT/tax
  • Sort coolant leak
  • Take back to sort wiring (and then can setup datalogger)
  • Was getting a low battery warning on the rollers - despite the alt charging the battery - so it's likely this is related to the loom (what a fucking surprise!) as the plug is changed on it to one done by the loom place. Needs investigating further anyway.
  • sort gear knob: I'm missing the spring under it, but when I try to pull the knob off it leaves behind it's plastic inner on the stick! And no way that's coming off without cutting it!
    So I've currently got a forge dump valve spring cut down and that is big enough to go over the plastic innder and sit on the outside of the lift up reverse collar and under the gear knob. Whereas the standard plastic spring is narrower and sit's inside the lift up collar.
    So the forge spring does the job.... it's just a little stiff! - So I need to either cut off the inner from the stick to allow me to put the correct spring back in, but then that will probably gash up the plastic inner rendering my RS gear knob useless, and I don't want to pay £100 for another one. OR, option B, my forge spring I'm using is the stiffest red one, so I could replace it with the lightest pressure green one, cut that down to size and should be easier to lift up to reverse and not risk damaging the gear knob inner! Almost tempted to try the yellow forge spring.. it's the second lightest so about half the pressure of the red one on there...and of course it's yellow so what little of it you see - would at least look like it was meant to be there!?!
 
  • Like
Reactions: lewishunter98

rSilva

Paid Member
...
Standard system is completely sealed so not sure why I have a drain hose at the cap that just vents to the floor :\ ??
By not having a drain on the OEM cap doesn't mean it's sealed. Else, something that would cause a pressure increase (i.e. bad head gasket) would mean blown pipes, in the best case.

How high and big is your tank at the moment? It might just want to sit with that level. Leave it be and just check if it keeps dropping. If not, then all is well.
That or put the drain tube into some bottle to check if that is the leak source due to low rating on the cap.
 
By not having a drain on the OEM cap doesn't mean it's sealed. Else, something that would cause a pressure increase (i.e. bad head gasket) would mean blown pipes, in the best case.

How high and big is your tank at the moment? It might just want to sit with that level. Leave it be and just check if it keeps dropping. If not, then all is well.
That or put the drain tube into some bottle to check if that is the leak source due to low rating on the cap.
Thanks for the reply. I've done some reading and as you say the standard cap will release pressure if it overheats - I guess in the standard setup it would just vent steam/coolant over the engine bay?

I think my tank is probably in the 1L to 1.5L region, I'll measure the outside of it in a bit and work it out exactly. And there is currently about 1inch of fluid in it. It's mounted highest point on the side of the head basically. It has a 19-21 psi Stant cap on it, so I believe matches the standard setup which I recall being a 20 psi cap?

I've just had the correct coolant arrive now so will top up the tank to half way (or as close as I can get it given it's metal and you can't really tell too easily!). And then yeah I think if I just put my current drain tube into a bottle it will confirm if it was dumping fluid from it.

I was thinking perhaps I had (maybe still do?) and air lock? Could that cause a problem with the level and cap etc? It seems odd that the level would be happy with the tank basically empty? I would have thought getting the tank to sit at half way full should be the aim?

Cheers
 
Well I'm not sure it's coolant that was on the floor now or not. Because I took some out the tank with a pipette and it was clearly a very strong pink colour, I tasted it (as you do!) and very sweet and def not like what was on the floor in the garage the last couple of times. That was a yellow tinge and didn't taste of anything! But had a slightly slick feel more than just water would have.

I'm wondering if the low tank level is a complete red herring now and the coolant system is fine. Perhaps it's some left over A/C refrigerant coming out where that was removed, as of course you're left with a couple of holes on the bulkhead. Now I did make a cover for that but I'm under no illusion that I've made a water tight seal. The A/C stuff I recall being yellow - which was the slight colour tinge of the puddle on the floor.

I think I can probably just top the tank to half way and be done with this perhaps.... however, I was told what coolant was in there and so spent £30 getting it delivered, however open the bottle and it's blue! Total waste of money and I'm still none the wiser what is in the car. Could drain and flush but I really can't be arsed and nor should I have to.

I ended up buying some more Aerocatch rubbers too which turned up today, £7 from Merlin Motorsport in the end and now my bonnet is properly secured. It just seemed like waiting for my ones to turn up was, well, suffice to say for £7 this was the quicker option.
 

Similar Thread Suggestions

Thread starter Similar threads Forum Replies Date
Zeezal Projects/Progress Threads 7
tkoh12 Clios For Sale 0
CL10 PAZ Spotted 0
tkoh12 Spotted 0
JMR Clio 200 Area 124