LY200 - too loud or blow up again, taking bets!

[matthewson]

Just read this thread, it seems like you've certainly spent a lot of £££, it would have been easy to go with a Meg engine but where would the fun be in that.

It's nice to do something different to the norm, it keeps the car pure to its roots being NA. I'm sure you'll get there and make the power you want!

Good luck!

 

[litchy]

Yeah it's too late now though litchy, I'm 7 large in, although that does inlcude labour, clutch, steel fly and of course I no longer need a cambelt/water pump service this year. I figured about £1200-£1500 if I did those 2 things and bought the same parts. So lets call it £5500 in on 'tuning', but still if I bail now I'm going to end up going postal!

Just been speaking to a chap who runs 405's (on here in fact, Proil or similar), they are supposed to run std timing according to cat - but apparently it wouldnt map right at all with out being re-timmed. Useless catcams again (massive trend here!), I used to be such a catcams fanboi, not now at all. Buy Shrick, no - buy a jap car!

Anyway I'm gaining confidence timing is everything here. Couple it with a 64mm TB and a decat for good measure and I think we'll be cooking

Fair play. mine made 215bhp on schricks. Car was mapped by RST.

 

[Trophymad]

The 230 hp access engine uses std pulleys there is a timing tool that fits in the cams part number 77 11 162 463 uses std exhaust cam I think and a different inlet cam part number 77 11 162 394

 

[litchy]

This is what I mean about the step change in getting more power. It cost me £1800 to get from 196 to 215bhp. Then maybe another 5-6k for 15bhp? The enlarged TB Paul at RST on rollers gained nothing. The V6 airbox, the same. who's set it up to date?

 

[Raptor6767]

Before and after just the V6 airbox.

 

[jacool]

The 230 hp access engine uses std pulleys there is a timing tool that fits in the cams part number 77 11 162 463 uses std exhaust cam I think and a different inlet cam part number 77 11 162 394

230 hp engine is a maxi one - it has different both inlet and exhaust cam, access engine on the other hand has 200-something hp (I reckon 201 hp) and has different inlet cam while exhaust cam being standard from a road car, as far as i know.

 

[Azagedon]

It was static at the traffic lights but I did think its quite haha . Bang in a resonated centre section? You car droning last time when I was following it on the motorway can't imagine what it's like inside now!!

 

[TB Rich]

230 hp engine is a maxi one - it has different both inlet and exhaust cam, access engine on the other hand has 200-something hp (I reckon 201 hp) and has different inlet cam while exhaust cam being standard from a road car, as far as i know.

Correct, I compiled a list of part numbers ages ago. The only thing I don't have is any of the standard numbers.

Interesting points:

• Same TB
• Same lower inlet. The trouble is even if the part number is the same, I don't know if it has been ported in anyway?
• All 3 R3's appear to use a different upper inlet?
• Head appears the same upto Maxi (again don't know if ported at all - presume not hence Evo having new casting)
• Valaves all the same.
• Injectors different on Maxi and Maxi Evo

	Standard	Cup Racer	R3 Access	R3 Maxi (230cv)	R3 Maxi Evo (250cv)
Head		77 11 160 276 77 11 162 652 (late?)	77 11 160 276	77 11 160 276	77 11 162 554
Inlet Valve		77 11 155 375	77 11 155 375	77 11 155 375	77 11 155 375
Exhaust Valve		77 11 155 377	77 11 155 377	77 11 155 377	77 11 155 377
Inlet Cam		77 11 160 279	77 11 162 394	77 11 160 675	77 11 162 502
Exhaust Cam		77 11 160 280	77 11 160 280	77 11 160 676	77 11 162 503
Piston		77 11 160 270 (B) 77 11 160 448 (C)	77 11 160 270 (B) 77 11 160 448 (C)	77 11 160 678	77 11 162 507
Rod		77 11 160 272	77 11 160 272	77 11 160 272	77 11 162 506
Rod Bolt		77 11 126 624	82 00 425 460 77 11 126 624 (Option)	82 00 425 460 77 11 126 624 (Option)	77 11 126 624
Crank		77 11 160 269	77 11 160 269	77 11 160 269	77 11 162 505
Flywheel		77 11 162 651	77 11 162 430 (Flywheel) 77 11 162 519 (Flywheel+Assembly)	77 11 162 430 (Flywheel) 77 11 162 519 (Flywheel+Assembly)	77 11 162 519
Inlet Manifold (Lower)		77 11 160 328	77 11 160 328	77 11 160 328	77 11 160 328
Inlet Manifold (Upper)		77 11 160 286	77 11 160 717	77 11 160 717	77 11 160 717
Throttle Body		77 11 160 249	77 11 160 249	77 11 160 249	77 11 160 249
Injectors		77 11 160 281	77 11 160 281	77 11 160 680	77 11 160 680
Airbox		82 00 199 158 (Box) 77 11 160 218 (Hose) 77 11 158 636 (Filter) 77 11 160 217 (Support) 77 01 407 069 (Clip) 77 01 407 070 (Clip)	82 00 199 158 (Box) 77 11 160 218 (Hose) 77 11 158 636 (Filter) 77 11 160 217 (Support) 77 01 407 069 (Clip) 77 01 407 070 (Clip)	82 00 199 158 (Box) 77 11 160 218 (Hose) 77 11 158 636 (Filter) 77 11 160 217 (Support) 77 01 407 069 (Clip) 77 01 407 070 (Clip)	77 11 162 516 77 11 158 636 (Filter) 77 11 162 487 77 11 162 495 77 11 156 647 77 03 083 402 (x2) 77 11 162 494
Exhaust Manifold		77 11 160 130	77 11 160 130	77 11 160 646 (Headers) 77 11 160 647 (Y Pipe)	77 11 160 646 (Headers) 77 11 160 647 (Y Pipe)
Exhaust System		77 11 160 987 (System) 77 11 160 990 (Tail pipe)	77 11 160 987 (System) 77 11 160 990 (Tail pipe)	77 11 160 792 (System) 77 11 162 472 (Tail pipe)	77 11 160 792 (System) 77 11 162 472 (Tail pipe)

 

[TB Rich]

It was static at the traffic lights but I did think its quite haha . Bang in a resonated centre section? You car droning last time when I was following it on the motorway can't imagine what it's like inside now!!

Not really the room as it stands with the cat etc. Trouble is there is a slight kink in the system which might make placement tricky.



To start with though I just need the cat swapping for a decat to confirm there is no issues with it's placement in the system. Power comes first, silencing most def second!

Once it's making the goods though I'll get Mike Stokes and see if they can build me a whole new centre from manifold back. The other option is replacing the rear silencer from the Supersprint 'race' to 'road'. - But thats more weight so want to avoid that option if pos.

 

[TB Rich]

Just read this thread, it seems like you've certainly spent a lot of £££, it would have been easy to go with a Meg engine but where would the fun be in that.

It's nice to do something different to the norm, it keeps the car pure to its roots being NA. I'm sure you'll get there and make the power you want!

Good luck!

Don't like turbos to be honest. I conisdered buying a mk6 R instead but just doesnt really excite me. I also considered getting rid of the Clio and then doing all this to an FN2, kinda wish I did now. But before I took the plunge I thought it a bit pointless to swap. Now a genuine 250bhp and a diff as standard sounds like heaven !!!

 

[MikeLYR27]

LY200 NA forged rebuild

Don't like turbos to be honest. I conisdered buying a mk6 R instead but just doesnt really excite me. I also considered getting rid of the Clio and then doing all this to an FN2, kinda wish I did now. But before I took the plunge I thought it a bit pointless to swap. Now a genuine 250bhp and a diff as standard sounds like heaven !!!

You should of listened lol!!

Been there and done it.

 

[TB Rich]

Just ordered some 330mm discs through Cazan and some Mtec grooved rears with black finish.
Already had a new set of Yellowstuff fronts waiting and rears a set of OE grade Mintex.

I'll be stripping the front and rears down and regreasing the rear slide pins with correct lithium based grease (not copper). If any of the piston seals look tired though I'll take them somewhere to be done. I hate fadging around with fluid etc.

The 330mm rotors will also be stripped off the bells first and treating them to a black rust proof finish like the rears.

~£700 I wasn't expecting to have to spend whilst still needing to solve the power issues!!

 

[Yiannis197]

When are you planning to go to RST Rich?

 

[Stephenvenning]

Rear slide pins use silicone grease. High temperature and hydrophobic. Unless you mean the shims the pads sit on.

 

[Pav]

Rear slide pins use silicone grease. High temperature and hydrophobic. Unless you mean the shims the pads sit on.

thats what i used..just got some from ebay..not that expensive either..

 

[TB Rich]

When are you planning to go to RST Rich?

Hoping to get the car in this week or otherwise next for a decat section built to be interchangeable with the cat (will ask Paul to back to back them). Also getting a middle silencer installed.

Trying to sort out the inlet manifold porting, might be easiest if I buy a spare on eBay and send that off, dont know what the turn around time on the manifold is yet.

Trying to sort the v6 airbox inlet pipe out. Renault say its on back order, a chap on here thinks he can get them but its gone quiet. I have emailed Monster Sport Europe and will try R Sport too. Who knows when I can get one though!

Until those 3 pieces are sorted I'm not booking anything anywhere

Rear slide pins use silicone grease. High temperature and hydrophobic. Unless you mean the shims the pads sit on.

thats what i used..just got some from ebay..not that expensive either..

Yeah for the rear slide pins, back of the pads and shims are just copper grease normally.
I looked online and found a few poeple using and recommending, Comma CV Lith-Moly grease, so I was planning to use that? Haven't done it yet as the discs will all be tuning up hopefully this week.

Is that not the correct stuff? If not, can you point me in the right direction. Cheers

 

[Pav]

used 2 brands and both work well..
Liqui Moly Silicone Grease and Carlube...both are around £6 from ebay...
hope it helps

 

[litchy]

The V6 pipe I found was useful as you need the different sizes at each end for the Inlet and TB. However, the bend in the pipe means the airbox doesn't sit right. The V6 airbox is mounted differently on the cup cars than the standard car. Think it was to do with where the gearbox sits. When you fit the pipe, it won't be ideally where you want it and the airbox will be 2' higher of the gearbox mount. I'd get a custom pipe made.

That aside, I wouldn't bother with the V6 box, first Paul had it on the rollers and proved there were zero gains to be had. Think he posted it on his FB page. Second therefore it's a lot of work moving the battery for nothing. You also need to remember the cup cars ran with no splash panels so easier to get air into them.

The enlarge TB I think was tested by RST at the same time and equally no gains. At lot of these have been tried and tested already and it's worth reading some of the historical threads on here. It might save you a lot of time, effort, money and even power.....

 

[-Eddie-]

As [MENTION=1286]litchy[/MENTION] says, I remember a printout Paul had put up on the RS Tunimg facebook page where they tested the same car, one with a 64mm TB and then with standard TB. The graph actually favoured the standard TB.
When he was mapping my car he passed comment on the trend for the 64mm TB and basically said they where a waste of time.

 

[Raptor6767]

The V6 pipe I found was useful as you need the different sizes at each end for the Inlet and TB. However, the bend in the pipe means the airbox doesn't sit right. The V6 airbox is mounted differently on the cup cars than the standard car. Think it was to do with where the gearbox sits. When you fit the pipe, it won't be ideally where you want it and the airbox will be 2' higher of the gearbox mount. I'd get a custom pipe made.

Just take out your knife and short the hose on each side by 1 or 2cm.

That aside, I wouldn't bother with the V6 box, first Paul had it on the rollers and proved there were zero gains to be had. Think he posted it on his FB page. Second therefore it's a lot of work moving the battery for nothing. You also need to remember the cup cars ran with no splash panels so easier to get air into them.

I beg to differ. It made a great difference to my car.