LY200 - too loud or blow up again, taking bets!

[TB Rich]

ah nice one, cheers bud.

I've just emailed Pure Motorsport about their system, toss up between that and an Akra. When it's all off the car I need to check the manifold collector inside, where the 'stub' was welded on to recieve the wire donut gasket - need to make sure that it's all perfectly smooth in there - it's the only part I haven't checked myself.

 

[rosscoe]

Right here we go. The connection between the manifold is exactly the same as yours is mate, the Clio 182 spring set up. The silencer on the Akra set up is 330mm away from the join, this is the standard position on the Akra centre section. Just remember if you go the Akra route you'll need to cut about 155mm out of the centre section. I'm thinking about cutting the middle silencer out of it to give a bit more noise on the track, or go for the Aros R3 exhaust....


And you'll see where I have had to extend the front lambda sensor to just in front of the aft sensor, I had to do this as i tried running it without the front one and it was so rich it wasn't funny. then the management light came on too. when it was in for the remap I think they switched them off anyway. If you need any more info gives a shout



nice blued manifold...;-)


How she's sitting today waiting on a **** load of new bits coming..:-(

 

[TB Rich]

When I had no centre silencer it sounded dreadful, raspier than a ****ty 90's honda! The Akra rear cans of course will be different to the Supersprint rear cans - but you have been warned, louder is not always better! I honestly don't think I would have made any sub 100Db track days as it was before either.

I've just booked Combe for a full open pit lane day (15th June), so I'll find out how loud it is now but I'm sure with the centre silencer it'll be fine now. It took the rasp out and overal sounds much nicer, just have that nagging in my mind due to the 10bhp loss it seemed to have incurred. Would be nice to think a new exhaust and sligfht tweek to the map would yeild 220-225bhp - kind of where it should be really.

Very tempted by the PMS exhaust, no centre silencer but a much larger rear. Tbh now I've decided I want bodies I want the exhaust as quiet as possible because induction noise is for me much more favourable.

Cheers for the pic, assume you had a stub welded on to the manifold for the wire donut to sit on. Do you recall if yours was smooth etc or if any kind of lip was introduced?

 

[rosscoe]

I didn't weld anything onto the end of the manifold for the wire donut mate, it fitted onto the standard end just perfectly.

The only thing I welded was the flange so I could connect both bits together.

 

[TB Rich]

What steps did you take then?

Mine came like this:

The manifold flange bolt pitch was too small though for compared to the flange on the 182 sports cat. So the flange on the manifold was cut off and one with a larger bolt spacing was fitted.

I used a genuine Renault 182 donut kit:


The donut though obvioulsy needs to sit over a small extension of pipe, like a factory 182 below:



So the whole thing now looks like this (well not now because I have a decat instead but flanges all the same):



The only thing I need to check really - is that the welding of the flange and 'pipe' for the donut to sit over, is perfectly smooth inside.

So are you not using a wire donut? If not how on earth does it not blow?!

 

[rosscoe]

My manifold is different to that mate at the joint. its as in the picture here.



I didnt have the flange welded onto mine, I had to put one on myself. The 182 donut is the same as on my one. My one was the same as the toyosport and original manifold.

 

[rosscoe]

the same as this mate, my old totysport maniold

 

[TB Rich]

I had the option of flange or standard from Aros like above - I went flange but annoyingly they stuck a pretty small one on there!

So your manifold was essentially the same shape then as the donut, and essentially now you have metal 'D' shaped end of the manifold inside the flared end of the exhaust system.

You should ideally have a wire donut there to ensure a proper seal and facilitate movement, over time you might find that joint will wear badly from the movement the springs allow - normally you'd replace the donut when that happens and away you go. Hopefully long term no damage will occur to either of your ends.

 

[rosscoe]

No mate. My wire donut is over the end of my manifold and the taper end of the donut inside the flared end of the exhaust system. It's all good and the only thing that will wear is the wire gasket donut.

 

[TB Rich]

not sure i get it, as the pic of the aros mani you posted as a strange flared end which is donut looking in shape, so can't see how a donut would fit that? did you cut that off? then slide the flange on further up??

as long as you have a donut all good, im just being a thick ****! might crack MS paint out tomorrow!!

 

[rosscoe]

Lol...my fault for not explaining it correctly mate. To fit the flange I cut it in half then placed it over the manifold then welded it up.
It's a good deal with no leaks.
What's this ITB set up your thinking about then?

 

[TB Rich]

ah ok, I just wasn't expecting the donut to have fitted the end, my donut is straight on the inside and taperd only on the outside edge.

Well I figured if I'm sticking it on a standalone it has to go on bodies. All though my ECU query is going slowly at best... I am wondering if to save mapping costs I just ITB it at the same time rather than first set it up on the single throttle.
In terms of design though I'm going to more than likley base it around Jenvey's but looking currently to use as long as possible manifold with shorter trumpets as you can get a nicer taper and port transition this way. The easier route is a simple short stub of a manifold and then bodies and longer trumpets, but given the tract length will be short regardless, manifold design will be critical.
I'll likley be looking to make contact with Sandy Brown/Colin Satchell to do the manifold (same as their later XU ones which went from short manifold/longer trumpets to longer mani/short trumpets). This also matches SBD's Duratec designs, which I am pretty much going to copy in sizes although probably with a custom depth ITG filter.

I do however want to investigate the Titan ITB's, the images I have seen online show the flange bolt spacing as F4R730, not F4R830. However apparently they do a kit for ours? The TU5 Titan kit Sandy tested he was very positive about the build and quality, so it could be an easy route if they do a kit afterall.

 

[rosscoe]

Hmmm...interesting stuff mate. I'll be watching the progress closely.

Sorry for the dumb question but who's Sandy Brown and Colin Satchwell?

 

[TB Rich]

Couple of chaps who def know their onions. Sandy builds race motors and Colin is fabrication and suspension.

As soon as I get some traction on the ECU front I'll hopefully start moving forwards. aim to have it on ITB's by the end of the year is a realistic target. Got a load of track days etc to run before I fiddle again.

 

[rosscoe]

Same here mate. Once the gearbox is sorted out and the suspension is on that's all the spending finished for a while.
It never ends.

 

[TB Rich]

Oh yeah, it never ends!!

Gearbox I'll do when it fails/needs new syncros. I'll do a shorter final drive for sure and a diff - just not sure which. Probably be Quaife but only because there is nothing else fit and forget. I don't rate Quaife that much based on the one I had in my 106, just wasn't aggresive enough. I see Drexler do a LSD for the TL4, and of course Vauxhall use Drexlers in the VXR's, so I'll investigate the longetivitiy of those boxes as a potential candidate...?

Suspension, feck knows really. I'd like AST's (which you went for I think?), but coil'd rears would be against the rules for the road going production catergories, which I wanted to do some Sprints at Combe and Goodwood. Though it doesn't seem like I'll ever get bloody round to those or not this year anyway!

 

[rosscoe]

Thats what I've got waiting to go in just now the Quaife Atb, my gripper final drive came today too. I've gone for the 5.00 ratio, which gives a thoeretical top speed of 137mph.

There's always the Gripper diff too, you can specify what your using it for and corby will set the diff up accordingly. There's a fair bit of info on their website about diff settings. If I dont think the Quaife is what I'm after I'll pull it out and put a Gripper in, but there's a few lads on here have the ATB and they say they're great.

Re the AST's, Julian at Balance motorsport seemed to reckon you have a choice of suspension at the rear with the AST's. It might be worth giving him a call and see what he says. I said to him I thought it was only coilover rear but he was adamant you had a choice. Chances are he'll give you a good deal to get a sale, he did with me anyway.

 

[TB Rich]

Cheers, worth bearing in mind re: AST's.

Didn't know gripper did a compatible final drive. I was expecting to go to the place Simo did in Italy, again good to know thanks - how much was it? Sounds like I'd be going for the same, I worked out a few values in this thread (http://www.clio197.net/forum/showthread.php?11424-Different-Couple&p=531337&viewfull=1#post531337) and felt a 14/69 was the best ratio. However that's based on the standard being a 16/69 and a Oreca one being 12/69 - I literally have no idea if that means we have to stay with a x/69 number and then inturn I have no idea how you turn that into a decimal value?

But ~140mph @ ~8k is about on the money I'd say. Std of like 160+ is stupid.

 

[Chris_200CUP]

There was company other week that some mentioned on FB Clio page about ITB and they do them for clip 197/200 and comes with ecu aswell. Remember looking at them but can't for life of me remember the name

 

[Chris_200CUP]

Take it back found the post

http://beta.atpowerthrottles.com/product_info.php/renault-f4r-830-clio-197-45mm-p-68