GW 200 CUP (clubsport->racecar->v2)

[Beany]

Corrr such a stunning shell, can’t wait to see what you get up to

 

[strell]

That’s how to do it

Crash, but have the proper protection to walk out sore but overall ok.

Then not only fix it but upgrade it.

Glad you are ok! And I look forward to coming back in here for the updates.

 

[LiamP]

Cheers for the messages guys, been through various states of mind since but feeling positive about it all now.



With the new shell jacked up I set about starting the rebuild, about 100 times more satisfying than stripping. Gear stick / linkages, handbrake, steering column, exhaust, rear beam / brakes, dampers and stub axle all on which means the rear of the car is now done.

Manifold is in a sorry state which means upgrade time, PMS manifold ordered, looks like it’s going to involve cutting and sleaving to fit the Akra but I knew I would regret going for a Togo/gravity.



Subframe built back up with my steering rack and ARB, all of which survived the impact.







£100 on a second hand hub which I have now stripped, cleaned and half way to rebuilding with new bearings. Just waiting on a new EE bracket as it bent on impact and I need to machine down the top to allow the damper to sit lower.



Once the manifold is fitted I can get the engine in which is very exciting although I have already got distracted by purchasing a cheap lightweight flywheel. Once in I am going to have take the intake manifold off as the intake air temperature sensor snapped off causing the plastic to fall in, very likely it has already been eaten by the engine but worth checking.



Noticed this weekend that the seat mounts aren’t up to FIA spec and tbh not sure I would want to race on them anyway so that means potentially a trip to GDF. If I do opt to get them welded I will probably get a few other things done to make the cage safer / stiffer.

For those interested started posted videos of me chatting shit on insta, might continue but might not.

 

[Helpimonfire]

I saw the walkaround vids on Insta the other day, so glad to see you getting stuck in! Quite enjoyed the waffling, may be worth documenting the rebuild on Youtube maybe?

I wouldn't use those seat mounts for trackdays, let alone racing, they look... Less than ideal. They might be strong enough but they just don't look the best to my untrained eye.

 

[LiamP]

I saw the walkaround vids on Insta the other day, so glad to see you getting stuck in! Quite enjoyed the waffling, may be worth documenting the rebuild on Youtube maybe?

I wouldn't use those seat mounts for trackdays, let alone racing, they look... Less than ideal. They might be strong enough but they just don't look the best to my untrained eye.

Would love to but its a lot of work, fair play to those that put the effort in as I enjoy watching others builds on YT.

Yeah no idea how they where ever legal, I bent 4mm of steel on my seat mounts so no chance these would hold as they can't even be 3mm.

 

[burrellbloke]

Can I ask a silly question please?

What is the purpose of the metal bars to mount the bucket seat to rather than just use direct floor to seat mounts?

 

[LiamP]

Can I ask a silly question please?

What is the purpose of the metal bars to mount the bucket seat to rather than just use direct floor to seat mounts?

In my case it is because the OEM mounts have been removed to save weight however I believe the OEM fixing meet FIA spec as per detailed here as I know a few clios that run with standard fixings but then it isn't very clear:

2.2.1. Supports must be attached to the shell/chassis via at least 4 mounting points per seat using bolts with a minimum diameter of 8mm and counterplates, according to drawing No. K32 or K64. In the case of drawing No. K64 the end plates may alternatively be welded to the counterplate. The minimum area of contact between support, shell/chassis and counterplate is 40 sq cm for each mounting point. In Series Production Cars manufacturers’ standard seat mounting points may be used. If quick release systems are used, they must be capable of withstanding vertical and horizontal forces of 18000N, applied non-simultaneously. If rails for adjusting the seat are used, they must be those originally supplied with the homologated car or with the seat

https://www.motorsportuk.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/seatguidance02.04.19.pdf

 

[RSRowe]

I thought they looked quite ample to be honest...... certainly more sturdy than whatever sidemounts you'll be attaching to them.

 

[LiamP]

So the upgrades have already got out of control, with the manifold now blowing I have upgraded to the PMS system, as always it looks awesome. Involved a cut to the Akra system and a sleeve to fit but all relatively simple.



Also took the opportunity to upgrade the mounts with the PMS kit as the originals had taken most of the impact, especially gearbox side.



Took the box off and replaced the flywheel with the lightweight version, stupidly used and torqued the new bolts as this has since come back off. Dry fitted the engine to check everything was fitting, decided the engine looked a mess so pulled it all back out and onto an engine stand.








Ihave been very lucky in that I am in a workshop next door to a garage which my Dad uses. I have been using up a lot of favours borrowing all sorts of tools which has been a life saver / accelerated the current status. The owner also convinced me that it’s worthwhile getting as many maintenance items done whilst the engine is out, this started with the cambelt but has now descended into a full rebuild..






4 hours later and the engine is completely stripped, it was actually relatively easy with just the crank being a pain when it came to the front sprocket. Facebook inspired tool to pull it off and everything is now in boxes.





The mains showing a lot of wear, not extreme but certainly a lot for 60k miles. Makes this effort slightly more satisfying knowing that these will all be replaced. Journals on the crank also look good with no scoring however will get this polished before balancing.

Current plan:

• Dynamically balanced bottom end
• Crank journals polished
• New main bearings
• Ported head, maybe, unsure if this is worth it
• 402 or 403 Catcams
• Supertech valves
• Supertech springs
• Vapour blasted head / components

Armed with my new engine building certificate I plan on doing everything I can at home. Utility room is currently home to the top end, wife isn’t impressed but it means I can do a lot of the rebuilding without the 1hr round trip.

 

[l33th3tr33]

Can't wait to see this finished, but also enjoying seeing everything done, and to a high standard. It's going to be one hell of a car.

 

[Flyingfish]

What a build and detailed thread. Shame to see V1 go but glad you’re ok and building V2.
Can I ask you mention loom stripping in the build but how much were you able to remove. I’m not going to go as far as you but did plan to remove the basics such as alarm, stereo, heater etc.. I wondered if you ran into any issues?
Thanks in advance if you’re able to help

 

[LiamP]

What a build and detailed thread. Shame to see V1 go but glad you’re ok and building V2.
Can I ask you mention loom stripping in the build but how much were you able to remove. I’m not going to go as far as you but did plan to remove the basics such as alarm, stereo, heater etc.. I wondered if you ran into any issues?
Thanks in advance if you’re able to help

Cheers, I know that my current interior loom is just under 2kg, not sure on the standard but must be close if not over 10 so its worth it.

The easiest way is to take it all out, remove tape and then trace back / depin, it seems extreme but doing it in the car is really tricky and time consuming. It can take a while to get your head around how it all works as there is a lot of wiring that isn't used and joins so always start at the part you are removing and work back if you start cutting.

 

[Flyingfish]

Cheers, I know that my current interior loom is just under 2kg, not sure on the standard but must be close if not over 10 so its worth it.

The easiest way is to take it all out, remove tape and then trace back / depin, it seems extreme but doing it in the car is really tricky and time consuming. It can take a while to get your head around how it all works as there is a lot of wiring that isn't used and joins so always start at the part you are removing and work back if you start cutting.

Thanks for the reply, that was my thought.
As you say I was going to work back from whatever was being removed. I was a little conscious of removing components that may interrupt any canbus signal.
Would you know of any don’t removes as such or as long as you leave the pins for the items you haven’t removed should it all be good. I’m pretty methodical with stuff but trying to get as much info as possible before attacking it

 

[LiamP]

Thanks for the reply, that was my thought.
As you say I was going to work back from whatever was being removed. I was a little conscious of removing components that may interrupt any canbus signal.
Would you know of any don’t removes as such or as long as you leave the pins for the items you haven’t removed should it all be good. I’m pretty methodical with stuff but trying to get as much info as possible before attacking it

Yeah you should be fine, if you keep the loom in you can start / check everything works after cutting which is a benefit. The only gotcha on the canbus is the way it loops through the power steering and into the instrument cluster but I doubt you want to touch that, the rest you can see clearly due to the twisted nature, from memory:

- Airbags (module / crash detectors)
- Power Steering
- OBD port
- Instrument panel
- ABS
- Radio? (Maybe)

 

[Flyingfish]

Yeah you should be fine, if you keep the loom in you can start / check everything works after cutting which is a benefit. The only gotcha on the canbus is the way it loops through the power steering and into the instrument cluster but I doubt you want to touch that, the rest you can see clearly due to the twisted nature, from memory:

- Airbags (module / crash detectors)
- Power Steering
- OBD port
- Instrument panel
- ABS
- Radio? (Maybe)

Thanks for the heads up. I plan to lose the airbags and crash detectors at some point but will speak to a specialist as I hope with Clip and their removal this won’t be an issue. Power steering will remain as will the instrument panel
Going to bin off the radio too as it’s already a noisy rattling car so without trim that’s not going to get any better! I will keep an eye on that one as I do it. Appreciate the help

 

[PITA]

Thanks for the heads up. I plan to lose the airbags and crash detectors at some point but will speak to a specialist as I hope with Clip and their removal this won’t be an issue. Power steering will remain as will the instrument panel
Going to bin off the radio too as it’s already a noisy rattling car so without trim that’s not going to get any better! I will keep an eye on that one as I do it. Appreciate the help

You can remove the airbags but the airbag ecu needs to remain or you’ll get an EML. Everything from the rear plug can go, wires to the front airbags can go but I’d leave the rest

 

[Flyingfish]

You can remove the airbags but the airbag ecu needs to remain or you’ll get an EML. Everything from the rear plug can go, wires to the front airbags can go but I’d leave the rest

Thanks for the info, would you leave the crash detectors or can these go. I think there are three aren’t there. One on the rear iso fix bar then one by the handbrake and one by the keycard. Had a look in a mates when he had the trim out to try and plan ahead

 

[LiamP]

Thanks for the info, would you leave the crash detectors or can these go. I think there are three aren’t there. One on the rear iso fix bar then one by the handbrake and one by the keycard. Had a look in a mates when he had the trim out to try and plan ahead

The detectors can all be removed, the one thing I couldn’t remove without the light was the passenger airbag button, not sure if that is possible?

 

[Flyingfish]

The detectors can all be removed, the one thing I couldn’t remove without the light was the passenger airbag button, not sure if that is possible?

Cool, the main reason is not to have unnecessary plugs from items removed such as radio, heater etc… but if there are other bits that could go while I’m there without issue I’d take them out too.
Thanks again

 

[PITA]

Thanks for the info, would you leave the crash detectors or can these go. I think there are three aren’t there. One on the rear iso fix bar then one by the handbrake and one by the keycard. Had a look in a mates when he had the trim out to try and plan ahead

Pretty sure you’re describing the keyless entry sensors. The crash sensors are in the bottom of the B pillar.