Fast Road/Track Ultra Red 197
- Thread starter VeiRoNv2
- Start date
VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
Nicely spotted,that occurred during installation, I'm not doing that job anytime soon again so will stay like that until it won't lol.
VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
Fitted the passenger bucket seat,the original seat weighs 18.2 kg and the bucket 6.5 plus 4.5 for the mount so saves 7,2kg per seat or 14.4kg for the pair,nowhere near as much as I thought (I think the Recaros are a bit heavier).ideally I'd like to get a matching red harnesses for the driver too at some point.
Also fitted an oil temp sensor in the sump,I bought an adapter so should the sensor go bad or break you can simply unscrew it and replace it,lots of thread lock on it to avoid coming loose and tightened as much as I dared.
It's useful to know from cold start when the oil is warm enough before giving it beans,also fitted a new sump gasket while I was there.
Highest temp I saw was about 110 degrees,hope it won't go much higher than that with track use,next oil pressure.
Also fitted an oil temp sensor in the sump,I bought an adapter so should the sensor go bad or break you can simply unscrew it and replace it,lots of thread lock on it to avoid coming loose and tightened as much as I dared.
It's useful to know from cold start when the oil is warm enough before giving it beans,also fitted a new sump gasket while I was there.
Highest temp I saw was about 110 degrees,hope it won't go much higher than that with track use,next oil pressure.
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Regarding the harness colour, what about dyeing the blue one with a red dye?
I'd imagine to get both colours the same though might be hard but it's a cheaper option.
Oil temperature gauge is a very good idea for a track car, tbh it would be a good idea on any car imho. Fully synthetic oil can handle fairly high temperatures but I believe it's more about the oil viscocity as it thins out at higher temperatures that causes problems.
Cars coming along great.
I'd imagine to get both colours the same though might be hard but it's a cheaper option.
Oil temperature gauge is a very good idea for a track car, tbh it would be a good idea on any car imho. Fully synthetic oil can handle fairly high temperatures but I believe it's more about the oil viscocity as it thins out at higher temperatures that causes problems.
Cars coming along great.
VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
Thank you appreciate it,if anything it keeps me busy lol.regarding the belt I have no idea if thats a possibility never saw any kit for it.
I saw the oil temp reaching 120'c with the warmer 20 degrees weather,I think it might need an oil cooler for track use to be honest but we will see,I use the recommended 5w40 oil (Mobil Super 3000 X1).once I have fitted the oil pressure gauge hopefully that will tell me if I loose any significant pressure if over 120.
@VeiRoNv2 I haven't done it but yes you can dye your seat belts.
Some info here: https://seatplenary.com/can-you-dye...e Your,Dry 7 Step 7: Reinstall the Seat Belts
This type of stuff should work: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15414097...moVSq2UhXtY3+GQ2fXOYOvlBIK|tkp:Bk9SR86V59LxYw
Some info here: https://seatplenary.com/can-you-dye...e Your,Dry 7 Step 7: Reinstall the Seat Belts
This type of stuff should work: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15414097...moVSq2UhXtY3+GQ2fXOYOvlBIK|tkp:Bk9SR86V59LxYw
VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
Added some carbon to the ZPO shifter:
Made some brackets as I've cut the radiator legs and fitted an undertray:
Replaced the fan relay as was quite corroded,altough I've bought this one below from ebay and even tough the seller confirmed fitment the cage is slightly too tall and fitment isn't great but for now it will do:
Made a cover as removed the centre trim:
Also fitted some Nankang NS2Rs,I have gone 225 instead of 215 to try and fill the arches until I get new wheels,the back is pretty much even,that's 4cm wider than stock now.
Fitted new window seals as the old ones disappeared over time:
Oil pressure gauge:
Idle from cold:
Footrest:
Water temperature gauge,this one reads the temperature of the coolant already cooled and fed into the engine tough,not sure if thats any better than measuring at the thermostat but we will see lol,it certainly never gets to 90 degress but about 60-70.
Made some brackets as I've cut the radiator legs and fitted an undertray:
Replaced the fan relay as was quite corroded,altough I've bought this one below from ebay and even tough the seller confirmed fitment the cage is slightly too tall and fitment isn't great but for now it will do:
For Vauxhall Vivaro Renault Trafic II Clio Mk3 Radiator Blower Heater Resistor | eBay
VIVARO, 01-06. VIVARO, 06-14. TRAFIC, 01-06. TRAFIC, 06-14. CLIO, 05-13. 1X New Radiator/Blower Fan Heater Resistor. RENAULT 7701049661. RENAULT 8200045082.
www.ebay.co.uk
Made a cover as removed the centre trim:
Also fitted some Nankang NS2Rs,I have gone 225 instead of 215 to try and fill the arches until I get new wheels,the back is pretty much even,that's 4cm wider than stock now.
Fitted new window seals as the old ones disappeared over time:
Oil pressure gauge:
Idle from cold:
Footrest:
Water temperature gauge,this one reads the temperature of the coolant already cooled and fed into the engine tough,not sure if thats any better than measuring at the thermostat but we will see lol,it certainly never gets to 90 degress but about 60-70.
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VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
While I was there I replaced all of the spring clips for normal ones as I hate them:
The torx that fits onto the coolant pipe was very corroded and almost rounded so I found the appropriate place for it:
Also came across a cheap 200 diffuser that had some slight heat damage and missing the exhaust tips heat shields so replaced the 197 one as I think it looks a bit better in gloss black,the carbon tips are also a bit messed up but these are easy to replace.
Sits quite close but I'm hoping the heat reflective tape is enough.
The torx that fits onto the coolant pipe was very corroded and almost rounded so I found the appropriate place for it:
Also came across a cheap 200 diffuser that had some slight heat damage and missing the exhaust tips heat shields so replaced the 197 one as I think it looks a bit better in gloss black,the carbon tips are also a bit messed up but these are easy to replace.
Sits quite close but I'm hoping the heat reflective tape is enough.
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VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
Got a red sleeve for the reverse cable mechanism to add a bit of color:
Saw on Facebook somebody was selling custom air fresheners so bought one lol:
The original engine bay heatshield was turning into dust so made a new one:
Tried to get some more noise from the V6 Airbox as you can't really hear any induction noise over the exhaust,tried a cone filter but with mixed results lol.
Edit: it has infact not worked and I have reverted to the original setup.
Got a Cup brace mainly as it's aluminium and a bit lighter,4.7kg versus 2.5kg so saves about 2.2kg,I had to drill an additional hole,and nut and bolt the front of it as it ends up in the middle just between the two studs:
Saw on Facebook somebody was selling custom air fresheners so bought one lol:
The original engine bay heatshield was turning into dust so made a new one:
Tried to get some more noise from the V6 Airbox as you can't really hear any induction noise over the exhaust,tried a cone filter but with mixed results lol.
Edit: it has infact not worked and I have reverted to the original setup.
Got a Cup brace mainly as it's aluminium and a bit lighter,4.7kg versus 2.5kg so saves about 2.2kg,I had to drill an additional hole,and nut and bolt the front of it as it ends up in the middle just between the two studs:
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VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
Can you guys see the pictures okay?
Anyway,I've done a few jobs.
I have made a cover for the shifter and moved the cables away:
Got a carbon switch panel from carbon skins:
The bumper strip never sat right so did a bit of a bodge using brackets lol:
Got carbon door cards from Oreca,not really plug and play the front ones and did need to be trimmed and cut but the carbon looks really good and the fitment is pretty much spot on with the lines of the doors to be honest,doesn't save much from the original door cards,only about 4.2kg lol (not including the speakers weight):
Used some carbon wrap behind the door pulls as you could see the metal behind and wasnt looking great:
Had to make a spacer to fit the passenger side window switch or it wouldnt sit flush:
Quick exterior shot.
Anyway,I've done a few jobs.
I have made a cover for the shifter and moved the cables away:
Got a carbon switch panel from carbon skins:
The bumper strip never sat right so did a bit of a bodge using brackets lol:
Got carbon door cards from Oreca,not really plug and play the front ones and did need to be trimmed and cut but the carbon looks really good and the fitment is pretty much spot on with the lines of the doors to be honest,doesn't save much from the original door cards,only about 4.2kg lol (not including the speakers weight):
Used some carbon wrap behind the door pulls as you could see the metal behind and wasnt looking great:
Had to make a spacer to fit the passenger side window switch or it wouldnt sit flush:
Quick exterior shot.
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VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
Not done too much more but have removed all the faded plastic grilles and fitted some black mesh grill,i think it looks a bit better and actually protect the radiator from stonechip much better,I have also done it to get a bit more unrestricted air to the V6 airbox:
I have also decided to try and make use of the right hand side grill as it does absolutely nothing now that the airbox is not standard so I put it to use for cooling the inlet manifold lol (not finished yet):
I have also fitted a Clio 182 dampened pulley,quite a bit smaller than the original one:
weight saving is 1,3kg:
I got a new bolt just in case and done the additional 100 degrees of torque using tipex,the new bolt washer is thinner for some reason but they are the same length.
I did buy the proper plate to cover the smaller size but for some reason it doesnt have enough clearence and the engine wont even rotate by hand with the pulley on,I made a plate from 2mm aluminium just to help avoid any debris for now:
I have now a nice collection of auxilliary belts trying to find the correct lenght one,if anyone needs one for use with the ktec ac removal kit the correct one is 6PK820.
The pulley improves the response greatly especially when accelerating from standstill,very happy with it,altough I have caught the cambelt moments before disintegrating itself so I have now ordered Schrick 288 cams to go with the new belt and wont be driving it anymore until that job is done.
I have also decided to try and make use of the right hand side grill as it does absolutely nothing now that the airbox is not standard so I put it to use for cooling the inlet manifold lol (not finished yet):
I have also fitted a Clio 182 dampened pulley,quite a bit smaller than the original one:
weight saving is 1,3kg:
I got a new bolt just in case and done the additional 100 degrees of torque using tipex,the new bolt washer is thinner for some reason but they are the same length.
I did buy the proper plate to cover the smaller size but for some reason it doesnt have enough clearence and the engine wont even rotate by hand with the pulley on,I made a plate from 2mm aluminium just to help avoid any debris for now:
I have now a nice collection of auxilliary belts trying to find the correct lenght one,if anyone needs one for use with the ktec ac removal kit the correct one is 6PK820.
The pulley improves the response greatly especially when accelerating from standstill,very happy with it,altough I have caught the cambelt moments before disintegrating itself so I have now ordered Schrick 288 cams to go with the new belt and wont be driving it anymore until that job is done.
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VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
Whilst I'm still waiting for the intake Shrick cam I have done a few jobs,I have got a nice carbon surround from Carbon Skins for the speedo and "forged carbon" background with yellow rpm bit:
Got some heavy duty clamps for the exhaust as the old ones always came loose after a bit and started leaking and fitted poly exhaust bushes:
I have also fitted Gaz coilovers at the back,altough I was given 300 pounds springs for mostly road use which are incredbily stiff even with shocks adjusted half way but only drove a mile or two,might need 250 or 200 pounds springs,will see,also might have to raise it a little bit.
Will fit another bag at the top lol,not quite long enough.
I have left it a bit higher on driver side.
Best mod I have fitted heated pads to the bucket seat lol.
can choose between low and high setting,still need to finish the switch panel properly tough.
I have acquired an used passenger swivel hub that I started stripping and will fit all new parts,can't find any proof that anything has been replaced before,will get new bearing and new top and bottom swivel joints/linkage and give it some fresh paint.
Got some heavy duty clamps for the exhaust as the old ones always came loose after a bit and started leaking and fitted poly exhaust bushes:
I have also fitted Gaz coilovers at the back,altough I was given 300 pounds springs for mostly road use which are incredbily stiff even with shocks adjusted half way but only drove a mile or two,might need 250 or 200 pounds springs,will see,also might have to raise it a little bit.
Will fit another bag at the top lol,not quite long enough.
I have left it a bit higher on driver side.
Best mod I have fitted heated pads to the bucket seat lol.
can choose between low and high setting,still need to finish the switch panel properly tough.
I have acquired an used passenger swivel hub that I started stripping and will fit all new parts,can't find any proof that anything has been replaced before,will get new bearing and new top and bottom swivel joints/linkage and give it some fresh paint.
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VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
Have used these piggyback connectors so everything is reversible and dont need to cut any wires,also easy to plug into an ignition only feed.
Also went back to original mirrors that I wrapped gloss black as the carbon ones are a pain to live with,the carbon doesn't look that great up close anyway.
Also wrapped the interior handles,dont like the chrome very much.
Also went back to original mirrors that I wrapped gloss black as the carbon ones are a pain to live with,the carbon doesn't look that great up close anyway.
Also wrapped the interior handles,dont like the chrome very much.
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VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
The Inlet cam finally arrived in January so I have made the trip 2 hours each way to BeanieSport to get them fitted,pleasure to deal with and in booked me in straight in when somebody else let me down.
The cambelt kit was replaced as it was way over due including the Dephaser,water pump and all the cams seals.
Old ones were sold;
Got me a nice pizza while waiting;
It was driving okay with the cams unamapped but very rich and sluggish on low revs,was also failing to idle some time when coming to a stop nonetheless they felt great already when going.
While waiting to get it mapped I sorted this brake line out with a Kunifer pipe;
Got some more carbon bits and got a nicer suede materal that I have tried and will be using it for the dash too insted of flocking it I think;
The cambelt kit was replaced as it was way over due including the Dephaser,water pump and all the cams seals.
Old ones were sold;
Got me a nice pizza while waiting;
It was driving okay with the cams unamapped but very rich and sluggish on low revs,was also failing to idle some time when coming to a stop nonetheless they felt great already when going.
While waiting to get it mapped I sorted this brake line out with a Kunifer pipe;
Got some more carbon bits and got a nicer suede materal that I have tried and will be using it for the dash too insted of flocking it I think;
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VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
I still had the issue where the wiper would wipe 3 times and then stop in the middle of the screen,replaced the stalk but that didnt fix it,I then replaced the motor and all was good again,the motor had a few pins corroded but couldnt see anything obliviously faulty;
This is how it needs to sit otherwise the motor goes down first and then up when you first use the wipers,dont ask me how I know lol.
I got a new Starline fitted as wasnt sure how old the original one was and the mapping was pretty far away so didnt want to risk it;
BeanieSport recomonded Chris at EFI so booked that in and after a few weeks made the 3,5 hours each way trip;
Maxium power was 215.3hp and 227nm of torque so was pretty happy with that,the highest number was actually 218hp at 7600 rpm but was dialed back as was told it was running a bit lean for his liking,the cams still have a bit more to give but the limiter of 7500 needed to be raised which wasnt advisable with stock internals,I was recommended to upgrade valves,springs and oil pump for this so it will be next at some point.
Also I now have great fuel economy;
This is how it needs to sit otherwise the motor goes down first and then up when you first use the wipers,dont ask me how I know lol.
I got a new Starline fitted as wasnt sure how old the original one was and the mapping was pretty far away so didnt want to risk it;
BeanieSport recomonded Chris at EFI so booked that in and after a few weeks made the 3,5 hours each way trip;
Maxium power was 215.3hp and 227nm of torque so was pretty happy with that,the highest number was actually 218hp at 7600 rpm but was dialed back as was told it was running a bit lean for his liking,the cams still have a bit more to give but the limiter of 7500 needed to be raised which wasnt advisable with stock internals,I was recommended to upgrade valves,springs and oil pump for this so it will be next at some point.
Also I now have great fuel economy;
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burrellbloke
Paid Member
VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
Few things to update.
Stole the idea from some Toyota model to clip the oxygen sensor wire,might save it from rubbing against the heatshield in the future and popping fuses.
Before:
I noticed,shortly after mapping,the car had intermittent loss of power like the vvt wasn't working,no EML was showing so I plugged the diag immediately and fortunately (or unfortunately) it gave me something to start from:
I just had a lot of parts replaced I was a bit afraid i might have gotten a daft part but I had replaced most sensors apart from the solenoid so I got a new one.I had the older type plug:
I even tested and it still clicks fine,tough the click didn't sound very strong compared to the new one,I couldn't get hold of the old type and was impatient if that was really the issue or something more serious so i got the newer 200 model one and just swapped the plug over,not ideal but it was indeed the solenoid faulty as full power was restored.
I went to change the solenoid and of course the thread stripped in the casting so I thought this was a good time to change to nut and studs form Ozert engineering,should have done it a long time ago to be honest,I repaired the thread with helicoil and installed the studs on the rest of them too.
Helicoil in:
I have redone the front grills (one may have flown into the stratosphere) starting from a base model one,cut it for the opening and wrapped it gloss black:
I converted the clutch line to a solid braided one,clutch feels better:
Old fluid was quite dirty:
I also got the Renault Sport lip from Oreca:
Was able to get hold of the oem nut from when i replaced the swivel joints:
Stole the idea from some Toyota model to clip the oxygen sensor wire,might save it from rubbing against the heatshield in the future and popping fuses.
Before:
I noticed,shortly after mapping,the car had intermittent loss of power like the vvt wasn't working,no EML was showing so I plugged the diag immediately and fortunately (or unfortunately) it gave me something to start from:
I just had a lot of parts replaced I was a bit afraid i might have gotten a daft part but I had replaced most sensors apart from the solenoid so I got a new one.I had the older type plug:
I even tested and it still clicks fine,tough the click didn't sound very strong compared to the new one,I couldn't get hold of the old type and was impatient if that was really the issue or something more serious so i got the newer 200 model one and just swapped the plug over,not ideal but it was indeed the solenoid faulty as full power was restored.
I went to change the solenoid and of course the thread stripped in the casting so I thought this was a good time to change to nut and studs form Ozert engineering,should have done it a long time ago to be honest,I repaired the thread with helicoil and installed the studs on the rest of them too.
Helicoil in:
I have redone the front grills (one may have flown into the stratosphere) starting from a base model one,cut it for the opening and wrapped it gloss black:
I converted the clutch line to a solid braided one,clutch feels better:
Old fluid was quite dirty:
I also got the Renault Sport lip from Oreca:
Was able to get hold of the oem nut from when i replaced the swivel joints:
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VeiRoNv2
Paid Member
Replaced the inner track rods as they had some play,I also replaced the boots anyway as they are 20 years old:
Ive put a cover filled up with grease to keep the thread clean as the driver side was a complete pain to take off because of rust:
Cracked 100k now:
Ive put a cover filled up with grease to keep the thread clean as the driver side was a complete pain to take off because of rust:
Cracked 100k now:
