Fast Road/Track Ultra Red 197

[rSilva]

I don't know if tire patching plugs are "fuel safe" but that would be something that would not come off easily by being a press fit into the hole

EDIT: https://diygearpro.com/adhesives/best-epoxy-for-plastic-gas-tank-repair/

 

[VeiRoNv2]

I would thread it and put a blanking fitting in it. Perhaps some Araldite around the edges to ensure that it doesn’t vibrate loose.

I’d use an NPT thread or something similar.

1/2” plug - https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/12-npt-solid-male-plug-6144-p.asp

Tap - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071DJXS1F/?tag=clio197-21

18.25mm tapping drill - https://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk/1825mm-hss-standard-jobber-drill-din338.html

Awesome thank you,I think that will work,I didnt think about a thread reapir,thats clever,I will see how this epoxy goes but i will most likely use this method.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

I don't know if tire patching plugs are "fuel safe" but that would be something that would not come off easily by being a press fit into the hole

EDIT: https://diygearpro.com/adhesives/best-epoxy-for-plastic-gas-tank-repair/

Thank you,I will have a look at these.

 

[Jakkehoop]

odd that it is drilled in the side of the tank and not the bottom

 

[VeiRoNv2]

odd that it is drilled in the side of the tank and not the bottom

Possibly it is because you can get a drill in only from the side,not enough space to drill the bottom,dont know why somebody would do that though.

 

[Jakkehoop]

Possibly it is because you can get a drill in only from the side,not enough space to drill the bottom,dont know why somebody would do that though

Possibly it is because you can get a drill in only from the side,not enough space to drill the bottom,dont know why somebody would do that though.

Hmmm Possibly

only reason i could think of is to drain the fuel out of it

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Not any huge update just done a few things,came across some nice flocked parts on ebay so bought and fitted them,A pillars and steering surrond,in the future the dash will get flocked too:

Read from another forum member you can use Megane springs to keep the handbrake from sticking and these are not fitted to the Clio,i dont have that issue right now but with brand new calipers i figured i would try this out if it might help prevent it:

Got a nicer looking start switch,before:

I got the subframe side brackets out to save some weight and as I will be going with solid mounts anyway,the brackets not looking very good lol:

and just put a few leds and my private plate:

 

[Jakkehoop]

Not any huge update just done a few things,came across some nice flocked parts on ebay so bought and fitted them,A pillars and steering surrond,in the future the dash will get flocked too:

Read from another forum member you can use Megane springs to keep the handbrake from sticking and these are not fitted to the Clio,i dont have that issue right now but with brand new calipers i figured i would try this out if it might help prevent it:

Got a nicer looking start switch,before:

I got the subframe side brackets out to save some weight and as I will be going with solid mounts anyway,the brackets not looking very good lol:

and just put a few leds and my private plate:

did not know that using the megane spring on the rear caliper was a thing

so did the clio not come with a spring then ?

where did you get the springs from as this seams a good idea

 

[R20BTG]

I’ve got them on mine as my mechanic noticed the handbrake was dragging slightly. Not sure why they didn’t come as standard on the Clio.

 

[RSRowe]

I’ve got them on mine as my mechanic noticed the handbrake was dragging slightly. Not sure why they didn’t come as standard on the Clio.

because Renault

 

[VeiRoNv2]

did not know that using the megane spring on the rear caliper was a thing

so did the clio not come with a spring then ?

where did you get the springs from as this seams a good idea

Pardon our interruption...

 

[Jakkehoop]

Pardon our interruption...

thank you for that i will order a set lol

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Managed to fit the H&R springs at the front,interesting how the cup spring has 5 coils and H&R has 4 so only a small drop:

Thread were a bit rusty so run a tap and they went in a lot smoother:

Glad i did the job,found out some other garage put copper grease on the caliper bolts,why would you do that?? All cleaned up and put loctite on them,they werent that tight to begin with too:

As i was expecting both abs sensors were completely seized inside the hub so had to drill them out,ordered some new ones and cleaned the housing ready for when they arrive:

Also painted the calipers while i was there:

 

[VeiRoNv2]

You know,i was looking at this picture i posted and noticed the massive fuel leak,so i decided to investigate:

Looks like somebody has decided to drill trough my fuel tank?? looks way to round for it to be a debris damage.i barely touched it with my finger and fuel started pouring out:

Does anybody know the best way to repair plastic? I really dont want to have to replace the entire tank,i have used some metal epoxy as thats what i had but it still leaks a little bit.

Cut a thread and put a plug on it with lots of sealant,not very clean but it worked and didnt have any leaks since:

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Cut some access holes,I'm not messing around everytime with the scuttle panel and wipers when i eventually fit coilovers:

Changed the gearbox oil,not sure why the old one is red? is that the color of the OEM one? not sure.

Took the roof liner off as I wanted to brush it black instead,its not perfect as i think some spots will need a light retouch but it is good enough for now,also put some sound deadening,i checked first and it is very light,still 2 kgs lighter than the tar that was there before,it just stops the car sounding like a tin can everytime you shut the doors which is annoying,also put some nicer led white bulbs:

got some stickers for the calipers,i hope they last if not i got 2 more pairs in the box i bought lol:

Unfortunately had to bodge the AC feed,i got hit with the cold loop pressure too low fault code DF1070 so first thing I did was to regas it fully,it worked for a while but then it would just randomly stop working,i checked the value for the ac pressure switch and it is 7 bar from what i remember so it has charge,the external and interior temperature sensors both are working,the problem is the ECU not sending the feed to the compressor for some reason,bit of a shame as it has a brand new condenser that was fitted just before I bought it.

I have read around and it is a very common problem,appartently it will need a reprogram from a Renault dealership and even then i read the issue coming back again.

Fed up with all of that I just put a manual switch for the 12v so i can turn it on myself when i want to,the only issues i can see with this,is if i turn it on and there is no gas it will damage the compressor,or if the compressor is seized for some reason and i turn it on it may cause damage to the aux belt,i guess i will have just be more careful,i will leave like this and see how it goes until i find a better solution.

 

[EthanMenace]

I've not seen red gearbox oil before, pretty sure that's not the oem stuff

 

[rSilva]

Be mindful that if the AC was on, and you stall the car or stop for fuel you should turn it off and leave off for some minutes, to prevent overpressuring the compressor, since you're not considering the pressure before starting the compressor.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Yeah thanks for the info,I did put it on ignition however the compressor has now packed up lol,so I'll just go back to original if I buy a new one, I'm very close to just getting rid of it and save weight

 

[VeiRoNv2]

I was experiencing some crunches in third on a Sunday drive so decided to change the gearbox oil first and see how that goes,i have used the Motul Motylgear 75w-80 and must say after a few days of use i didn't have any issues,altough i was reading around the forum and read very good reviews about the RED LINE MTL,so decided to go with this and keep the old oil as spare,first impressions are it gives very smooth gear changes,real test will be when i book a trackday though,I also fitted a magnetic gearbox plug just to keep an eye on any sudden wear.

I have an issue with the front wipers where sometimes they work 3 times and then stop half way,so took the assembly off to try and fix it,the 2 linkage shafts where pretty corroded altough not seized so was looking to get them off to give them a clean,of course the tabs had to break lol,so ordered a new assembly,also one of the M6 bolts snapped so need to fix that too:

Also found the drains completely blocked so cleaned them up:

Found the tensioner pulley to be quite noisy so ordered a new one,seller did confirm compatibility before buying but it did not fit,this is the second time this happens so i just decided to use the new pulley on the old tensioner for now,will buy a genuine assembly at some point soon.

Also changed the crank pulley as it was coming apart,I was reading about getting a lightweight one but apparently it is no good for a road car that does decent miles due to having no dampening and possibly affecting the crankshaft at higher rpms.

Started fitting some eyelets so i can fit a 4 point harnesses,the original seat belt is too loose for me in spirited driving lol,just need to buy a half cage now.

Always disliked how Renault never made the wing vents functional as there is no holes in the fender for the air to go trough so fixed that lol.i was also reading on here somebody did some simultations and found it reduced drag by about 4-5% so that was pretty interesting to know:

 

[VeiRoNv2]

I did put some foam to try and stop as much water or dirt collecting on the bottom and corroding the metal:

Also fitted the second Vibra Technics lower gearbox mount,just have the gearbox top mount left to do now,more plastic on the dash is rattling and making noise lol,but gear changes do feel pretty good:

The mount was pretty bad when you put a screwdriver and use it as leverage:

Used these connectors to remove the airbag faults because of the bucket seat,I used the how to on here which worked great,but I still have the rear inertia reel fault,does anyone know where abouts this is located? because I cant seem to find it,(front airbag faults I believe it to be the second hand squib ring i bought which might be faulty,I also have no cruise control or speed limit funcitons working,only the horn).

Also fitted a rear tow hook for when I eventually start doing trackdays: