200 Cup, track focused rebuild!

needforspeed

Gold Member
So after the latest lockdown announcement and the booked trackdays being cancelled I've decided just to do the engine build properly, now there's no rush. Rather than rebuild my engine and having bits everywhere I've managed to find a cheap used engine then just swap and sell mine.
Stil gathering info but so far the spec will be -

11-1 CR or 10.5/6-1 CR, JE or Wossner pistons 83mm overbore? Mixed thoughts at the moment, will hopefully speak to Efi this week to finalise.
Maxpeed rods
3 degree valve seats / ported head / matched lower inlet
Balance crank, rods, flywheel etc etc
ACL race shells throughout
ARP head stud kit
ARP big end bolts
Cometic head gasket - thickness depending on CR
All OE gaskets / oil pump / oil pump drive kit
105mm charger pulley?
Possible charger shaft / impeller upgrade from UK Supercharger Repairs if it's been finalised before the builds finished.
 
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turkie172

Paid Member
I think your problem with the Supercharger blades was weld splatter etc. in your pipework and intercooler during assembly it's a thing we have to be careful with when modifying and running new fuel tanks on race bikes especially Isle of Man TT where the fuel tank we take a standard 17.5 liters tank to the max 24 liters as it takes about 11 - 12 liters a lap and the standard tank silhouette can not be changed. I would find someone that can power flush the intakes before going again and because of the induction a foam air filter being exposed may not be enough to stop foreign objects being sucked through.
 
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needforspeed

Gold Member
I did think that about the foam yes, Im going to run a fan on the front of the rad as the old ones knackered anyway and relocate the filter higher up. How would weld splatter make its way back through the charger?
 

paul330d

Paid Member
Relocating the battery behind the driver's seat is a bit of a nightmare with the under bonnet fuses so decided to cut it out completely and use more conventional fuses and make a carbon plate to cover the gearbox mount. And getting the ally parts ready for some clear coat after sandblasting last night!!View attachment 142709View attachment 142710View attachment 142711View attachment 142712View attachment 142713View attachment 142714
thats a real neat solution you've done there ,where did you get the fuse box from if you don't mind me asking .
cheers paul
 

needforspeed

Gold Member
I think your problem with the Supercharger blades was weld splatter etc. in your pipework and intercooler during assembly it's a thing we have to be careful with when modifying and running new fuel tanks on race bikes especially Isle of Man TT where the fuel tank we take a standard 17.5 liters tank to the max 24 liters as it takes about 11 - 12 liters a lap and the standard tank silhouette can not be changed. I would find someone that can power flush the intakes before going again and because of the induction a foam air filter being exposed may not be enough to stop foreign objects being sucked through.
I think you hit the nail on the head there with the foam filter so swapped it for a K&N. Any swarf would of been at the opposite end crushed in my valve seats I'm sure!
 

needforspeed

Gold Member
The engines been dropped off with my engine builder / and luckily friend of mine to strip down while we're waiting for the parts to land. Ended up deciding on a 10.6 CR which will hopefully see the 350 hp mark!

Few other bits bought, SPA dual oil temp gauge for engine and supercharger oil temperatures. Towing eye. K&N filter to replace the foam RAM filter. and bargain of the century after looking at harnesses for hours these Porsche specific ultralight Sabelt harnesses popped up for £150 each! Can only think they've been listed wrong as they're £400+ each everywhere else! The quality is amazing.

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needforspeed

Gold Member
Little update and a few pics, the pistons landed this week from Wossner along with the rest of the bits from Engine Dynamics. A1 service from them can't recommend them enough. Last minute decision to fit a lighter flywheel aswel. Thought I may aswel so it can be balanced with the crank.
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needforspeed

Gold Member
Just finished the fuel pressure reg this eve from Aem with a Sytec gauge few adapters needed to convert from the -an to the metric push fittings but doesn't look too bad and just cut the original feed from the tank. I'm utilising the pipe from the evap purge valve for the return rather that running a new pipe/hose, I've yet to adapt the tank end. Sytec fuel pump just delivered so going to cut an inspection panel at the weekend and make a nice cover rather that dropping the tankD0DC506B-0D9C-4000-99D9-59AF954150EE.jpeg6D77C0DD-C3A9-447D-8D23-935563A1C041.jpegE221D0C5-9E54-4466-A894-4B0980EA1A14_1_201_a.jpeg,44216283-995A-479B-8B7F-98A41BE2D3EB.jpegD0DC506B-0D9C-4000-99D9-59AF954150EE.jpeg6D77C0DD-C3A9-447D-8D23-935563A1C041.jpegE221D0C5-9E54-4466-A894-4B0980EA1A14_1_201_a.jpeg
 
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PITA

Paid Member
You’ll probably have to extend the charcoal canister hose at the engine end. Our cars use a 5/16” quick connect connector at the rail, tank and the half way joint under the car.

What are you doing about the rail?

The tank will need a 90 degree bulkhead fitting too.

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needforspeed

Gold Member
You’ll probably have to extend the charcoal canister hose at the engine end. Our cars use a 5/16” quick connect connector at the rail, tank and the half way joint under the car.

What are you doing about the rail?

The tank will need a 90 degree bulkhead fitting too.

View attachment 144571
Same all of the above but with push fittings and using the standard rail, just waiting for the fitting for the return for under the regulator