Bumper pins.

I have been away for the week and have had too much time to think. I have seen cars with bumper pins which obviously help someone remove the front bumper quicker than normal. I have had a look through Dialogsys and as far as I can work out to remove the front bumper you have to:

1. Undo the two bolts under the front of the car
2. Get under the arch liner and undo the bolts on either side of the car which go in to the bracket where bumper pins normally go
3. Undo the 5 bolts and clips at the top of the bumper (under the bonnet).

Do bumper pins just replace the step 2?

Another silly question - if you remove the bumper do the arch liners stay in place.

My mid-term goal is to put in some brake ducts and try to get a track day cold air feed in through a modified passenger side headlight. If a headlight can come out with four bolts with the bumper off the effort may be worth it.
 
Bumper pins.

I have been away for the week and have had too much time to think. I have seen cars with bumper pins which obviously help someone remove the front bumper quicker than normal. I have had a look through Dialogsys and as far as I can work out to remove the front bumper you have to:

1. Undo the two bolts under the front of the car
2. Get under the arch liner and undo the bolts on either side of the car which go in to the bracket where bumper pins normally go
3. Undo the 5 bolts and clips at the top of the bumper (under the bonnet).

Do bumper pins just replace the step 2?

Another silly question - if you remove the bumper do the arch liners stay in place.

My mid-term goal is to put in some brake ducts and try to get a track day cold air feed in through a modified passenger side headlight. If a headlight can come out with four bolts with the bumper off the effort may be worth it.
Yes and yes . I've fitted the pins and have had the bumper off with arch liners in place . You just have to undo the 2 torx screws that attach the liner to the bumper underneath


Excuse my 'welding' but yeah ... 20220302_154638.jpg

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
 
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Recent thread on fb with mixed opinions on their usefulness..

I get so fed up of stage 2 I no longer use the bolts, never had a problem.

Are you sure you want a cold air feed to the v6 box?
 
I have seen the posts but the science would suggest the colder air you can get in to the intake the better performance you might get.

Plus, I like the idea of trying. I would only use a headlight cold air feed for track days.

My car was mapped by K-Tec in October 2020 and I would be interested to see if it was mapped again whether there would be any more power as a result of the small changes we have made. But it is a bit of a trek to K-Tec so I could always take it to the more generous Engine Dynamics and claim an extra 15 bhp as a direct result of the changes.
 
Recent thread on fb with mixed opinions on their usefulness..

I get so fed up of stage 2 I no longer use the bolts, never had a problem.

Are you sure you want a cold air feed to the v6 box?

I have just re-read your post and thought you were talking about the usefulness of a cold air feed rather than bumper pins. If you have had no problems without the bumper bolts by each wheel arch being attached I might just try it without if I ever get round to it.
 
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I have just re-read your post and thought you were talking about the usefulness of a cold air feed rather than bumper pins. If you have had no problems without the bumper bolts by each wheel arch being attached I might just try it without if I ever get round to it.

Sorry slightly confusing response, regarding removing the bumper it’s the 4 screws for the two arch liners which are the real pain.
 
I removed the bolts under the arch liner as soon as I got the car...as 1 side was ruined anyways.
If corners are popping out then you need to push the headlight up (I wedged something between bumper bar and the headlights to push them up, then the bumper won't pop out on corners).
 
I have seen the posts but the science would suggest the colder air you can get in to the intake the better performance you might get.

Plus, I like the idea of trying. I would only use a headlight cold air feed for track days.

My car was mapped by K-Tec in October 2020 and I would be interested to see if it was mapped again whether there would be any more power as a result of the small changes we have made. But it is a bit of a trek to K-Tec so I could always take it to the more generous Engine Dynamics and claim an extra 15 bhp as a direct result of the changes.
Never heard anyone claim ED more generous than k-tec!
Is that a recent development since he changed to a hub dyno?
 
It was just me.

Some of the map figures from Engine Dynamics seem to be a few BHP more than I would expect - but then again I am no expert and am probably wrong.
 
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So some modifications make a big difference.

@adam thomas was really helpful and printed off some cage belt clips for me.

IMG_3190.jpeg

The front seat belt clips rattle against the main hoop of the half cage unless they are clipped in to the buckle. These clips stop the seat belt from rattling against the edge of the cage.

IMG_3189.jpeg

Now I can get in to the car and drive about without the passenger seat belt ratting like crazy.
 
I’d have it the other way. KTec are often quite optimistic with their dyno figures and ED are pretty good. Not a heart breaker dyno though
I may pay Engine Dynamics a visit later this year to see if the ported and polished inlets and the V6 airbox have made any difference to my car.
 
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So some modifications make a big difference.

@adam thomas was really helpful and printed off some cage belt clips for me.

View attachment 149930

The front seat belt clips rattle against the main hoop of the half cage unless they are clipped in to the buckle. These clips stop the seat belt from rattling against the edge of the cage.

View attachment 149931

Now I can get in to the car and drive about without the passenger seat belt ratting like crazy.
Do we have a directory of these kind of components on the forum? It’d be great to know all the little hacks like this the forum makes!
 
The sun was out today so it was a perfect opportunity to replace some parts on the Clio that did not need replacing at all.

I had purchased some rear callipers a few weeks ago. The existing callipers and carriers had been serviced/refurbished last year with new pistons, seals, and regreased sliders. But the paintwork on the callipers was just awful. This is the drivers side calliper.

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This is the passenger side calliper which from the top looked like it was in better condition.

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This is the underside of both of the callipers.

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@EthanMenace and I removed the old callipers and replaced them with the new callipers. After using the excellent Sealy pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes the job was done.

IMG_3196.jpeg

The rear pads are Ferodo DS2500s. One of the pads had degraded and parts are starting to crumble away. I would guess that 10% of the particular pad is now missing.

We then moved on to replacing the coil packs. I had acquired some coil packs from @PITA for no reason other than I disliked the worn rubber seal on my existing coil packs. When I had last looked at my coil packs it was when the drivers side jet washer would leak and leave small pools of water on top of the engine and cylinder number 4. Although I had put some sealant under the jet washer and it had solved the problem I still wanted a new set of coil packs with good rubber seals to put on the car.

IMG_3197 (1).jpeg

This is the worst of the old coil packs from cylinder 4.

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This is the new one, or new in the sense that it has done no more than a few hundred miles.

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The engine bay looks no different with the new coil packs. The car works exactly the same with the new coil packs. But I am now happy that the coil pack in cylinder 4 now has a nice rubber seal.

IMG_3200 (1).jpeg

After our hard work we took the car for a quick test drive just to make sure that the brakes worked just as well as they did before - surprise, surprise they did.
 
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