massivewangers
Paid Member
Okay, so I know this has come up a lot but, as my manifold is blowing and I have been looking through the options, I wanted to try and compile as much information into one thread that will, hopefully at least, be a useful resource for anyone looking to solve this common 197/200 problem, or wondering about the potential performance implications of changing their exhaust manifold.
Standard Manifold Issues
So, firstly, for the newbies, and those that have been asleep since the 197 was launched, the standard exhaust manifold on the 197 and 200 has some inherent flaws:
There were a few options for the exhaust but, please remember, unless you fix the engine mounts, then you will will soon run into this issue again. If your manifold is on the way out, the first thing I would advise is to inspect the engine mounts and look at replacements, or even adding poly inserts to at least some of them. I fitted the Powerflex lower torque arm insert and noticed an improvement. I have since added the upper as well, which has stiffened things further, but has caused some additional vibration.
Anyway, on to the exhaust solutions. It's worth noting at this point that, to remove the exhaust manifold, you have to drop the front subframe. This may require you to have the work done by a garage if you're not able to do it at home. This will come with a cost, so will need to be factored in, even though it's going to be required whichever option you choose.
Also, changes to the exhaust can cause a flat spot between 2,000 and 3,000rpm. This can be fixed with a remap, which you will obviously need to account for in your budget. The bonus of this is that it should make the car nicer to drive once it's done. Views on how essential it is vary, but it's worth keeping in mind. Obviously it doesn't apply if you repair/replace the standard manifold.
New Renault Exhaust Manifold
Get your wallet out if you want to go down this route...
This is obviously a bolt-on solution and will get you back to where you were before your original manifold failed. No power gains, no dramas, just a standard bit for a standard car. The problem is, the manifold is very expensive from Renault (check direct for the current price) and availability can be hit-and-miss. Fitting this manifold also leaves you open to a repeat of the flex/flange issue in the future, so you may end up having to replace it again later. In my opinion, this makes the cost hard to justify.
In any case, if you go down this route, make sure your engine mounts are in good condition, otherwise it will definitely break again.
Repair Existing Renault Manifold
A much cheaper option than above, which involves removing the standard exhaust manifold and installing new flexi sections and/or repairing the flange welds.
You'll need to buy two 50x100mm flexi sections, like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-x-100...ble-Flexi-Flex-Joint-Pipe-Repair/132513181460
You'll also need to find someone to weld them in for you. If your manifold is cracked at the flange, you will also need to repair that. When repairing cracked metal, it's good practice to drill a hole at each end of the crack before welding it up. This helps to ensure that the crack doesn't continue to propagate.
Reconditioned manifolds are available on eBay or, if you wanted to tackle it yourself, you could always buy a cheap one, repair it, and then fit it to your car (you could even repair the one you take off and sell it if you're feeling particularly entrepreneurial).
As above, please please please make sure your engine mounts are good if you go down this route, or you'll soon be taking that subframe off again, and no one enjoys repeating the same job because they didn't do it right the first time.
Repair Existing Manifold and Add Supersprint Pre-Cat Delete
This is a middle option, between replacing/repairing the standard manifold and going for an aftermarket one. It's similar to what was used on the Clio Cup race cars I believe. You'll still need to carry out a repair as detailed above but, while you've got the manifold off, you might as well try and find a horse or two, right?
The Supersprint "Y-pipe" can be seen here:
https://www.supersprint.com/ww-en/r...talytic-converterbrweld-on-connection.aspx#!/
It essentially replaces the lower part of the manifold, deleting the pre-cat and (in theory) improving performance. I haven't seen any dyno data for how well it works. It's also not that cheap to buy and, if you pay to have it fitted (it has to be welded in to the standard manifold), it may end up costing almost as much as a Ktec/PMS manifold by the time you have replaced the flexis, had a flange repair done and had it all fitted. With that in mind, I am not sure it represents particularly good value unless you can do the work yourself.
Worth noting that, pre-cat removal shouldn't cause any emissions concerns when it comes to your MOT, as long as you retain the main catalyst.
To be continued...
Standard Manifold Issues
So, firstly, for the newbies, and those that have been asleep since the 197 was launched, the standard exhaust manifold on the 197 and 200 has some inherent flaws:
- Liable to cracking around the flange joints
- Flexi sections prone to failure
- General build quality of the manifold poor in terms of primary size and finishing
There were a few options for the exhaust but, please remember, unless you fix the engine mounts, then you will will soon run into this issue again. If your manifold is on the way out, the first thing I would advise is to inspect the engine mounts and look at replacements, or even adding poly inserts to at least some of them. I fitted the Powerflex lower torque arm insert and noticed an improvement. I have since added the upper as well, which has stiffened things further, but has caused some additional vibration.
Anyway, on to the exhaust solutions. It's worth noting at this point that, to remove the exhaust manifold, you have to drop the front subframe. This may require you to have the work done by a garage if you're not able to do it at home. This will come with a cost, so will need to be factored in, even though it's going to be required whichever option you choose.
Also, changes to the exhaust can cause a flat spot between 2,000 and 3,000rpm. This can be fixed with a remap, which you will obviously need to account for in your budget. The bonus of this is that it should make the car nicer to drive once it's done. Views on how essential it is vary, but it's worth keeping in mind. Obviously it doesn't apply if you repair/replace the standard manifold.
New Renault Exhaust Manifold
Get your wallet out if you want to go down this route...
This is obviously a bolt-on solution and will get you back to where you were before your original manifold failed. No power gains, no dramas, just a standard bit for a standard car. The problem is, the manifold is very expensive from Renault (check direct for the current price) and availability can be hit-and-miss. Fitting this manifold also leaves you open to a repeat of the flex/flange issue in the future, so you may end up having to replace it again later. In my opinion, this makes the cost hard to justify.
In any case, if you go down this route, make sure your engine mounts are in good condition, otherwise it will definitely break again.
Repair Existing Renault Manifold
A much cheaper option than above, which involves removing the standard exhaust manifold and installing new flexi sections and/or repairing the flange welds.
You'll need to buy two 50x100mm flexi sections, like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-x-100...ble-Flexi-Flex-Joint-Pipe-Repair/132513181460
You'll also need to find someone to weld them in for you. If your manifold is cracked at the flange, you will also need to repair that. When repairing cracked metal, it's good practice to drill a hole at each end of the crack before welding it up. This helps to ensure that the crack doesn't continue to propagate.
Reconditioned manifolds are available on eBay or, if you wanted to tackle it yourself, you could always buy a cheap one, repair it, and then fit it to your car (you could even repair the one you take off and sell it if you're feeling particularly entrepreneurial).
As above, please please please make sure your engine mounts are good if you go down this route, or you'll soon be taking that subframe off again, and no one enjoys repeating the same job because they didn't do it right the first time.
Repair Existing Manifold and Add Supersprint Pre-Cat Delete
This is a middle option, between replacing/repairing the standard manifold and going for an aftermarket one. It's similar to what was used on the Clio Cup race cars I believe. You'll still need to carry out a repair as detailed above but, while you've got the manifold off, you might as well try and find a horse or two, right?
The Supersprint "Y-pipe" can be seen here:
https://www.supersprint.com/ww-en/r...talytic-converterbrweld-on-connection.aspx#!/
It essentially replaces the lower part of the manifold, deleting the pre-cat and (in theory) improving performance. I haven't seen any dyno data for how well it works. It's also not that cheap to buy and, if you pay to have it fitted (it has to be welded in to the standard manifold), it may end up costing almost as much as a Ktec/PMS manifold by the time you have replaced the flexis, had a flange repair done and had it all fitted. With that in mind, I am not sure it represents particularly good value unless you can do the work yourself.
Worth noting that, pre-cat removal shouldn't cause any emissions concerns when it comes to your MOT, as long as you retain the main catalyst.
To be continued...
so nice! Any update on noise levels? Is this on a DD or a track toy? I would love to get one but my car already came with an Akra exhaust, and I feel bad cutting into it.
