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Discussion in 'Projects/Progress Threads' started by petercronin, Jul 23, 2018.
Makes me really want to get my B14's on! Going from cup shocks and H&R springs too, can't wait.
Out of curiosity what/how much did you have to cut? Just open up the hole by aset amount? Do you get a strengthening plate for underneath or do they assume the aluminium top will add in strength?
The hole just needed opened up a bit, an 80mm hole saw was enough to get the right clearance.
You don’t get a strengthening plate as standard but they are available. To be honest though the mount as it is seems much more substantial than the oem one. I’m going to keep an eye on them for any signs of flexing (or worse) and strengthen it if needs be. But I think a fair few people are running these now though and I haven’t heard any horror stories yet.
Alignment time. Just waiting on the initial measurements and if the rear end is miles out I’ll buy some shims and come back for setup another time.
If it’s close enough side to side I’m going to go for a touch more front camber and toe out, don’t want to go too wild with it yet as it still gets more road use than track. But having the ability to get both sides equal should be good, the last alignment I got both front sides were different.
Interested on what they say for the rear.
Well results are in and it’s out a bit, looking at shimming it to get it spot on. What do you guys reckon?
Do it once do it right if it was mine. Bit of a ball ache having to go back though!
That was my intention all along, so I’m thinking of a 20 and a 30 min camber shim to get both sides roughly the same at 1 deg and 30ish mins. Then a 10 min toe shim to get the right hand side roughly back where it should be. Unless anyone else has a better suggestion?
If you’re going on track I’d suggest 2.5deg camber on the front. Still driveable daily(odd bit of tramlining) but keeps the front planted and evens out tyre wear
Tbh I had considered cutting (and welding an extra plate for strength) my top mounts further in to effectively oval the hole and make it possible to add camber with slotting the bolt holes, see no reason why it wouldnt work nicely
I imagine as long as it’s all cut correctly it should work. Only issue I see is making sure it doesn’t move. I take it yours is a late style top mount too? If I had an early style I don’t think I’d go through the hassle of cutting anything though as there’s mounts you can just bolt in.
Little update with the rear alignment issue, I’ve had someone suggest it could be the wheel bearing so I might look at this before anything to make sure it’s right, rather than hiding a problem with shims. The last time I checked there was no noise or obvious play in it but you never know. The discs are maybe 3 years old and 15k (ish) miles so I’d be surprised if it had failed unless I’d managed to mess up the installation somehow.
Doesn't it look great on that ramp amongst all that other drab stuff!!
If you need to adjust the front camber why not consider something like this?
Despite having the early style I don't want to fit the coils since I'm really happy with the cup stock spring and shocks setup for the roads I usualy take.
To increase the camber when track time comes that will be what I'll try
Thanks. There’s a lovely VX220 you can see the back end of in that pic and a race prepared Twingo 133 in the trailer at the back.
I thought the same until o fitted them, I’d recommend consider them, the ride is much better than standard. Thanks for the suggestion but I’ve got adjustable top mounts fitted so I can get plenty from them. I’ve not got personal experience of using these bushes but I’ve heard that they can move when you don’t want them to.
I'm not planning on kerb surfing, so I shouldn't have major issues
Thanks for the feedback
So yesterday whilst bored at work I finally motivated myself to do something I’ve been putting off for a while. It looked fairly clean but the amount of dirt that came out was surprising - glad I used the work sink, don’t think the Mrs would have been too impressed! It’s made a noticeable difference to low rpm running too
This saving money thing is a right pain, I’ve spent ages masking these up!! But they are much cheaper than the oem ones, Godspeed got me some plain discs (available on request if anyone is interested I paid £110 delivered with new nuts and caps) and apparently they have the oem bearings in. We’ll see how they stand up I guess.
It has nothing to do with kerb surfing... cornering forces act sideways and the bushes move in there housings, so it’s driving the car that moves them... so yes you probably will as lots of people have who don’t drive into kerbs