LY200 - too loud or blow up again, taking bets!

[TB Rich]

One thing is for sure. It looks awesome, hopefully the drive would eventually be on a similar level!

Home once again and yes it does look awesome!


Starting to compile a list now of things needed to get it ready for mapping, will start to tick them off one by one when I get chance to work on it. Which unfortunately is not very often as I only get every other weekend (kids!) and then at the mercy of the British weather! So I can't see it being done for a few months yet.

• Fit arch liner.
• Buy bumper clips and secure it properly.
• Drop the oil to fit the correct sandwich plate (supplied a Mishimoto thermostatic one, but a Mocal non-thermostatic one was used - not a huge issue but unfortunately for a car that sees daily and winter use a non-thermostatic one is not really fit for purpose. Hopefully the lines will still reach ok as the outlets maybe oriented differently after changing).
• Sort throttle pedal - Pure don't have a revised bracket, but it's limp and lifeless as it is. I have a solution based on using a base model dbw mk3 unit, as that has both a builtin stop and return spring. Being a non-cruise spec pedal it also has no kick down, I just need to get someone who can weld to add the upper part of the cable pedal with the clip to it.
• ECU is password locked for some reason and I can't communicate with it. Strange because I emailed the map to Jasekid so I know I did have access to it and there was no password. The SXTune software can be buggy so I'll have to ring SCS.
• ECU and data logger won't communicate, I suspect a CAN setup issue on the ECU (which I can't check!)
• Mount ECU properly and refit glovebox.
  
• Fit datalogger - will require cutting out the drinks holders and running a sheet of carbon over the top to hide/make pretty.
• Configure data logger - need the pinout from the loom place though. There were 3 analogue sensors I provided, oil pressure, oil temp, fuel pressure - but only 2 sensors going in to the data logger. So not sure where the 3rd one is, and without the other 2 being labelled I've no way of knowing how to configure the channels on the logger.
  
• Fit GPS aerial. - No longer going for roof location, going to stick it on the flat section of the sat nav screen, it's window side and will look neat there.
  
• Tidy up data logger and fuel pump wiring (and mount relay)
  
• No launch control, nothing I can do about that really. Was a communication issue because I didn't have it on my list of things for the loom place (was sent via a msg after). Tbh I only wanted it for the spark cut induced fun, so no practical loss, just a childish one.
• DBW was not done how I asked either. Single cable run with all 5 wires, and terminate with dtm allowing to swap between 3-pin tps and 5-pin dbw unit (a pig tail essentially). Now there is a dbw plug but it's quite up in the wrong place (up by oem area), annoying because it wasn't for the purpose of going back to oem - but if I later on wanted to add the Jenvey ETA unit.
  
• Build heat shields as the stock one was quite matty so was removed.
• Fit gearbox breather hose.
  
• Make a bracket for the dip stick as that's not secured now the inlet manifold is gone.
• Drain fuel tank as the fuel is 2years old, don't want to map on that.
• Change brake fluid, old now.
• Change tyres, AD08R's and decent tread but they've been sat with no rotation (and low pressure as I never re-filled after the track day) - so I'm thinking they are probably a bit buggered.
• Get an MOT! - Will need to refit the sports cat, as I still have the one made to fit the R3 manifold, however I no longer have a system to fit the cat as that was my old Supersprint which I sold. I'm thinking I might resurrect the oem exhaust for that purpose! Small bit of pipe and couple of clamps should sort that, probably don't even need to do any welding.

To give credit where credit is due, the lines that Mitch did are second to none, it's all very neat and looks excellent.

 

[lewishunter98]

Looks so good sat there! Big flow of updates has been awesome haha!


Also,

Let me know if them tyres are no good to you but might be alright for track as I'll be needing some and you're only up the road [emoji102][emoji23][emoji23]

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

 

[TB Rich]

Yeah will do, I'll probably do a day on them and see how they fare. But I'm somewhat of a perfectionist and just knowing they've sat with low pressure triggers my anxiety!!!






(oh, and I still want a Duke more than the Clio!!! lol)

 

[TB Rich]

Figured out the issue with the SCS -> AiM comms, by opening a saved copy of my last map I can see that the CAN2 comms are not set for an AiM.
So as soon as I get on to the ECU again I can click a few buttons and fingers crossed! Hopefully it won't mess with the CAN stuff for the Renault dash etc, I'd assume that is covered by the CAN1 comm - I had a convo yonks ago with SCS and this all sounds familiar.

 

[jasekid]

Hey Rich, let me know if I can help, my tuner originally said he needed a password but must of figured something out as he no longer required it! More then happy to have a chat to him to see what he did. Been following your progress while in Japan, so happy you have the car back! I am insanely jealous (it sounds awesome)!

 

[TB Rich]

@jasekid, that is interesting, and odd though! As my maps open fine in SXTune and don't require a password (hence the screen shot I was able to make!) - and obviously when I pulled them off the ECU a few years ago they didn't require a password. Will see what they say in a bit!

 

[Prototypetom]

Quite a snag list there pal lol

 

[TB Rich]

A bit longer than would have liked, however bare in mind a bunch of them were always outstanding things I needed to sort anyway.

But I can tick a few off that list as into the ECU now, turns out you can just load a map over the top of a locked one - so I just flashed my backup over it. Also got the AiM talking to it now, not that I suspect many people will be following this setup, but here's the settings I'm using.

ECU:
CAN1 @ 1Mbit
CAN1 protocol: Not Used (CAN1 is always live outputting the basic ECU protocol stack - as it's used by the comms lead for mapping etc)
CAN2 @ 500k
CAN2 protocol: Renault

AiM:
ECU protocol: SCS - Petrol
120ohm CAN resistor: disabled
Silent CAN mode: enabled

I can now have the laptop hooked into both and pretend I'm in a scene from F&F! lol
Renault Dash seems to be ok too, so hopefully no nasty surprises when I come to move it under its own steam!

This weekend I want to have the AiM GPS aerial installed, ECU and fuel pump wiring all buttoned up in its final resting place and glovebox back in over the top. That way the interior is done I think.
Then if the kids haven't lynched me for ignoring them (as it's not really a weekend I can spend too much time on the car), potentially make up the heatsheild in the bay as Mitch gave me a sheet of Nimbus, and then a simple bracket/extension to mount the dispstick to the block.

 

[Prototypetom]

Tbh mate it’s been in treating read as it’s very similar to where I’m heading. I have at power itbs and and going stand-alone etc doing everything myself tho. It’s only way to get what you want. One think I’m looking into is the dbw for at power itbs see if it’s worth the 500 extra. Good read should get on track sometime this year with ya

 

[TB Rich]

Honestly, I would quit before you're balls deep! You'll just be left with a car that's not especially fast, likely too loud for track, very expensive, and frustratingly bespoke you'll be forever plagued with headaches. I honestly regret every penny I've spent on it, but it's been a spiralling descent and the shear monies involved mean I can never really get rid of it! Not without putting in a few years of consistent use anyway. So yeah, don't do what I did - and as they say..."never go full retard"!!

DBW, tbh I only wanted the plug present to use the Jenvey ETA module encase I couldn't get the pedal sorted properly. I'm hoping once I've put my pedal idea in to place it'll essentially feel and have the placement of a stock pedal, but without the annoying kick down feature - and of course razor sharp throttle response. I can tell already the response is insane and nothing like I've experienced since my last ITB car. So at this point I don't envisage needing to try and implement the DBW plug.

As an outside thought process I was having an idea of use a 220T EDC gearbox much later on, and DBW would have no doubt played a key part in being able to implement it - but I'm def not going there now (not to mention would probably need boost to suit the ratios) so I don't see any real practical application for DBW, for me at least. Throttle blip if you put a sequential in maybe - but again I'm not putting 10k in to that!! If you are prepared to spend an awful lot of time in mapping you can implement the various torque strategies for optimum throttle angle against spark, but it's more expense and more to go wrong in my eyes.

 

[TB Rich]

Datalogger and GPS aerial installed this weekend:





Forgot to take a pic of the bracket, but I'm very pleased with how it turned out and the finished mounting. I've done a shitty paint image showing the basic construction though!
The EVO4S has 2 M4 threads on the bottom which the bracket is screwed to (with access holes for an allen key to fit), this is then secured to an existing thread on the car with a slotted hole and nut to clamp it down.
I then clearanced out the bottom of the drinks holder and run the cables neatly around the side and into the dash. Annoyingly I scratched the top of the datgalogger quite badly so I cut a piece of 3m carbon wrap for the top and it looks pretty cool I think.
Still to do is get a thin sheet of carbon and bond it to the underside where the drinks area was cut - and thus hiding it away to look fairly stock at first glance. I awlays keep a small silica gel bag in that cubby hole anyway.


(thin grey line being the allen key)


Next time it's out I'll put some black paint on it but it was getting a bit late in the day and wouldn't have dried in time.









I also got all the wiring done nicely too:

As it was:


And how it is now - I forgot to take a pic of the ECU in the glovebox, but I've got the inner side cut away and the harness comes in through, ECU itself is mounted on closed cell high density foam for isolation. I've also routed the AiM USB cable there so for mapping and data logging you just open the glove box and the cable ends are right there. Fuel pump relay and wiring is now nicely cabled tied and wrapped, relay mounted up out the way too.


Took quite a while to get all done, but it is nice to have the interior looking good again. I also had to pull out the dash apart far more than really needed to, but my old gauges which had power and earth wires, had just been cut and left - so I wanted them removed properly.




Almost happy with the wiring now anyway, I just need to understand why the AiM only has 2 sensors going to it and which they are. Plus I've found some cut wires chassis side in the engine bay, which are probably to do with fuel pump now I've got the direct feed - but I need to ascertain for certain, and I think I can tidy it up more than it is now. Tbh I may even take it somewhere to put a Deutsch Autosport connector in that location so it can be pinned nicely - I just have a loathing for cut and loose wires.

Oh and the GS-Dash set to Yellow of course!! (GPS reporting as working too).

 

[Prototypetom]

With the aim hailing 2 sensors is the rest of it been read on via Ecu?

 

[TB Rich]

Quite possibly, but it's knowing which is going where of course. I've been over the plugs in the bay and certainly all 3 sensors are there and run into the main loom. There is then a DTM plug on the inside that the sensor channels feed to before heading to the AiM, and on the chassis side of that DTM plug there are more wires going in to it than are picked up on the other side of the plug to the AiM. So I'm thinking it's quite possible it was just missed and that would require only about 5mins to simply pin a cable on one end for DTM and the other the end an AiM binder plug. In fact I have 1 AiM cable left over, which would corroborate that idea.

I got the arch liner and gearbox breather done today, so another couple of the list! Quite like working on the car when the weather is nice!
Got the pedal removed too, but I can't get the bloody nipple out the quadrant on the ITB linkage. It probably just needed more force but my fingers are still sore from the weekends wiring and tidying endeavour! These fair hands are not used to work! But once the pedal is sorted I will look to sort mapping, trouble is I need new tyres on the daily and it's a perfect opportunity to get them done gloss black!

 

[suj]

It's coming along nicely Rich! Shame it has taken THIS long to get to this point, I know what you mean about garages / places taking way too long sometimes, it's happened to too many of my friends on their builds.

Hopefully now the major stuff is done it won't take long (he says....the last 10% always take 90% of the time!)

Can't wait to see this back and running mate.

 

[TB Rich]

Yep list is right down now, and in order of priority...

• Sort throttle pedal*
  
• Configure data logger/dash screens
  
• Build heat shield
• Make a bracket for the dip stick
• Carbon blank above datalogger
• Tidy wiring in corner of engine bay
  
• Drain fuel tank
• Mapping
• Get an MOT!
  
• Change sandwich plate - I've eye balled the fitment now and looks like no probs with lines.
  
• Change brake fluid
• [Maybe] Change tyres

None of that other than the pedal should take much work tbh.

*staying on the Pure pedal setup now, but will use the more flexible sheathing which should alleviate the issue I have with it now not feeling smooth and returning nicely. The DBW pedal would create basically the reverse issue as unless the sweep of the pedal is identical to the ITB quadrant, if I did as I thought and set the pedal fully down and set the ITB's for fully open - then if the sweep of the pedal is not enough, the ITB's woudn't close up to idle! And conversely if the sweep is too much it would create a dead spot at the top of the travel and possibly slackening the cable too much might be an issue also.
So it's time to drill the floor or have a bracket welded, but first thing will be to replace the sheath and see how it feels.

And I'm sure the good people of this forum will find my continued bad luck with cars amusing..! My Mini has blown the head gasket it looks like; water noise behind dash, no heat from heaters, and froth/mayo in the header tank (plus a sweet smell)! It's in warranty so no cost, but still a huge ball ache and now arguing over when I can get a courtesy car, ffs! 13,000 miles and 15 months old

 

[bedoef]

What did you do to anger the car gods Rich? Where's the bad karma coming from?

Good luck with the issues, hope you get it all sorted quickly to fall in love with the Clio all over again!

 

[TB Rich]

I think Jesus just hates me! lol

My bad luck is infectious, the bloody recovery truck with the Mini on it....broke down literally just round the corner after having had it loaded! Had to have a 2nd truck come and pick it up! And my hire car....a Renault Clio (mk4 of course!)

Had a bit of a brain wave to flick through the Clio part catalogues as both the R3 and Cup use cable throttle setups. Turns out the R3's use a nice throttle stop, and Googling the part number uncovered that even the Mk4 Cup uses it too.
So I'll get that ordered and hopefully be easy enough to fit, I'll just have to spend a bit of extra time to paint the edge of the hole and use a good dab of sealant on the chassis side to prevent any weather ingress and rust etc.

Part 24:


Fitted in a Mk4 Cup:

 

[Prototypetom]

Nice little find that

 

[TB Rich]

Only a little bit of progress this week.

• Make a bracket for the dip stick - ended up refurbing the dipstick holder too, few coats of satin and then a few coats of a matt clear. Also made a cover for the aircon delete, used some sealant around the plate when installed. - I don't believe you need to block this but I didn't like the idea of leaving it open either.
  
• Carbon blank above datalogger
• New throttle cable & sheath installed - it's certainly better, though I'd still like some additional 'spring' to it, I will see how it feels when driving - but wondering about putting in a Compbrake pedal for long term fix.

Decided to make the cover from some aluminium sheet, hate cutting carbon and this cost a few pounds only.



Once trimmed edged with a thin rubber seal. I was going to paint it in the satin and matt clear, but I had lying around some 3m carbon wrap so went for that, then some M4 black/gold hardware I also had lying around (couple of rivnuts in the centre console to fix it to). The RS sticker was going spare too so why not!!




(need to source an o-ring for the bottom, mine is nowhere to be found!)




I reshaped the dipstick holder bracket and put a rivnut in it to suit the lower bracket hole.





It's probably a couple of mm too tall but tbh it covers the area it's meant to and will be behind the exhaust heat-shield when made anyway.

Not too much done but pleased with how it all came out.

 

[lewishunter98]

I like the look of that being satin black.