not a bad price at all for that :book:
Exactly, if I'd known I could get it all new so cheap I'd have plumped straight for this route, ah well... you live and learn (or not seemingly is the case with me!)
What Throttle bodies having? Did buy that other engine?
No as it worked out better to buy a new block and stuff from Renault, I'd have been throwing away/selling on a fair amount of that other engine so pointless in the end. That engine is still a good deal though if someone's dropped a valve and got a knackered head, or crank is screwed etc.
ITB's, currently toying between Jenvey and AT. Mitch at Proline can do me a nice Jenvey manifold, but it's a question then of throttle control (cable or DBW). Swapping to a cable is a pain as there are no direct fit pedals (cup racer is lhd and requires a fair effort), and no bulkhead hole for a cable. Given how obsessive I am with doing things right, I just know the pedal mounting and positioning will be a subsequent ballache before I'm pleased. You'll need to ensure you have the right pivot points for getting WOT, as well as having enough travel and that it's linear, lastly and just as crucial a study and comfortable placement!! So I want DBW basically because I can address all those pedal problems...by not changing it
However the Jenvey DBW unit is £600 which is a hell of a lot, and the main issue with that is DBW units do fail, so that sort of cost is too high for a potentially consumable item. Imagine spending £1200 or £1800 on 2 or 3 DBW units ffs!
So AT bodies, the main advantage with AT is I've approached them to making a DBW billet housing for the F4R kit and they have been very responsive to the idea. Potentially using the stock DBW internals or I've suggested the MZR DBW unit as used by the BBR 225 kits. This is because they already have worked this DBW out for positioning and voltage scaling, also the MZR unit can be stripped easily because in OEM form it's rivited to the metal housing, whereas I haven't got a clue how you strip the Renault item - it's all sealed up with no obvious way to remove the actuator from the metal TB??
So DBW with AT potentially means plug and play fitment ITB's at last, if it's the MZR DBW item then simply swap the 6 pin TPS/DBW plug on the Renault loom to suit to (also a 6 pin so easy peasy). Could even make a very small 3cm patch cable to change the plug terminations to suit and then it would be p'n'p.