Yeah I'd need another F4R, then transfer the rods or keep the bottom end stock with only ARP bolts (just not sure how much work to swap rods would be with respect to bearings etc).
I would transfer my head as it has: cams, springs, valves. - But would need to blue the engine to check valve clearances. So if I needed to rebate the pistons then the rod swap would def happen. I might (almost def!) send the head of to ALD for porting first.
Then of course ITB's with a Jenvey DBW module - almost plug and play this route and I think I'd do it myself in thems of remove and refit engine. Also do the ITB stuff myself as I've done ITB conversions before. It's almost warm outside which is why I gave up DIY'ing pretty much, without a warm garage it's properly **** working on cars mostly.
I'd rather see the K20 through though of course, but it gets to a point where I have to draw a line and say enough is enough. I can't wait forever. I'm thinking if it's not gone in by this weekend then I'll pull the plug and maybe sell the K20. I did think I'd keep it regardless but I spent £2300 on the engine and box (with loom, shafts, gear cables, aircon, alt etc) - I think it was 29k on the engine and 21k on the box - so I'm sure I'd get £2000 back as a package and that would pay for nearly everything I need staying Renault.
Battery has been spot on and not on charge, very glad I went for the PC950 over the PC680 because of the reserve power it offered. I take the car out once a week on the supermarket run for exactly that reason though to keep the car turned over, juice it up a bit and generally moving a little. The looks I get are nuts, mostly disbelief because it honestly sounds incredible at the moment, throbby and wobbly exactly like a Scoob lmao!!