LY200 - too loud or blow up again, taking bets!

Yep £85 from some chap of CSOC. I could have got them for less delivery as he's Bracknell way and I'm often there for work, would have been £77 each! But I needed them for the refurbing.
I want suspension, the fistable arch is just not cutting the mustard!

John yes I'll be at Bedford (assuming my knackered steering squib isn't terminal, although I'm hoping I'll have enough time to order a new one from Renault and fit it anyway if it is).
I'm charging £5 a sit though...gotta recoup the cost :tongueout:
 
Tea will probably cost as much knowing these trackday venues! Bloody captive audience = bend over time!! Anyway.....yes hopefully I'll be there and see you then :thumbup:
 
My other half lives in Bracknell, which means I'm obviously there a lot. 77 quid? What's this fella called?!
 
Deaks said:
My other half lives in Bracknell, which means I'm obviously there a lot. 77 quid? What's this fella called?!
Click to expand...

I'll PM you.

john_walker74 said:
We will bring our own kettle etc to make tea!
Click to expand...

Not a bad idea. Actually what's the garage situation like? It's been many years since I did Bedford GT, iirc is it's just a small run of them in the centre of the track? First come first served I guess?
 
Wheels in and thanks to Tech 1 for tuning off the airbag lights properly in Clip too :smile:
Feels a nicer place to be now but still very factory/liveable etc; lowered Recaro, RS gear knob, and 'because racecar' wheel and SPA gauge in the vent :lol:
Also one of my complaints with the Clio was I didn't feel the wheel came close enough, with the deep dish on this wheel problem solved - I'm not even fully extending the column now.

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However.... I made a blunder which is expensive to replace! I wired up the horn incorrectly and the burning I smelt........the f'ing clock spring! :worried: £146 to replace and I have discovered the world most expensive fuse :blush:hmy:
Paul took it all apart and carefully stripped the wires out (which were the cause of the clicking noise) and refitted it. So it's all steering perfectly once again and the trackday is definitely on :jase2:
I don't have cruise or TC anyway due to the standalone ECU, and obviously the airbag has now gone so I'll wait to replace the squib unit for the next MOT as all I want it for is the horn. In the mean time I'll stick to dipping the clutch as my horn :wink:

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25295811012_501f326936_c.jpgPR_160227_MSVT_BA_0388.jpg by Richard Gray, on Flickr

25295820132_d02f08ae1b_c.jpgPR_160227_MSVT_BA_0546.jpg by Richard Gray, on Flickr

25388000366_ed0370d5e7_c.jpgPR_160227_MSVT_BA_1362.jpg by Richard Gray, on Flickr

25118560780_c72d31f57d_c.jpgPR_160227_MSVT_BA_1591.jpg by Richard Gray, on Flickr

25321200051_d8ee81c14c_c.jpgPR_160227_MSVT_BA_1639.jpg by Richard Gray, on Flickr

25414184155_7e9389c9c0_c.jpgPR_160227_MSVT_BA_1917.jpg by Richard Gray, on Flickr

25321216021_147dd0b12d_c.jpgPR_160227_MSVT_BA_2079.jpg by Richard Gray, on Flickr


Wounded the car...
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Replaced the coil on the black plug and also stuck 4 more plugs in, cured the misfire/splutter but will see how it is after a few hundred miles before I'm happy it's not an injector or something instead.
 
Yeah their pro tog took some great shots for sure.

I think it's a failed coil, I swapped the 2 plugs around for a day while I waited for a new coil to arrive and the dirty one cleaned up and a clean one started dry fouling in their swapped positions. So it is either the coil or injector on that cyl.
IMO coil is most likely and having now replaced it the car no longer splutters like was...so I'm 99% sure it's fixed but I'll wait for some decent mileage before booking another track day. I heard a slight pop when gunning it earlier so (not overrun like normal) so we'll see....! Plugs out on the weekend will confirm or deny as I've got a good couple of hundred miles to do next couple of days.

Should be sound and then I'll take it for a map as the part throttle still needs doing and closed-loop turning back on.
 
Yeah can't fault Momo stuff generally :smile:, it's a model 08, bought it from JJC I think it was off eBay.
 
Every time I read your thread I'm amazed how much time and effort you put in your car, really amazing to see! And a lot of respect too go the forged way, if I had the money:innocent:!

Love the new steering wheel, a shame we can't fit it in Belgium legally for the road.

A really shame about the seat frame.. You'd better ordered it with me, better fitment and saved €200 :-p. But that aside for that amount of money and a professional company like that should deliver a much better product..

But keep the good work up!
 
Thanks although time and effort is about to reach new highs I think! :blush:
Pending compression check tomorrow I'll know more, but basically the amount of oil I've just used in the last 300 miles is staggering! And the oil since and during the track day is enough to probably physically bath in!

So the coil pack hasn't fixed it, which points to an injector sticking open, which would explain the oil consumption if it's a bore washed cylinder! So expecting cyl3 to be down on CR on the tester tomorrow :worried:

I guess it could be valve seals but the amount it's used it has to be rings/bore IMO....and I'm categorically not rebuilding the bottom end.
Instead I'm going to make a couple of calls, do a lot of research and then start the process of a K20 swap.
Stock bottom end, cams, double valve springs, RBC inlet and hybrid exh manifold using R3 as the base. Obv mapped on the standalone with iVtec control and should be talking 250-260bhp and MANY revs :smiley:

Need a Quaife or Wavetrac in the Honda box along with a close final drive and it'll be a proper weapon.
 
Seems initially excessive but I can't see another option?

Rough prices were I to stay F4R:
-Rebuild, £1500 (massive kick in the balls cost too just to get back on track)
-ITBs, £1500
-Headwork, allow up to £800
-Bigger cams, £800
-Mapping, £500
--------
£5000 +/- £500.
Result = up to 240bhp depending on cam choice really, and forged bottom end not suited to daily winter abuse again, meaning what another rebuild to 83.5mm next year!?

Vs.
-K20 engine, £1500
-Box, £500
-Loom, £100
-Cams, £1100
-Double springs, £300
-RBC inlet, £250
-Mapping, £500
----------
£4250 ish
Result = 250-260bhp, stock bottom end able to take everything you can throw at it.

Now I appreciate I haven't factored install yet, but going Honda and I'm already £1000 up.

Plus I can sell the good bits from my engine (rough off the top of my head prices for now):
-Arrow rods, £500 (awesome rods about £1100 new)
-Pistons, £250 (£576 new and nothing wrong with the pistons - you'd buy new rings anyway)
-Head as-is, £700 (includes £700 cat cams, £144 cat cams springs, £384 Supertech valves)
-Misc stuff, £250 (TB, inlet, all sensors, injectors, coils etc)
-Gearbox, £800 (rebuilt 6 months ago with maybe 4k on it, new 3rd and 4th syncro, 003 ratio set with 4.7 short final drive, Quaife)
-TTV Steel flywheel, £200 (£327 new)
------------
I think I can return easily enough £2500 anyway

plus the £1000 saved, means I have £3500 to:
-Install the K20 on custom mounts
-Make sure cable change is working
-Have the header modified to suit
-Custom drive shafts
-Mate fuel and water systems (I can do easily)
-Wiring (based on K20 loom into my SC ECU harness should be not too hard so I can do)

I reckon that's massively doable for that money and as the car is not a daily whilst this happens I can remove the engine. Once it's located and mounts built and welded I can bring it back to finish most of the time consuming parts.

The LSD and shorter FD can be a stage 2 essentially once it's all working or as the project progresses I'll have a better handle on the costs so can just slap um in as I go.
 
you sir are crazy and that is all...

I remember an old thread on pistonheads going like "what engine would you put on what car if money was not an object" and what I posted was the above. A k20 engine in a clio mk3 RS. I can't think of anything better as far as FWD is concerned.
 
Well an F20C and box plus the prop/diff would be better, I'll suggest it but I think it'll be K only!!
Need to get the bay measured anyway, iirc is K and F4R are about the same when I had a cursory look a while back - but it's a fundamental piece that needs to be ascertained first!
 
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