PITA
Paid Member
The cracking noise is the ribbon cable crunching up, mine did this when I changed my steering wheel too.
Yeah I've made the same mistake on mine, I've fitted an aftermarket steering wheel with OMP boss and thought everything was fine as,you know,the boss is made to fit a Clio MK3 but it's crap.Before I put it all back together I compared the two steering wheels and what caused this problem with the damaged clock spring?
Noticed that the OMP-wheel is a little shorter and perhaps puts more pressure on the clock spring and damaged it that way or maybe just torqued to the wrong spec?
Anyway, hope to avoid this when I get my new clock spring.
View attachment 155356
Unfortunately they do here in Sweden if it is xenon. I tried to adjust it myself but when i restart the leveling system the lights are way off.They've never failed it on headlight aim?
It's normal practice for them to just adjust them for you. That is on the premise that the mechanism hasn't failed.
I'm not too certain on the best way forward.Unfortunately they do here in Sweden if it is xenon. I tried to adjust it myself but when i restart the leveling system the lights are way off.
Do I need to take it for calibration becuse of the sensor on the rear axle?
yes, when i had it on the ramp for the MOT i got in and adjusted the screws so it was spot on the technicians equipment. But when she restarted it the lights were off and super low`?I'm not too certain on the best way forward.
The headlight aim has adjuster screws on the light unit itself, just like any other headlamp. These need to be adjusted ideally by someone who has the beam measuring equipment.
The sensor doesn't really 'affect' the 'true' aim, it just adjusts it continuously depending on how the suspension is loaded.
yep, car was running. Will have a look tomorrow when i disassemble the lightsDid you try to adjust them whilst the car was running?
Perhaps there is an issue with the mechanism/motor. I know the mechanism can become de-attached from the screw rod.
No, used them on smaller tracks previously but don´t recall them feeling "crashy" then. The experience has been good so far, it is much stiffer and grips a lot better. But now I´ve driven it down to the ring and along the autobahn which is another thing. So I think it is my reference how It "should" feel that is lacking the most?Was that your first track day with Gaz Golds? I have been using them for a few years now and really like them. I have stiff front springs. My car ride height is not as low as others - I still have each liners and have about 3 degrees of negative camber at the front. I like the ride as it is stiff but I would not describe mine as crashy on track.
But, if the dampers are set to stiff and I drive down a bumpy road the car does bounce around, particularly at the rear.
Embarrassingly I don´t remember (bought them 3 yrs ago), I could not find it in the mailbox (they were ordered via K-tec) but have some prints here. Looks like 550lbs front and back?What weight springs did you order your Gaz’s with?
Did some more investigation and I concluded that it´s 650 front and 450 rear.In which case, that would explain the stiffness on the rear.
Mine was pretty bouncy with 350 rears, but it was only really noticeable down from T13 to Hatzenbach, and also Dottinger Hohe.
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