Glacier White 200 Cup
- Thread starter burrellbloke
- Start date
PITA
Paid Member
burrellbloke
Paid Member
Thanks Craig.
I have ordered a Mocal sandwich plate now together with an oil pressure, and oil temperature sensor, to wire in the CANchecked unit.
burrellbloke
Paid Member
I was a bit quick with the ordering. We have now ordered a Susa plate without the oil cooler feeder feeds. @EthanMenace has been speaking to @LiamP and is going to get a custom made line from HEL with the pressure sensor attached on a pigtail.The one I posted was for an oil cooler too.
They do one purely for sensors - Link
Apologies if you’ve already ordered, I thought you had a cooler but reading back it was just suggested you might get one
burrellbloke
Paid Member
It’s nearly the end of the year and it has been quite eventful for the Clio. This year has been good fun with the usual smattering of track days, upgrades, and generally getting over the crash that meant the car had to be reshelled. Cadwell Park was a great track, Thurxton was a bit meh, Brands Hatch was good fun driving the Clio and the GR Yaris back to back, Oulton Park was good to meet up with others albeit it was a bit wet.
The back end of the car is now complete with a strengthened rear beam, spherical beam bearings, and a Cup spoiler. Aside from the usual maintenance of replacing the brake pads and discs I cannot think of any real improvements that we can make to the rear of the car at the moment.
Upgrades for 2024 will focus on the front end of the car as we intend to go stiff and spherical.
The six balljoints on the car are only a few years old but as we have spare arms and spare hubs we will do them again. The arms are with AW Motorworks now to have spherical bearings put in the arms and new ball joints. The subframe is also with Alex to be power coated and have solid PMS subframe bushes put in. We should get those parts back in mid January 2024.
We are going to order the parts for a Cup racer front end in February 2024 which will hopefully improve the handling with the roll centre correction effect. That handling of the car is pretty good at the moment so if it can be improved anymore then I can’t wait to drive it. I suspect that once we get the Cup racer front end on the Oz track wheels that we use may not fit anymore as the offset may be too low. At the moment the negative camber prevents most of the rubbing on the wheel arches and the edge of the front bumper. The car normally sits on a set of Speedlines that have road/wet tyres on and we have a spare set of Speedlines (both sets are 7.5J wheels) that we can use as track wheels if the Cup racer front end means we cannot use the Ozs anymore.
When the Cup racer front end has been done can then take a spare set of front hubs and put in them some uprated ball joints and new wheel bearings. Hopefully we can get the hubs done by April or May 2024.
That will leave a few bits to finish off like a PMS solid engine mount kit to really stiffen things up in time for a long drive to the Nurburgring in July 2024. The car will probably need some new brake pads before the summer trip.
After the Nurburgring trip we might swap out the Clio Brembo callipers at the front and replace them with a set of Megane 3 Brembo callipers. Ethan has now replaced the callipers on his Megane so we have a spare set available that would need to be refurbished by MS Custom Engineering as they look a bit tatty. This would also involve getting new brake pads and discs so could be reasonably expensive.
In addition to the bigger projects we will continue tinkering with the CANchecked device. We have ordered an oil pressure sensor, an oil temperature sensor and a sandwich plate so that we can monitor and log the data. We have decided not to get an oil cooler at this stage, but if we notice on hot track days the oil temperature is getting too hot we can always revisit that decision.
I thought that we would have removed the bulk of the interior of the car this year, but it is still there and there is no rush to remove it if we are driving across Europe in the car in the summer.
We have already booked a few track days for next year:
The back end of the car is now complete with a strengthened rear beam, spherical beam bearings, and a Cup spoiler. Aside from the usual maintenance of replacing the brake pads and discs I cannot think of any real improvements that we can make to the rear of the car at the moment.
Upgrades for 2024 will focus on the front end of the car as we intend to go stiff and spherical.
The six balljoints on the car are only a few years old but as we have spare arms and spare hubs we will do them again. The arms are with AW Motorworks now to have spherical bearings put in the arms and new ball joints. The subframe is also with Alex to be power coated and have solid PMS subframe bushes put in. We should get those parts back in mid January 2024.
We are going to order the parts for a Cup racer front end in February 2024 which will hopefully improve the handling with the roll centre correction effect. That handling of the car is pretty good at the moment so if it can be improved anymore then I can’t wait to drive it. I suspect that once we get the Cup racer front end on the Oz track wheels that we use may not fit anymore as the offset may be too low. At the moment the negative camber prevents most of the rubbing on the wheel arches and the edge of the front bumper. The car normally sits on a set of Speedlines that have road/wet tyres on and we have a spare set of Speedlines (both sets are 7.5J wheels) that we can use as track wheels if the Cup racer front end means we cannot use the Ozs anymore.
When the Cup racer front end has been done can then take a spare set of front hubs and put in them some uprated ball joints and new wheel bearings. Hopefully we can get the hubs done by April or May 2024.
That will leave a few bits to finish off like a PMS solid engine mount kit to really stiffen things up in time for a long drive to the Nurburgring in July 2024. The car will probably need some new brake pads before the summer trip.
After the Nurburgring trip we might swap out the Clio Brembo callipers at the front and replace them with a set of Megane 3 Brembo callipers. Ethan has now replaced the callipers on his Megane so we have a spare set available that would need to be refurbished by MS Custom Engineering as they look a bit tatty. This would also involve getting new brake pads and discs so could be reasonably expensive.
In addition to the bigger projects we will continue tinkering with the CANchecked device. We have ordered an oil pressure sensor, an oil temperature sensor and a sandwich plate so that we can monitor and log the data. We have decided not to get an oil cooler at this stage, but if we notice on hot track days the oil temperature is getting too hot we can always revisit that decision.
I thought that we would have removed the bulk of the interior of the car this year, but it is still there and there is no rush to remove it if we are driving across Europe in the car in the summer.
We have already booked a few track days for next year:
- Snetteron on 17th February 2024 with MSV
- Donington Park on 6th March 2024 with Track Obsession
- Cadwell Park on 22nd May 2024 with Track Obsession
- Nurburgring on 1st July 2024 with Circuit Days
burrellbloke
Paid Member
The parts have arrived for the oil pressure sensor and oil temperature sensor installation.
One sandwich plate, a CANchecked oil pressure sensor and a CANchecked temperature sensor. @EthanMenace has also acquired a custom made HEL line to plumb in the pressure sensor and attach it on a bracket away from the sandwich plate to shamelessly copy @LiamP. The image below is from Liam. This also allows us to use the 1/8 threads on the sandwich plate but also use the M10 thread on the pressure sensor.
The sensors will provide the data to the CANchecked display in the car to monitor them and log them on track days. Although we have never had a problem with temperatures or pressures it will be nice to be able to know when the car is warm enough to start pushing it.
@EthanMenace will give himself a crash course, via YouTube, to work out how to wire in the sensors and route the wiring in to the main cabin. He has obtained a Duestch connector kit and crimpers to do the job properly.
One sandwich plate, a CANchecked oil pressure sensor and a CANchecked temperature sensor. @EthanMenace has also acquired a custom made HEL line to plumb in the pressure sensor and attach it on a bracket away from the sandwich plate to shamelessly copy @LiamP. The image below is from Liam. This also allows us to use the 1/8 threads on the sandwich plate but also use the M10 thread on the pressure sensor.
The sensors will provide the data to the CANchecked display in the car to monitor them and log them on track days. Although we have never had a problem with temperatures or pressures it will be nice to be able to know when the car is warm enough to start pushing it.
@EthanMenace will give himself a crash course, via YouTube, to work out how to wire in the sensors and route the wiring in to the main cabin. He has obtained a Duestch connector kit and crimpers to do the job properly.
Last edited:
burrellbloke
Paid Member
What are people’s views on harnesses, 5 or 6 point?
We have got a four point TRS harness that has a fifth buckle hole that is not used at the moment. Our Corbeau bucket seats have space for a crutch strap.
We could get a single crutch strap like this:
Or get a double crutch strap that fits in to the single buckle hole like this:
We have got a four point TRS harness that has a fifth buckle hole that is not used at the moment. Our Corbeau bucket seats have space for a crutch strap.
We could get a single crutch strap like this:
Or get a double crutch strap that fits in to the single buckle hole like this:
Last edited:
RSRowe
Paid Member
I prefer 6 points personally.
5’s you’re faced with being uncomfortable, or putting it down one side of your trouser snake.
5’s you’re faced with being uncomfortable, or putting it down one side of your trouser snake.
Helpimonfire
Paid Member
I have TRS Magnums in mine and were originally 4 point. The buckle has the hole to add the extra strap so you can crush your nads in style, mine are now a 6 point with the addition of the £30 strap or whatever it cost me.
burrellbloke
Paid Member
Where did you secure the two points of the crutch strap to? Did you add two more eyelets to the floor?
Dowling93
Paid Member
The time I did it I welded two spreader plates along the raised cross member that the seat rails sit on and just threaded in the harness eye bolts. You could also drill into the floor and use spreader plates on the underside of the car too if you don't have access to a welder.
I'd get you a picture but I won't be near the car until the weekend
burrellbloke
Paid Member
RSRowe
Paid Member
I went to the seat frame cross member as above. Spreaders which I then welded in too.
The Meg is through the floor
The Meg is through the floor
Helpimonfire
Paid Member
Yeah just punted a couple more holes in the floor. I can't remember if I did both sides or just the drivers side, can't say I'm too concerned about the passenger though
PITA
Paid Member
burrellbloke
Paid Member
Thank you to everybody for your comments on the crutch straps and eyelet bolts. I have ordered a set of crutch straps to add to our TRS Magnum harnesses which will give us a six point harness. We will just use eyelet bolts and spreader plates and bolt them through the floor. It would be great to weld them in but I don't know anyone with a welder and @EthanMenace has yet to learn how to weld.
@EthanMenace has now installed the oil temperature and oil temperature sensors. It was a bit of a faff (well I say faff but I did not do any of the work) as it involved removing the inlet manifolds to make space to get the sandwich plate on. The oil was dropped to make sure the job was done as cleanly as possible.
The new Susa sandwich plate was put on together with some Loctite thread locker. The temperature sensor is screwed directly in to the sandwich plate with a 1/8 thread. The pressure sensor had a M10 thread so was mounted on a bracket with a HEL line screwed in to the sandwich plate end.
The sensors needed a new wiring loom added to the car so Ethan set about creating a loom from scratch with loom sleeving and Deutsche connectors.
The sensor loom has been routed through the engine bay and a new hole was drilled through the firewall as it was too big to squeeze through with the power cables from the battery relocation installation.
The sensors have been wired in to the CANchecked display and show up in the picture below as AIN1 OilT and AIN4 OilP at the moment.
The car has been filled up with some Fuchs Titan Race Pro S oil ready for the next track day at Snetterton on 17th February 2024.
I also cleaned the green cotton filter in the V6 airbox in the week.
I bought a cleaning kit from Demon Tweeks. When the filter came out it was covered in crap and had bits of dirt and debris embedded between the ridges of the filter.
The cleaning kit comes with a detergent to wash the filter and a protective oil to apply when the filter had been cleaned and was dry.
After some scrubbing the filter came up a lot cleaner.
I have never used a reusable filter before so it was quite novel to just give it a wash and then reuse it.
@EthanMenace has now installed the oil temperature and oil temperature sensors. It was a bit of a faff (well I say faff but I did not do any of the work) as it involved removing the inlet manifolds to make space to get the sandwich plate on. The oil was dropped to make sure the job was done as cleanly as possible.
The new Susa sandwich plate was put on together with some Loctite thread locker. The temperature sensor is screwed directly in to the sandwich plate with a 1/8 thread. The pressure sensor had a M10 thread so was mounted on a bracket with a HEL line screwed in to the sandwich plate end.
The sensors needed a new wiring loom added to the car so Ethan set about creating a loom from scratch with loom sleeving and Deutsche connectors.
The sensor loom has been routed through the engine bay and a new hole was drilled through the firewall as it was too big to squeeze through with the power cables from the battery relocation installation.
The sensors have been wired in to the CANchecked display and show up in the picture below as AIN1 OilT and AIN4 OilP at the moment.
The car has been filled up with some Fuchs Titan Race Pro S oil ready for the next track day at Snetterton on 17th February 2024.
I also cleaned the green cotton filter in the V6 airbox in the week.
I bought a cleaning kit from Demon Tweeks. When the filter came out it was covered in crap and had bits of dirt and debris embedded between the ridges of the filter.
The cleaning kit comes with a detergent to wash the filter and a protective oil to apply when the filter had been cleaned and was dry.
After some scrubbing the filter came up a lot cleaner.
I have never used a reusable filter before so it was quite novel to just give it a wash and then reuse it.
Last edited:
burrellbloke
Paid Member
We went to AW Motorworks today to drop off @EthanMenace's Megane for a belts service. We had dropped off a subframe and a set of front suspension arms to Alex in December 2023 to refurbish for us and we collected them today.
The front suspension arms have had a set of Pure Motorsport wishbone bearing kit put in. The old rubber bushes have gone and have been replaced with either spherical bearings or solid bushes.
The subframe has been powder coated.
Alex sent me a text and said, "What colour do you want the sub frame done". I sent Ethan a text and he said, "Would yellow be too much?" So I told Alex to get it done in yellow. It might not be a colour that everyone likes but it has come out quite good. The subframe has had a set of Pure Motorsport solid bushes put in.
The Cup Racer front end build has begun.
The first parts arrived on Friday, although they are only a set of spacers to push out the front wings to hopefully avoid the extra width of the set up rubbing away the arches. I have seen a few cars like this and I would like to avoid having to cut up the arches or let them get to this stage.
We have now ordered the Pure Motorsport Cup Racer EE Bracket Kit. I am looking forward to see how the kit changes the cars performance and handling. It should be firm and stiff at the back and front when all of the work has been done.
We will wait until we have the Cur Racer front end parts before installing the sub frame and front arms. With this lot installed there will be very few rubber bushes left on the car. I am sure it will be a dream to drive to and from track days with more rattles, vibrations and hums.
The front suspension arms have had a set of Pure Motorsport wishbone bearing kit put in. The old rubber bushes have gone and have been replaced with either spherical bearings or solid bushes.
The subframe has been powder coated.
Alex sent me a text and said, "What colour do you want the sub frame done". I sent Ethan a text and he said, "Would yellow be too much?" So I told Alex to get it done in yellow. It might not be a colour that everyone likes but it has come out quite good. The subframe has had a set of Pure Motorsport solid bushes put in.
The Cup Racer front end build has begun.
The first parts arrived on Friday, although they are only a set of spacers to push out the front wings to hopefully avoid the extra width of the set up rubbing away the arches. I have seen a few cars like this and I would like to avoid having to cut up the arches or let them get to this stage.
We have now ordered the Pure Motorsport Cup Racer EE Bracket Kit. I am looking forward to see how the kit changes the cars performance and handling. It should be firm and stiff at the back and front when all of the work has been done.
We will wait until we have the Cur Racer front end parts before installing the sub frame and front arms. With this lot installed there will be very few rubber bushes left on the car. I am sure it will be a dream to drive to and from track days with more rattles, vibrations and hums.
Dowling93
Paid Member
I'm planning on doing similar myself for a pressure and temp sensor, was the use of the braided line rather than adapter's just for space and cleanliness?
burrellbloke
Paid Member
The pressure sensor can be affected by vibrations so when it sits on a bracket and cushioned by a grommet it should work better and last longer - or at least that is what we were told. We could have just put in an adapter in the sandwich plate from 1/8 to M10 but this set up looks nicer.
Similar Thread Suggestions
| Thread starter | Similar threads | Forum | Replies | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Clio 200 glacier white | Gallery | 0 | |
| S | 2010 Clio 200 with Cup pack, Glacier White, 27K miles, £8,250 | Clios For Sale | 3 | |
| C | For Sale: 2008 Glacier White Cup with Recaros | Clios For Sale | 7 | |
| L | Sold: 2008 clio 197 glacier white | Clios For Sale | 10 | |
|
??12 TBY Glacier White 200 Cup in Aberystwyth | Spotted | 0 |