Zubans LY RS200

For the suspension side of things I got a bit click happy one day and ordered the front end from a cup racer, this part will be done in two stages with some of it being fitted now and some of it in the second phase yet to happen.

Moved the rear engine bracket from the stock subframe to the cup racer subframe.

Cup racer subframe as it came.

Drilled out the left over pieces.

I drilled out the welds on the stock subframe for the mount and transferred it to the cup racer subframe. PS: I'm not a welder I'm a self taught wannabee TIG welder but i dont think its going to fall off.

The finished article, and a couple photos of the different pieces used to mount the forward part of the subframe to the chassis.
All of the front ball joints were replaced using my press and some sheer stubbornness.

Everything needed to push the old ball joints out of the front hubs was fabricated so if I ever needed to do it again it would be straightforward.

Whilst refreshing the hubs, I didn't take any photo's, but I did buy the pure motorsport full exhaust with sports cat and resonator, and WOW what a thing.

The front suspension towers were also widened to take a set of adjustable top mounts, some more work to be done on them in the future.

Re-assembly begins.

Lightweight flywheel installed.

New clutch.

Gearbox on.

Home again.
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Pure motorsport exhaust system fitted, very happy with it.

Lithium ion battery fitted, not final setup but will do to get it going again.

Test fitting new wheels, required a little material removed from the brake caliper, clio 172/182 conversions remove more from these callipers when fitting them under 15/16 inch wheels without problems so no concerns there, braking is epic, I've gone with Ferodo DS 1.11 up front, Brembo high carbon discs, and Ferodo DS 2500 rear pads. The wheels i'm running are Japan Racing JR3 which are 16 inch rims at 6.7kg a rim with 205/45/16 tyres for a massive weight saving and around a 5% change in gearing towards acceleration.

Last photo of it parked on the neighbours driveway. I'm looking to run a set of 17" wheels on the road and keep the 16" ones for the track so the cheaper wheels/tyres works for the track with no need to have a permanent final drive change.
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Fair play! Looks great. I love the "Click happy" bit haha. How does it feel with the full cup car front end?

Sent from my AC2003 using Tapatalk
I have only got the cup racer subframe fitted at the moment, I’ve not yet fitted extended brackets, that’s part of the next phase, I still have to order driveshafts but have everything else needed to install them.

It is fully poly/spherical bushes and bearings or solid mounts up front now and with the lsd the way it corners is fantastic, a big leap forward from what was already a very agile car.
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Forgot to mention when they tested the hazard light button they pushed the whole button out of the console lol, thankfully the lights worked and he let me off as long as I got it clipped in properly right away.

I was a bit concerned about getting the car tested, as with this level of mods to the car its all down to tester discretion and i've had problems before with testers writing huge lists of stuff because i've taken the rear seats out, not really a problem if your getting the car prepped by a garage or tuner as they will know where to send it, but if doing it all yourself like me, its best to talk to a few garages/testers so you know which ones are dealing with track/motorsport cars and have a conversation with them about the car, I had to make some fairly minor changes to the cars ride height, steering wheel etc before the car went in for a proper test and everything went smoothly in the end with minimal fuss, I found out who does some of the local rally cars and they told me what they would be happy with in terms of cage, airbags and so on, they've also recommended me somewhere to get my geo setup done so really pays to just have that chat with them.

Got a proper shakedown drive tonight, got a to do list building of things to do.

1. Exhaust must be close enough to the body somewhere to touch at certain rpm/circumstances which is annoying but cant need much to sort.
2. previously mentioned geometry setup needed, Whole front end rebuilt with castor bushes etc so not surprised about that but not bad given I did a string job on a not totally even driveway.
3. somethings moving enough to bang at the end of extreme braking to a stop. Need to figure that one out, braking is savage with the ds1.11's.
4. Possible tyre rub in the rear under full compression, not a big deal.
5. Few rattles in the rear, mostly think its just securing some parts of the loom better now that the interior is gone.
6. Exhaust noise when cruising is pretty boomy, I have some lightweight motorsport carpet that i'll try at some point to see if it takes the edge off. its awesome at full chat lol.


1. The way the nose moves around is a good step up than before when I just had the coilovers, cleaner response, less inertia, feels like less roll even though I havent done anything to the rear end, limits moved up again but have work to do before I can explore them.
2. The LSD is awesome, the chassis was already great, but the diff elevates it to another level sucking you into the corner with the rear just rotating gently behind the nose, I cant wait to fully explore it.
3. The lightening of the drivetrain, during my first drive prior to the MOT, I noticed a lack of torque low down in the rev range, sub 3-4 thousand rpm compared to before, this worried me in terms whether I'd setup the engine timing right as it felt down on power, I think now I need a remap as the pre-cat is gone, and I have bogging issues below 3000rpm, but from 4000rpm onwards its great, 4th pulls like 3rd used to, at least from my memory, I'll need to find a mapper close to me but it pulls to the redline with a much more present sinking into your seat feeling than before. The combination of several kilo's taken off of the engine rotating assembly, flywheel/cam pulley and crank pulley seems to have worked, along with the 16 inch wheels, 6.7kg each (£111 each) and the 5.8% shorter gearing seems to have paid off but until I can get it verified I wont know, but the old Butt dyno says yes.
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You really don't mess about do you?! Cracking build so far, I'm impressed you got 16s to fit, I don't think I'd ever take material off my calipers to be fair!
I researched it a fair bit first and when I saw that some of the 1*2 guys had done it when fitting the calipers to them I was confident, it’s not much that needed to be taken off just rounding off two corners and making sure there’s no sharp edges left afterwords. I think some 16’s just wouldn’t be suitable, I tried autec wizards and they would have needed more taken off, the jr3’s on it now had more clearance, I’ve also got a 10m spacer up front. It’s as much an experiment as anything and if it didn’t work out I’ve another car those wheels would end up on.
Think I've got an intermittent clearance issue with the exhaust manifold and the front anti roll bar, the cup racer subframe sits a little closer to the body of the car so the bar is a few mm higher up, and I'm getting the occasional rattle and clonk, has anyone encountered this? I'm wondering if some adjustable arb links would allow me to rotate the bar enough to maintain clearance.

Found some pictures of testing the brake setup for 16's, setup on an used disc and bearing, Its not a lot of material that needed to be remove, and it required hex bolts instead of the cap heads for mounting the calliper, from memory I think I aimed for about 3mm clearance at any given point, hence the drill bit for testing. Once I was happy with everything I cleaned up and rebuilt the calliper with fresh pistons and seals, I didn't repaint them in case I ran into issues later and didn't want to waste the effort.


Also I originally intended to use studs and nuts for wheel mounting, but could not get a setup I was happy with, in the end I went with bolts, and for the weight obsessive the stud/nut was quite a few grams heavier than just the nuts, in the end I keep one stud handy, turn it in a bit by hand, mount the wheel and then insert the bolts.
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That's actually a lot less material than I had in my head to be fair. Do you find it changes the handling characteristics going to a smaller wheel or would it be a placebo effect? I know offset/spacers can make a difference but I can't say I've ever gone down in wheel size before!
A little more than that was removed but not much other than to smooth it off, when I next have a wheel off I will take some better pics. So far nothing negative to report, the only thing I noticed is a stronger self centring feeling, probably due to the castor bushes etc , It needs a proper geo setup but I had it out today and I'm having to recalibrate my brain.
That's actually a lot less material than I had in my head to be fair. Do you find it changes the handling characteristics going to a smaller wheel or would it be a placebo effect? I know offset/spacers can make a difference but I can't say I've ever gone down in wheel size before!

Regarding the handling difference there’s been so much changed I don’t really know what each thing contributes individually but it is a big step up over what was already a great handling car with less roll and a more direct and reactive front end. Can’t wait to eventually fit the extended EE brackets. The main contribution from the change in wheel size is the reduction in rotating weight by almost half and the shorter gearing which is about 5.8% shorter and you definitely feel it each gear has stronger pull.
Not a lot to add over the last few weeks other than getting some seat time, thinking about going to cup racer or pure motorsport engine mounts as even with the powerflex add in's there is more engine movement than i'm happy with so any thoughts on that would be appreciated.

Diff still taking a bit of reprogramming to get used to.

No Problems to report with the 16's so far, and really feel the benefits of the weight saving, 3rd feels stronger than 2nd used to, and quite happy with the look of the car overall, kept the ride height sensible. I might return to 17's for phase 2 but all to play for. IMG_0013.jpgIMG_0014.jpg
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16’s look great. You got any closer pics?
I always thought the 17’s looked a little large.
Fitting smaller wheels has always been my go to for most of my cars.
This does indeed sit very very well on the 16s. How quiet is the full PMS exhaust with the cat and resonator?
16’s look great. You got any closer pics?
I always thought the 17’s looked a little large.
Fitting smaller wheels has always been my go to for most of my cars.

thanks will get some closer pics when the weather here improves.

This does indeed sit very very well on the 16s. How quiet is the full PMS exhaust with the cat and resonator?

it’s pretty reasonable I would say,at Idle and just driving gently it’s just got a nice rounded sound and not loud or in any way anti social, at full throttle it’s loud but I have a stripped interior so it’s about as loud as I can accept and I’m going to try some lightweight carpet too see if it can just take the edge off and I’ll be happy.
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Hi all, thinking of selling this, with a young family, needing a bigger house and living so far from any track its just not getting used more than a couple dozen days a year and is mostly sitting around. Its running great with a great spec including cup racer front subframe and has the parts needed to fit the ee brackets just needs the extended driveshafts, so if anyone had idea's of how and where to sell it I would appreciate any idea's, given it's track spec I'm not sure how best to approach it, Not fully decided I'm parting with it but I'd let it go for the right money.
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LY’s seem to be fetch silly money on Facebook.
Write a full spec down and we can try to advise

I could be interested in your cup racer parts if you decided to sell separately
Knocked up a quick spec, its covered almost exactly 1000 miles since its mot last April, so any new or rebuilt parts listed have only done about 1000 miles. I didn't have kids when I started this build... Build is pretty well documented with pictures etc and has been done using OEM Renault parts or better.

2010 Clio RS200 sport with cup pack.
63k miles.
Liquid yellow.
Cup spoiler.
Track prepped.
Still retains keyless entry and start button.
Number plate CL10 FTW will remain with the car.
Projector headlights with black interior and cornering lights.

Engine/gearbox :
ARP rod bolts.
Alloy lightweight crank pulley.
Solid exhaust cam pulley (~700grams lighter than standard).
New Renault water pump, cambelt and tensioner fitted using correct Renault f4r timing kit.
New Renault inlet cam phaser.
TTV lightweight flywheel.
OEM Renault clutch plate and cover (new not remanufactured).
TRW clutch slave.
VAL LSD fitted along with new Renault diff bearings and gearbox seals.
Pure motorsport exhaust manifold.
Pure motorsport exhaust system with 200 cell sports cat and silencer.
Lightweight Powerlite LIPO battery (just over 2kg iirc).
Air Con delete with cup idler pulley.

Chassis :
KW V3 coilovers.
Compbrake front camber plates with custom machined mounts to fit the KW V3's and strut top modified to allow them to fit and adjust.
Powerflex engine mount inserts.
Powerflex black series front ARB bushes.
Superpro caster bushes in front wishbones.
All wishbone and swivel hub bushes replaced with uprated bushes from Rene.
ARB links replaced with new Mehle links.
Hub to wishbone links and all other hardware replaced with new OEM Renault parts
Genuine Clio cup racer front subframe (solid bushes) with lower engine link bracket added, associated front uprights to mount to chassis legs and aluminium X brace. Subframe mounting bolts are to cup racer spec.

Brakes :
Brembo high carbon disks on the front.
Renault R26 drilled rears with OEM bearings.
Braided brake lines front and rear.
Front Brembo calipers have been rebuilt with new pistons and seals.
TYP200 brake fluid.
Ferodo DS1.11 pads front.
Ferodo DS2500 pads rear.

Wheels/Tyres :
Japan racing JR3 16 inch wheels (6.7KG per rim)
Federal ST1 205/45/16 tyres.
10mm spacers on front for brake clearence.
5mm spacers rear.

Interior :
Stripped interior for weight saving.
Safety devices bolt in rear half cage with harness bar.
TRS 6 point harness's in yellow.
Mirco GT fixed bucket seats.
Sparco sub frames.
Lighter cup model dashboard.

Parts that come with car :
Spare front swivel hubs and carriers.
10mm stub spacers for rear never fitted.
Cup racer EE brackets.
Cup racer steering rack spacers.
Cup racer swivel hub lengthened tie rods.

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