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Ian read my comment 'im trying to keep cost down, not add power and improve reliability' and replied with a £10k race engine.

I think my clio would need to be a lot lighter before i put that in it. and i'd need a lot more money. Bank of England is doing it's best to ruin the fun for everyone..
Sell that German piece of crap and build a proper car:french:
 
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I wouldn’t start messing with racing bearings, depends on the brand but many have looser clearances designed for the higher output, for example I think ACL come in at about double standard, unless you are prepared for a BTTC ST style start up procedure I would stay away! In an ideal world the bearing shouldn't even wear as its the oil that is doing the hard work.

A simple refresh would be enough to keep things going strong, after that further bottom end reliability would come from balancing the crank (~£100), I can see from mine that the further away from the flywheel the worse the mains got (63k engine) This was then confirmed by the amount of material removed to get it within tolerance when balancing.

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You are in good hands with Alex :thumb:
 
If I was you @jimmybell I'd source an engine with as much of a back-story as possible, which would probably mean prioritising a 'forum' engine over an unknown engine from FB or eBay, even if it has higher miles. I'd rather have a 120k engine that's had regular oil changes with good oil, and taken to the redline every now and again, than a 60k engine that's been driven to the shops and serviced every 12k.

There's an interesting video on the Bathtub failure distribution model when it comes to replacing parts, it's a Land Rover video but the principle is the same:


I'd get that used engine delivered to Alex, with a brief (assuming your funds allow) to health check and build in reliability while it is on the engine stand out of the car. Subject to a good compression test I'd avoid opening the engine up if I didn't have to (for reasons explained in the video).

I'd have the block cleaned and then instruct the replacements of gaskets, seals, oil and water pumps, spark plugs, dephaser pulley and all the belts, and new fluids obviously. Depending on the state of the idler pulley (these seem to have a 'life'), I'd get that done at the same time. You've got an opportunity while the engine is out to do all the awkward stuff, so it would be a false economy to stick an unknown engine straight back in without some preventative maintenance and TLC whilst it's all in bits, whilst keeping any known good engine internals intact.

Interesting video! Rare examples of German humour.

I guess i’d be torn between avoiding introducing new components to run in vs trying to catch bearing wear before they fail. Seems to make sense to only replace stuff that is showing signs of real wear.. obviously if the belief is that my engine failure (and other common failures) comes from bearings spinning then it’s worth at least checking those.

Not sure how many track cars make it to 150k miles, though
 
Not sure how many track cars make it to 150k miles, though
A lot will depend on how well it has been looked after since it has been tracked. Since acquiring my Cup engine at about 72,000 miles it has been tracked many times but treated to oil changes frequently and serviced properly. There is no doubt that it get's its head kicked in on track days but it is also treated with great care in terms of its maintenance.

The problem is that if you open up an engine to see what the wear is like inside you are then spending quite a bit of money on labour to basically rebuild the engine, even if it is just to replace gaskets and parts that need replacing due to opening up the engine, and you do not change any of the internals.

My man maths is that if you can get an engine, and change it's belts, for less than the cost of paying buying the engine and paying someone to open it up and check on wear, then it is more economic just to buy an engine and hope for the best.

But, I am speaking from a slightly biased position as I have an engine to sell.

Engine Dynamics provide a "performance engine build" for about £4,000 if you provide an engine. https://www.engine-dynamics.com/Products/Product.asp?departmentid=307&id=105829
 
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yeah, i'd rather the ZPO shifter than £2k of a 'rebuild' to potentially save £2k to avoid swapping the engine again. :smiley:

the poor little car has been probably fed with a silver spoon until now but it doesn't seem practical to spend £4-5k just yet.

maybe if it ever makes it to racing spec...
 
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Is this yourself making a cameo a the start of the Tegiwa video in the GT3?
It is Jimmy's car. I saw it last night when Ethan showed me the video and told me he could see himself sat in the passenger seat of the Porsche.

The Citroen AX in the video is quite entertaining. I did not see it out on track much but I would like to know what engine was in it.
 
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PMS or ZPO? Any strong opinions?

ZPO certainly looks slightly cooler, but the PMS solid linkage is interesting me so currently leaning towards PMS for that reason.

Would also like some side skirts, maybe front splitter too if i can find one that looks OEM+ and fits well. Seems like lots of options here.