Who's using Cup Racer / R3 bits?

[krash67]

I can't see any difference in the track rod ends between road and race. Only thing you need is the coned shim and the nut- part of the bump steer set up.

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk

 

[A1axx]

I can't see any difference in the track rod ends between road and race. Only thing you need is the coned shim and the nut- part of the bump steer set up.

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk

Yea I'd agree with that ^

For clarity the Anti Rotation Links are 175mm between centres on the racer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[A1axx]

Updated

1) EE brackets
2) Anti rotation links (175mm on racer confirmed)
3) Steering arms/track rods (215 from cup to end on racer.. please compare to oem)
4) Drive shafts (+25mm measured on road car)
5)9mm rack shims
6)track rod end bump steer kit (from r sport)

...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[A1axx]

@dannyAG200

 

[DannyAG200]

Love this tech talk. I'm also in the process so finding info out about all the parts

 

[DannyAG200]

@cliokam you'll like this also

 

[TB Rich]

Updated

1) EE brackets
2) Anti rotation links (175mm on racer confirmed)
3) Steering arms/track rods (215 from cup to end on racer.. please compare to oem)
4) Drive shafts (+25mm measured on road car)
5)9mm rack shims
6)track rod end bump steer kit (from r sport)

...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As well as that list you'll want the steering rack lock limiting shims too.

 

[A1axx]

As well as that list you'll want the steering rack lock limiting shims too.

Forgot to add those, they are fitted to mine as well as sleeved drop links


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[A1axx]

Updated again..

1) Racer EE brackets (+2.5 degrees camber, roll centre correction & increased track)

2) Anti rotation links extended (175mm on racer confirmed)

3) Steering arms/track rods (215 from cup to end on racer.. please compare to oem)

4) Drive shafts (+25mm measured on road car)

5) 9mm Rack shims (part of bump steer kit)

6) Track rod end bump steer kit (from r sport)

7) Steering Rack Lock stops (around 30mm a side)

8) Sleeved drop links (don't look oem on my car..)

Sorry if I've missed anything else, please keep me updated for the essentials..





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TB Rich]

You already been driving with them then? How's it compare to a regular mk3 turning radius?

That's the main thing that puts me off the Cup Racer stuff tbh needing to run the lock limiters, really puts it in to track car from jack of all hatch :\
Otherwise Cup geo setup is win-win all round, as even on mine that I don't want to be an out-n-out track car - corrected roll centre would be sweet because I'd gain more effective wheel rate but without the adverse effects of over springing the car.

 

[A1axx]

You already been driving with them then? How's it compare to a regular mk3 turning radius?

That's the main thing that puts me off the Cup Racer stuff tbh needing to run the lock limiters, really puts it in to track car from jack of all hatch :\
Otherwise Cup geo setup is win-win all round, as even on mine that I don't want to be an out-n-out track car - corrected roll centre would be sweet because I'd gain more effective wheel rate but without the adverse effects of over springing the car.

Besides not being able to see out of it from being sat on the floor it's a little bit tricky to park. That's literally the only time I noticed it.. however I only realised it had them actually fitted the other day..

The lock on both the Clios is a bit rubbish lol..

For a daily I think the 3.5 ish degrees camber minimum is a bit crazy! I have those adjustable bushes, so should be able to cut it back to 3 if needed, think it will just remain with the wide broken suspension look [emoji51][emoji3]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TB Rich]

Yeah it's not the best standard, which is why I was concerned taking more lock away would be borderline mental for road.

Ah yeah good point, -2.5 static gain from the ee's wouldn't be ideal. That alone is on the top end of what I'd be wanting from a dual purpose car, using ad08r's and at most dz03g's that I may run after.
Though I wonder what you'd end up with on Cup EE's + the Compbrake top mounts adjusted all the way out?? I doubt I'll find anyone who will have tried it though!

 

[A1axx]

Yeah it's not the best standard, which is why I was concerned taking more lock away would be borderline mental for road.

Ah yeah good point, -2.5 static gain from the ee's wouldn't be ideal. That alone is on the top end of what I'd be wanting from a dual purpose car, using ad08r's and at most dz03g's that I may run after.
Though I wonder what you'd end up with on Cup EE's + the Compbrake top mounts adjusted all the way out?? I doubt I'll find anyone who will have tried it though!

Yea the main thing you don't want to do is extend the shaft too much. It's in a racer manual that you can't go less than 3.5 due to shaft length... The shafts that will be available are +25mm, which is probably enough for the top mounts in mid position, so more neg would be fine, but possibly starting to cause issues out the way in the positive direction...

Otherwise you need the shafts like 12mm longer again going by earlier posts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TB Rich]

If you can work out the exact track width gain from doing this, then I reckon a bit of trig and I could work out what the minimum neg would be on my top mounts. As I could measure mine out as is, and just substitute after the bottom of the triangle to factor the track width gain.
I've got a digital angle gauge too, been meaning to test it out so will have a play when the car is geo'd hopefully this week - and see if it matches both the tracking machines value, and then my maths!!

 

[A1axx]

It's something like 4mm a side at hub centre but with extra camber and the 5mm spacers it would translate to more on the ground! You can see the racer the top of the wheel is right under the arch but bottom is right out wide!!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[A1axx]

And mine, camberly challenged with 18mm spacers and 225s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[A1axx]

So who else wants to gather some bits? The first batch is 10 shafts!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Northloopcup]

So who else wants to gather some bits? The first batch is 10 shafts!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you can get me stuff to look at, I can get batches of anything cnc'd up mate.

 

[A1axx]

If you can get me stuff to look at, I can get batches of anything cnc'd up mate.

I think it's berrisford that are doing the shafts, afraid I can't afford the capital for 10 of those being made up, ££££!

The EE brackets were originally machined from aluminium I believe..? Someone will correct me.. however are definitely not the ones to have.. I bought the cast steel jobbies.

However I'm sure you could knock up the bump steer kit and rack stops for a lot less than Rsport! £74 for just 2 sleeve bits and spacers.

I am in a rush to get it done if I'm honest, I've less than a month from now and I'm back on track!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Northloopcup]

I think it's berrisford that are doing the shafts, afraid I can't afford the capital for 10 of those being made up, ££££!

The EE brackets were originally machined from aluminium I believe..? Someone will correct me.. however are definitely not the ones to have.. I bought the cast steel jobbies.

However I'm sure you could knock up the bump steer kit and rack stops for a lot less than Rsport! £74 for just 2 sleeve bits and spacers.

I am in a rush to get it done if I'm honest, I've less than a month from now and I'm back on track!

View attachment 18304


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah, well getting them sorted within a month isn't gonna happen! Lol! The EE brackets and the bump steer stuff could be done though as a group buy I'd say.