Stripping and cleaning read brakes...
- Thread starter OiNK
- Start date
Can't even get the inside pad out, scared of breaking it now and having none to replace it so I think I will put it back together.
What do you mean by the caliper piston? I literally have never done this before, was just following the guide @ http://www.clio197.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1237
What do you mean by the caliper piston? I literally have never done this before, was just following the guide @ http://www.clio197.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1237
becareful here if you dont know what your doing....
new pads require the handbrake piston to be wind back
if not sure get a garage to do the job...
dont put copperslip on the mating face of the disc! just put it round the centre spogot of the disc - keep disc face clean to maintain a square wheel to hub contact
new pads require the handbrake piston to be wind back
if not sure get a garage to do the job...
dont put copperslip on the mating face of the disc! just put it round the centre spogot of the disc - keep disc face clean to maintain a square wheel to hub contact
Discs dead too do you think? I reckon these may well be the original pads and discs from new, the car is 3 in august with 19k on her.
discs look fine - see my previous comment!
Disc looks good to me.
Those pads aren't as bad as what I removed from mine recently!
Sept 2011 car with 17k and the rear pads literally crumbled away from the backing plate and they needed chiselling out. Fronts were just as bad too.
Paint on the rear calipers was also bubbling in places which is pretty poor for a 2011 car IMO
Car drives 10x bette now the rear brakes aren't trailing and the pedal actually works and feels as it should!
I will be servicing/cleaning my brakes every few months as they're very easy to clog up.
Those pads aren't as bad as what I removed from mine recently!
Sept 2011 car with 17k and the rear pads literally crumbled away from the backing plate and they needed chiselling out. Fronts were just as bad too.
Paint on the rear calipers was also bubbling in places which is pretty poor for a 2011 car IMO
Car drives 10x bette now the rear brakes aren't trailing and the pedal actually works and feels as it should!
I will be servicing/cleaning my brakes every few months as they're very easy to clog up.
You can get a winder tool from machine mart for about a tenner for the caliper
If you got that far yourself there no reason you can't do the job yourself.
Just clean the prisons wind them in, lube the handbrake leer with some gt85 or something, wind the piston out with th handbrake lever(on the caliper) and repeat and that should free the piston off nicely
I got ferodo premier rear pads from camskill i thinK
GSF had a sale on brakes they might still have 25% off so worth a look
If you got that far yourself there no reason you can't do the job yourself.
Just clean the prisons wind them in, lube the handbrake leer with some gt85 or something, wind the piston out with th handbrake lever(on the caliper) and repeat and that should free the piston off nicely
I got ferodo premier rear pads from camskill i thinK
GSF had a sale on brakes they might still have 25% off so worth a look
Just curious, why does the piston need wound back? I am new to this and trying to teach myself. From a very basic viewpoint, would you not simply be taking the caliper off, pulling the old pads out, sliding the new ones in and bolting the caliper back on?
Why is changing the pads any different to removing them to clean them and put them back in?
Thanks
Why is changing the pads any different to removing them to clean them and put them back in?
Thanks
the pads braking material wears away over time along with the discs - the caliper piston compensates for this wear if it didnt the handbrake wouldnt work correctly...
so if you fit new pads they are thicker than old/worn ones and wouldnt fit
inky: 
