None atm. It's still sitting the way I had it in the previous picture with the pipe just sitting there after removing the valve. I will measure it after work and try source some pipe
Our Intake
- Thread starter ScoobyWhite
- Start date
None atm. It's still sitting the way I had it in the previous picture with the pipe just sitting there after removing the valve. I will measure it after work and try source some pipe
I had a trackday tonight had tried removing the airbox silencer valve.
Don't know if it was that or the toyosport/oreca but I had a massive flatspot - it seemed to lack power further down the rev range and was sluggish to pick up.
I have put the airbox silencer back on when I got back home tonight. I think it must help at lower revs.
Don't know if it was that or the toyosport/oreca but I had a massive flatspot - it seemed to lack power further down the rev range and was sluggish to pick up.
I have put the airbox silencer back on when I got back home tonight. I think it must help at lower revs.
Not really heard of that before after removal of the acoustic valve. But clearly a possibility !
I removed mine, fitted avpanel filter and extended the air-feed pipe down behind the headlight just prior to re-mapping.
Can't say I noticed anything negative in the short while I ran that set-up prior to mapping though....
I've run mine the way it was in my previous picture for a week now and haven't noticed any negatives at all.
If anything it feel its more responsive (could well be a placebo though!).
Haven't had any flat spots or chugging at low revs/speed or high revs.
And as stated before sounds much much better while driving
Are you running with no cats at all? If so, that's the issue and it'll definitely need a remap to sort it out.If you guys haven't had any problems then it must be the Toyosport/Oreca combination. Will need mapping.
Decatting without a map creates a massive lean spot on load. Mad not to map it
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Quick update. I measured the diameter of the Hose that i have left exposed. Stupidly i measured it as if we were to put a hose INSIDE the hole. i will measure as if we were to put one OVER it later.
Anyway to put a hose inside it would be 65mm (thats 6.5cm for us young folk
). To put a hose over it will obviously be only mm or 2 based on the thickness of the existing plastic hose.Still to source a hose of that diameter though
Quick update. I measured the diameter of the Hose that i have left exposed. Stupidly i measured it as if we were to put a hose INSIDE the hole. i will measure as if we were to put one OVER it later.
Anyway to put a hose inside it would be 65mm (thats 6.5cm for us young folk
Still to source a hose of that diameter though
So thats the internal size of the rubber hose that joins on to the acoustic valve? I have thought as a solution to remove the acoustic valve completely and get a small aluminum joiner onto that hose. Then something like some ducting on the aluminum joiner to go down to the space underneath the headlight. Basic ducting can be got from companies like Ramair and Auto Silicone Hoses on eBay in a variety of sizes. I *think* this is what Sevenfourate wants to do.
Yes its the internal measurement of the highlighted section below. In hope that i run a hose from the inside of the highlighted part and down under the headlight area.
right on the end of my highlighted part a few posts back?
Interesting idea though i've no idea about air intake as you all know lol. Will follow with interest in case any genious can tell us if its a good or terrible idea
I just want to not have a gaping big hole there, looks tragic
Yes mate, it was in fact your post that made me think about it! Can't see a gain performance wise but possibly noise wise?right on the end of my highlighted part a few posts back?
Interesting idea though i've no idea about air intake as you all know lol. Will follow with interest in case any genious can tell us if its a good or terrible idea
I just want to not have a gaping big hole there, looks tragic
Its just adding a small restriction. In the real world it wont make a difference to performance but could add some sound.
Didn't realise you were still at this @Roshi69 ??? !!! I pictured mine weeks ago on post 132 - and of you search my build thread i'd be pretty sure parts / sizes are likely to have been listed.
@Doogle I bought and fitted the parts, and had it mapped to suit over a year ago. I'm confused by your post above ?
In order of parts used - from the existing rubber elbow that's left after acoustic valve removal downwards are:
The Aluminium coupler that fits internally is here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stoney-Ra...hash=item280a6aada7:m:mrG_8a4qDQL4bNxwImpj3Pg
The Silicone extrnal coupler is here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone-...hash=item567f75adf1:m:mwXRDV5kE4h-n5fXMiNZgng
45 or 90 degree elbows: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stoney-Ra...hash=item280a6aada7:m:mrG_8a4qDQL4bNxwImpj3Pg
Stainless steel jubilee clips: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K-N-FILTE...hash=item3d1f0e7f27:m:mPQR09suYNMyTRYqxvEo-Qw
****Unfortunately my ebay purchase history shows these parts as bought. But won't now show me the sizes of each part in terms of OD or ID as all have multiple options available.
Goes without saying OD of the first Aluminum coupler needs to be JUST less / same as the ID of the rubber elbow on the car.
Then the ID of the Silicone coupler needs to be FRACTIONALLY bigger / same than the OD of the aluminium coupler.
Jubilee clips will have a range of sizes it will work in - and that will cover all of the above connections.
Its tight for space the lower you go. I had to do a bit of cutting / shutting / creative work down there from memory. But you could do that, or feed a cold air feed pipe upwards as Doogle said. Or use a reducer to step down pipe size slightly - in order to buy yourself some space.......
****IF you measure the ID of the rubber elbow on the car Yoshi you should just then be able to work down toward the space behind the headlight from there using the parts listed above.
Cant be that hard. I managed it
Didn't realise you were still at this @Roshi69 ??? !!! I pictured mine weeks ago on post 132 - and of you search my build thread i'd be pretty sure parts / sizes are likely to have been listed.
@Doogle I bought and fitted the parts, and had it mapped to suit over a year ago. I'm confused by your post above ?
In order of parts used - from the existing rubber elbow that's left after acoustic valve removal downwards are:
The Aluminium coupler that fits internally is here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stoney-Ra...hash=item280a6aada7:m:mrG_8a4qDQL4bNxwImpj3Pg
The Silicone extrnal coupler is here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone-...hash=item567f75adf1:m:mwXRDV5kE4h-n5fXMiNZgng
45 or 90 degree elbows: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stoney-Ra...hash=item280a6aada7:m:mrG_8a4qDQL4bNxwImpj3Pg
Stainless steel jubilee clips: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K-N-FILTE...hash=item3d1f0e7f27:m:mPQR09suYNMyTRYqxvEo-Qw
****Unfortunately my ebay purchase history shows these parts as bought. But won't now show me the sizes of each part in terms of OD or ID as all have multiple options available.
Goes without saying OD of the first Aluminum coupler needs to be JUST less / same as the ID of the rubber elbow on the car.
Then the ID of the Silicone coupler needs to be FRACTIONALLY bigger / same than the OD of the aluminium coupler.
Jubilee clips will have a range of sizes it will work in - and that will cover all of the above connections.
Its tight for space the lower you go. I had to do a bit of cutting / shutting / creative work down there from memory. But you could do that, or feed a cold air feed pipe upwards as Doogle said. Or use a reducer to step down pipe size slightly - in order to buy yourself some space.......
****IF you measure the ID of the rubber elbow on the car Yoshi you should just then be able to work down toward the space behind the headlight from there using the parts listed above.
Cant be that hard. I managed it
I'm definitely just in a permanent state of confusion at the moment!
Looks awesome, how far down does it run? I noticed on that side of the grill there is an open area that just goes towards the wheel/underneath the headlight so the plan is to have the ducting going down to there. Until I have some time I wont have time to figure out how to secure it but shouldnt be that hard. Wont look as fancy as yours Sevenfourate but should do a similar thing.
Yea with general shite weather here I hadn't had much chance to look at it but going a fair run on Saturday and would like it done before going lol. Cheers for the links
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Well you're cutting it fine in getting a delivery via ebay for the weekend now !
If you let us / me know the ID of the rubber elbow left on your car - i can help you work through sizes of parts needed if you want........
Quick update. Managed to get something to do me for now and am quite surprised at how good a fit it is!
Reverse angle
The cut off lip that sits perfectly at the edge of the box
This was the make shift part getting cleaned
Here's a few pics of the actual part in case anyone was interested. I got it from a local Renault breakers but don't know why car it's from. I've took a picture of the details on the pipe to maybe help someone
Reverse angle
The cut off lip that sits perfectly at the edge of the box
This was the make shift part getting cleaned
Here's a few pics of the actual part in case anyone was interested. I got it from a local Renault breakers but don't know why car it's from. I've took a picture of the details on the pipe to maybe help someone
That actually looks spot on! I have removed the Acoustic valve and rusty bracket (it was very rusty) and attached the solenoid to the box underneath, which appears electrical. I have been looking at options but that seems like a good choice, and looks stock. Thats far enough in front to get some more cold air. Short of sticking something flexible in the gap there isnt exactly much space between that black box underneath and the back of the headlight.
