My LY 200

[petercronin]

Whilst at it I noticed a bit of play in the drivers side track rod end so decided to replace them. Which has been a non stop battle. The drivers side came off no problem but the passenger side but came about half way off and then it was just spinning the ball joint no matter which way I turned it. I tried and tried to stop it spinning but I couldn’t so I eventually opted to carefully drill it, thankfully that worked!


The next part of the battle was to get the bushes off them, this time the passenger side was no problem but with the limited tools I have at home I couldn’t get the drivers side off. Hobs don’t get things quite hot enough [emoji23]

So new bushes ordered from Rentune, top service as usual. And after more than a 2 week wait the replacement trw rod ends arrived from eurocarparts that were supposedly in stock of next day delivery!! Glad I wasn’t in a hurry. Still got those to fit but at least I’ve got the bits.

Last job for now was to change the gearbox oil, can’t remember when I last did it, 2 years maybe. I fitted a magnetic sump plug a while ago and it’s been collecting a fair bit of fuzz since the oil was last done. And refilled with Redline MTL. Haven’t driven it but from cold it’s miles better to get into gear.

 

[lewishunter98]

Fair few little maintenance jobs ticked off there! Good job. I find that mole grips usually do the trick on spinning ball joints if you're replacing them anyway and don't mind damaging the boot! Just clamp it down real tight and the nut comes straight off!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

 

[petercronin]

Fair few little maintenance jobs ticked off there! Good job. I find that mole grips usually do the trick on spinning ball joints if you're replacing them anyway and don't mind damaging the boot! Just clamp it down real tight and the nut comes straight off!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

That was the first thing I’d tried, cut the boot off but couldn’t get the set of grips in well enough to hold it.

 

[turkie172]

If you put another jack under the track rod end and be carful not to damage the back of the track rod ball joint it pushes the taper up tighter and stops it spinning when taking the nut off and on.

 

[petercronin]

If you put another jack under the track rod end and be carful not to damage the back of the track rod ball joint it pushes the taper up tighter and stops it spinning when taking the nut off and on.

I’d tried that too [emoji23], wasn’t having it! Currently debating doing a full front end refresh at the moment mainly for something to do.

 

[turkie172]

It looks like someone before hit the end of the track rod end thread must have been to remove it and flattened the end if you need to do such a thing people should fit the nut on using as many threads as possible then strike the nut as it will be easier replaced repaired than the external thread that might have been the problem getting the nuts past the shoulder at the end. Good work anyway

 

[Jack Maxwell]

Damn. Did my TREs today, think it took me about 15mins per side. Feel sorry for you

 

[mike harper]

Thanks for this build thread. Really interesting - just bought my own LY200 which is going to be a track project.

 

[petercronin]

Thanks for this build thread. Really interesting - just bought my own LY200 which is going to be a track project.

You’re welcome, I started it as partly to keep track of how it’s changed over the years but glad people are finding it useful. Just seen your post, welcome along and congrats on choosing the best colour [emoji6]

 

[petercronin]

Well it’s time for an overdue coming out of lockdown update. The car is still sat on axle stands but almost back together now. Since the last update I’ve decided to strip the front end down and refresh things when the car wasn’t being used, this has sort of spiralled a bit. Original plan was to do the ball joints, so got some from Rene and got them done.

After this I decided it would be a shame not to replace the wishbone bushes, so Powerflex ones went in.

I then got thinking expensively and resisted right up until until k-tec sent out a 10% off voucher and then....

Also got some new Superpro drop links and anti rotation links to keep up with the refreshing theme. And a new 6 line kit from HEL as I fancied some shiny lines. Had a bit of a struggle with the rear axle long lines, couldn’t get them to fit without rubbing so HEL made me a custom line with a 45 degree end rather than the straight end they usually come with. They’re fitted with new RBF600.

I’ve been waiting to put it back together as I’ve been trying to get a solid subframe from Rentune but they’re snowed under with work so it’s all going back together now until they have one. As it stands now everything is fitted just need torqued up before it comes off the stands and aligned.

I’ve also started making a new rad support which I’m hoping to be able to keep using with the oem engine undertray, I’ll update this once it’s done.

 

[lewishunter98]

Nice!! Jealous of the AST's! [emoji7]

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

 

[Dan-]

Very nice AST's What spring rates did you go with?

 

[mike harper]

Yes very jealous of the AST's too!

What would you say is the Best mod you’ve made?

Mine is very similar spec to yours with the cup and h&r - feels like they are out of sync with one another so tempted to go bilsteins. Just don’t want to lose the oversteery nature of the car if it runs coilovers.

 

[PITA]

Maybe HEL changed their kit recently as mine came with bent ends.

 

[petercronin]

Thanks guys, can’t wait to try them properly. The springs are road biased 60/40nm. The car is back on the floor now - first time since March! Had a little issue with the coilovers, I didn’t realise the drop link collars were handed so the wheels were catching on them when you turned them - glad I checked clearances before driving, so stripped it all down again to swap them side to side [emoji2959]

I went and bought a battery charger the other day expecting it not to start, well it fired up no problem [emoji50]. Money well spent on the charger ha!

Best mod I’ve done Mike would probably be getting rid of the H&R springs it was originally on. They weren’t a huge improvement over oem springs in terms of ability and they ride terribly. The B14’s I changed them for improved the ride and composure a lot. Don’t worry about losing the oversteer nature either, you don’t. This is probably closely followed by the exhaust, quiet when you want it to be and sounds great when you want a bit of noise.

Might need to raise the front a bit could only just get the jack out....

 

[petercronin]

Maybe HEL changed their kit recently as mine came with bent ends. View attachment 140849

Strange for them to change it. I would have said it might have been a mistake but I know someone else who’s got them recently and his were straight ends too. There was also someone else on a Facebook group who had the same issue not long after I did.

 

[mike harper]

Thanks guys, can’t wait to try them properly. The springs are road biased 60/40nm. The car is back on the floor now - first time since March! Had a little issue with the coilovers, I didn’t realise the drop link collars were handed so the wheels were catching on them when you turned them - glad I checked clearances before driving, so stripped it all down again to swap them side to side [emoji2959]

I went and bought a battery charger the other day expecting it not to start, well it fired up no problem [emoji50]. Money well spent on the charger ha!

Best mod I’ve done Mike would probably be getting rid of the H&R springs it was originally on. They weren’t a huge improvement over oem springs in terms of ability and they ride terribly. The B14’s I changed them for improved the ride and composure a lot. Don’t worry about losing the oversteer nature either, you don’t. This is probably closely followed by the exhaust, quiet when you want it to be and sounds great when you want a bit of noise.

Might need to raise the front a bit could only just get the jack out....

Thanks for the reply

What did you think of the super pro drop links?

I think suspension will be the first thing I do (tell a lie I replaced the b pillars the other day and managed to balls that up!)

Agree Thoughthat the ride is appalling with the cup dampers and h&r - possibly my dampers are shot but the body control is terrible - any undulation the body takes an insane amount of time to settle.

I’ve just taken off the spacers the car came with as well so looking forward to seeing if that’s reduced some of the disconnect on turn in.

Have you thought about forced induction? I’m currently eyeing up a supercharger

 

[petercronin]

Thanks for the reply

What did you think of the super pro drop links?

I think suspension will be the first thing I do (tell a lie I replaced the b pillars the other day and managed to balls that up!)

Agree Thoughthat the ride is appalling with the cup dampers and h&r - possibly my dampers are shot but the body control is terrible - any undulation the body takes an insane amount of time to settle.

I’ve just taken off the spacers the car came with as well so looking forward to seeing if that’s reduced some of the disconnect on turn in.

Have you thought about forced induction? I’m currently eyeing up a supercharger

When I first fitted them (and set them correctly) it did improve the ride a bit and turn in was sharper. I was on cup dampers and h&r springs at the time. I’d recommend them especially if your drop links are in need of replacement anyway. Refreshing with out things will make a huge difference and won’t cost a huge amount if you’re looking at the suspension side of things.

It does sound a bit like your dampers are worn.

I’m quite happy keeping it n/a to be honest, definitely don’t want to meg swap it. If I was going to I’d go the supercharger route, but there doesn’t seem to have been that many people do it. I think ktec sell a full kit if you’re interested.

 

[petercronin]

Well the car is fully back together for the first time since March and I’m well impressed with the AST’s definitely a big step up on b14’s. They cope so well with bumps, you can tell you’ve hit them but the car isn’t disturbed as much as it was with b14s. Raised the fronts a bit too as it was too low. Need to get alignment and corner weighting booked.

Also for those that are interested we now have powerflex bushes available for the rear dampers. I spoke with them and after a bit of measurement sending they realised the Clio mk2 bushes are the same as the mk3. So if anyone wants new rear bushes without buying a whole new damper, buy a mk2 bush. Only slight issue (but I don’t know if this was specific to the AST coilovers) is there isn’t enough thread engaged into the nylon part of top nut on the damper but some lower profile nyloc nuts will sort it.

And I’ve almost finished my little fabrication project. Rad support front section made out of box section ally with a few bolt holes and rivnuts for the undertray. Rear sections for holding the. Back of the engine undertray almost finished just need a bit of excess metal removed and some edges tidied up. Pretty simple job if you’ve got some basic tools. Here’s some pics if anyone fancies copying.

 

[lewishunter98]

Great find on the rear top mounts!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk