LY200 - too loud or blow up again, taking bets!

If I calculate the weight of the airbox with the filter and that notorious R3 rubber hose, weight saving might be somewhere between 4.5 and 5kg. Depending on if I decide to make an enclosed (cone) filter because of the heat underneath the bonnet.

But what most interests me are the bhp/car length gains (or losses :smiley:). :wink:

There'll be a couple of updates concerning weight saving followed with the pics.
Just waiting to do everything so I can put it all in one post.
 
Just shield the filter, I wouldn't worry to enclose it (not fully anyway) as the positioning of it will be what, headlight area?
You don't want to restrict the airflow it can ingest - you'll probably be best to do something similar to my plans around doing carbon heat shields with rubber top edging to seal against the bonnet.

Hope the OE airbox doesn't prove better for me, I'm loving the induction noise I have right now!!
 
Probably best not to plan until she runs well again lol.

Possibly whats on in June just a normal track day?

Nah FCS I mean is June time I think? Yep, just checked (June 6th/7th at Combe) - maybe see how it goes, however if my car comes up good we could do a normal day combe in May perhaps? Not been there for ages.
 
Nah FCS I mean is June time I think? Yep, just checked (June 6th/7th at Combe) - maybe see how it goes, however if my car comes up good we could do a normal day combe in May perhaps? Not been there for ages.
Yeah bud I'm doing a 15min and a 30 min session at FCS and show it off :wink:.
Sure why not, its cheaper than other tracks and the nearest.

P.s dont chase numbers on the filter if it sounds good, keep it :tongueout:
 
New wheels fitted, excuse the **** mobile pic and filthy car! I might clean it later this afternoon when it's not so hot out there.
IMAG0341-750x410.jpg

Disc's are looking better now the pads have cleaned up the face of the rotor leaving the j-hook paint nice and crisp inside the groves only.

Clearly the Renault black caps are not going to be to glossy, so I'll stump up the £60 for the caps of eBay. Also will order some black TPI bolts from Cazan. - Will make the wheels look better for sure.
IMAG0342-750x410.jpg

Also, got a stack of track tyres now!
4 x AD08R (215/45/17), 2 lots of tread, 2 on the legal limit
4 x Federal 595 RSR (225/45/17) all ~3mm
IMAG0348-223x300.jpg



Does anyone know what this plug is too? Found hanging under the car. The car was on post lift yesterday, must have been dislodged I guess?
IMAG0346-750x410.jpg
IMAG0347-750x410.jpg
 
Yeah not sure if I'll get the r.s or normal Renault badge. Probably go for Renault badge, if I had a later 200 with the r.s front badge I would be more swayed to make the wheels match.

I graunched some of the inside of the front right wheel putting it on, annoying! I touched it up and the brakes are so damn big you can't see it anyway! My slack cleaning regime means they'll be covered in dust before long anyway!
 
that's more than likely one of the chassis cover caps - stops crap getting in to the box sections underneath
 
How much?

Assuming it makes a nice figure at RST and everything is all good, how much do people think the car would be worth?


  • LY Clio 200 with Cup Chassis
  • 2009 (59)
  • 32.5k miles
  • 2 owners (including me)
  • Full Service history and then following in the last 6 months....

I have receipts for it all and recorded mileage etc for when bits were fitted.

Engine:
  • Catcam ‘403’ cams
  • Catcam valve springs
  • Arrow steel rods
  • ARP rod bolts
  • King Racing big end bearings
  • King Racing main bearings
  • Supertech forged pistons (12.5:1)
  • Supertech forged stainless inlet valves
  • Supertech Iconel exhaust valves
  • Aros R3 exhaust manifold
  • Decat/Miltek/HJS 200cpsi Cat – interchangeable
  • Supersprint racing centre section (Torque Technique mid silencer added)
  • Supersprint racing rear silencer
  • Ported inlet manifold (Pure Motorsport)
  • V6 inlet pipe and Green K4.80V cone filter
  • Odyssey PC950 battery
  • TTV 4.4Kg Steel flywheel
  • Millers CFS Nanodrive 5w-40 oil
  • SPA oil temp sender and oil pressure sender – remote mounted on Aeroquip fittings and hose
Brakes:

  • Motul RBF600 fluid
  • Reyland 330mm 2-piece front discs
  • Yellowstuff front pads
  • Mtec black coated grooved rear discs
  • Mintex rear pads
Suspension:

  • Standard 200 Cup
Interior:

  • SPA dual oil temp/pressure gauge
Exterior:

  • 200 Cup wheels (Satin Black) w/ ContiSport’s for road
  • 200 Cup wheels (Standard Grey) w/ Yoko AD08R’s for track
 
Assuming it makes a nice figure at RST and everything is all good, how much do people think the car would be worth?


  • LY Clio 200 with Cup Chassis
  • 2009 (59)
  • 32.5k miles
  • 2 owners (including me)
  • Full Service history and then following in the last 6 months....

I have receipts for it all and recorded mileage etc for when bits were fitted.

Engine:
  • Catcam ‘403’ cams
  • Catcam valve springs
  • Arrow steel rods
  • ARP rod bolts
  • King Racing big end bearings
  • King Racing main bearings
  • Supertech forged pistons (12.5:1)
  • Supertech forged stainless inlet valves
  • Supertech Iconel exhaust valves
  • Aros R3 exhaust manifold
  • Decat/Miltek/HJS 200cpsi Cat – interchangeable
  • Supersprint racing centre section (Torque Technique mid silencer added)
  • Supersprint racing rear silencer
  • Ported inlet manifold (Pure Motorsport)
  • V6 inlet pipe and Green K4.80V cone filter
  • Odyssey PC950 battery
  • TTV 4.4Kg Steel flywheel
  • Millers CFS Nanodrive 5w-40 oil
  • SPA oil temp sender and oil pressure sender – remote mounted on Aeroquip fittings and hose
Brakes:

  • Motul RBF600 fluid
  • Reyland 330mm 2-piece front discs
  • Yellowstuff front pads
  • Mtec black coated grooved rear discs
  • Mintex rear pads
Suspension:

  • Standard 200 Cup
Interior:

  • SPA dual oil temp/pressure gauge
Exterior:

  • 200 Cup wheels (Satin Black) w/ ContiSport’s for road
  • 200 Cup wheels (Standard Grey) w/ Yoko AD08R’s for track

At least keep it first... think of how much money you're going to lose selling it now.
 
Depends on how quickly you'd like to sell Rich. Well a LY200, slightly newer than yours and similar mileage but with Recaros is advertised for around £11k which I believe it's a bit overpriced (k-tec tax etc). An '11 plate storm grey with 40k miles is at £9,800 which is more realistic. Now yours...I'm sure you know you are not getting your money back but I personally believe - and judging by how the market is at the moment - you would be struggling to sell more than £12,5k if that.

It all depends on the buyer though and as I mentioned how quickly you want to sell. If you can afford waiting and If you find the right buyer I'm sure they would be willing to pay top dollar assuming the car runs healthy figures to support the expensive hardware and hence the premium.
 
Depends on how quickly you'd like to sell Rich. Well a LY200, slightly newer than yours and similar mileage but with Recaros is advertised for around £11k which I believe it's a bit overpriced (k-tec tax etc). An '11 plate storm grey with 40k miles is at £9,800 which is more realistic. Now yours...I'm sure you know you are not getting your money back but I personally believe - and judging by how the market is at the moment - you would be struggling to sell more than £12,5k if that.

It all depends on the buyer though and as I mentioned how quickly you want to sell. If you can afford waiting and If you find the right buyer I'm sure they would be willing to pay top dollar assuming the car runs healthy figures to support the expensive hardware and hence the premium.

Agree. Tbh the prices of these cars are dropping like a stone. I'd say you might see £11k. The problem is people love a good project car but generally wouldn't buy one. The irony is I have a heavy modded car, but I wouldn't buy one either???
 
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Hmm sounds like these cars haven't dropped much then over the last year, makes an E92/Mustang a no brainer for me if I could get 10k back out the car really.

Regarding mods, you do get some (bugger all granted) back when you have spent like I have on an engine, been there and done it before. It's very true more basic mods don't get you anything - infact you just end up reducing your target auidiance because as mentioned most don't want a 'project' car. However a fully forged engine and some bigger brakes doesn't constitute a project, still allows someone to go wheels, suspension, interior etc. The expensive PIA bit is just done and no doubting the quality of the items in it....and hopefully on Wed's it'll be at long bloody last making proper power. - And if it doesn't, oh how I'd love to just drive it through Engine Dynamics front windows and walk away - like a boss!! :smiley:
 
Well back from a long ass few days 'up north' where I left the car with RST.

When it was first run up it made 193bhp. This is 8bhp more than the last run at SRR where it made 185bhp. so the v6/green cone setup has restored the missing induction power (the ITG dyno'd with 8bhp@wheels less on Engine Dynamics rollers vs a similar ish setup to what I have created).
However between the 195bhp and then 185bhp runs at SRR - I of course had the centre silencer (and decat) added. So this makes me wonder if a new exhaust might might liberate a few more ponies, after all that 10bhp went somewhere! So I haven't ruled out an Akrapovic in the next few months.

Anyway, next step was timing. So RST removed the cam cover etc to measure, turns out my 403's are basically indexed perfectly by Catcams. I.e once setup with a dial gauge the standard Renault timing horseshoe fits the horizontal groves. Good to know, almost 'wasted' labour - but I was at the point where it had to be known if they were correct or not.

So then onto mapping...........215bhp. A good result for sure, though personally I am still a bit disappointed as I was really hoping to crack 220bhp. But it's the highest NA car I've seen results for on RST's roller so at least that is something. Paul thought it was a great result and my expectations are nuts (and I should buy a Honda if I'm hell bent on chasing NA numbers on the dyno!) :lol:

And as for how it goes...........like ****ing stink!!! :thumbup:

--
I've been thinking about the R3 manifold, I have a feeling it's only helping the midrange and possibly at the expense of the top end (on mild cams). The primaries are much longer which is good for torque, whereas short primaries are better for top end. I know the R3 cams are quite a bit more wild than the 403's, so I think R.S use this long branch manifold to help the midrange on wild R3 cams. - On the short primaries OEM manifold I bet the midrange was pretty dire.
I have a hunch that the Ktec manifold would actually gain me a bit of top end power, but likely end up losing me some midrange.
-I can't afford to test this theory though because the manifold is so hard to change. But as a lesson to others......don't buy this R3 manifold, buy the Ktec IMO.

Another couple of interesting things, firstly the 403's are right on the limit of what the OEM ECU can handle, Paul had a nightmare mapping it (apparently it was easier to map a supercharged Clio on the stock ECU than mine was!). Something about too much overlap and the ECU is constantly trying to either pull or add fuel because of the lambda readings - or something like that. So another bit of advice...........stick with 402's unless you have a standalone.
Second thing is high comp pistons on these engines do nothing for top end power (heard that now from 3 places since buying them, including the place that sold them! grrr). Basically even on 99ron fuel, the high compression ratio is just making the engine run too close on the knock limits, so you can't get the same level of ignition advance which completely defeats the benefit of the higher compression (at the top end at least). They do help with the midrange torque and is probably why the car feels so strong on the road.

So no knee jerk sell the car antics now, it sounds insane, goes bloody well - and should be bullet proof. However I'll def be eyeing up a Mustang in 6months when they're out!

In the mean time I now need to try and fix this annoying ticking noise since fitting the 330mm discs!!! First I think I'll bash in some cheap **** pads to see if it goes, second I'll try OEM pins instead of the Mr Pink/R-clip ones I have. Failing thse 2 things, I'll have see what Cazan/Reyland can do regarding the rotors - because I've spoken to a couple of people with J-hooks and they don't have an issue.
 

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