GW 197 track build

[cliokam]

Looking great, often wish i had gone down the full weld in Clio Cup copy route with my cage.

what makes you say that? the only reason I went with full weld in is because r019 cost +fitting is high and the weight of it is crazy. pros and cons though, if you ever want to re-shell you can buy new feet and salvage the cage whereas if have to start from scratch

 

[Sideshowfred]

what makes you say that? the only reason I went with full weld in is because r019 cost +fitting is high and the weight of it is crazy. pros and cons though, if you ever want to re-shell you can buy new feet and salvage the cage whereas if have to start from scratch

Your cage looks so much neater that's all! I agree on the re-shell front though, it certainly would make it easier as long as the cage isn't damaged.

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[cliokam]

Your cage looks so much neater that's all! I agree on the re-shell front though, it certainly would make it easier as long as the cage isn't damaged.

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Ah okay makes sense, there’s a lot going on with the r019 but it’s as good as a clio cage will get really, very nearly went down the r019 route, car looks awesome btw, love the air Asia sunstrip as well, always wanted one on mine but thought it would be too much on a white car.

 

[Sideshowfred]

Ah okay makes sense, there’s a lot going on with the r019 but it’s as good as a clio cage will get really, very nearly went down the r019 route, car looks awesome btw, love the air Asia sunstrip as well, always wanted one on mine but thought it would be too much on a white car.

Thanks, I would say go for it but I quite like being the only one out there with one! Looking forward to seeing what else you do with yours from this point on.

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[cliokam]

A little progress made, cut some vinyl to protect the door bars, chassis loom tidied up/mounted using p clips.




Cant remember if I’ve mentioned my footplate I had made at the same time as the cage, it’s not mounted properly yet and I was originally going to put grip tape on it but I don’t want to wear out my shoes . Thinking I’ll just put black vinyl on it but we’ll see


Also have a cup racer cambelt protection plate, 182 pulley and stretch belt setup here, has anyone else ran this setup other than josh? Be interested to know how people are getting on with it.


I’ll likely order a motorsport/lightweight heater/demister this week as well then we’ll see how I go about plumbing and wiring that in.

 

[rSilva]

I would have had the footrest dimples made on the opposite direction if ruining the shoes is an issue for you

 

[cliokam]

I would have had the footrest dimples made on the opposite direction if ruining the shoes is an issue for you

You’re probably right

 

[Sideshowfred]

Have you wired in the electrical cut off switch yet? If so any chance you could tell me how it's been done as it's one of the next jobs on my list but don't even know where to start with wiring it up properly.

 

[cliokam]

Have you wired in the electrical cut off switch yet? If so any chance you could tell me how it's been done as it's one of the next jobs on my list but don't even know where to start with wiring it up properly.

Isnyours a cup?

 

[Sideshowfred]

Isnyours a cup?

No, mines a full fat so keyless start whereas I know yours is a cup. But I can't imagine the wiring is so vastly different as there has to be an ignition wire somewhere.

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[cliokam]

No, mines a full fat so keyless start whereas I know yours is a cup. But I can't imagine the wiring is so vastly different as there has to be an ignition wire somewhere.

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Haha it’s completely different, I can kill my car with the ignition wires inside the car, I think you will have to take the ecu/ignition power into the car from the engine bay and to the switch. there’s a wire on the fuse box that’s sits above the left wheel which would be perfect for it but can’t remember which one it is of the top of my head.

As for the actual wiring into the kill switch you’ve got 2 circuits, they alternate between open and closed depending on kill switch position. Yoi want ignition circuit (call it 1), on when switch is on, the other circuit (call it 2) will be open, and when you flick the switch off the circuit 1 will open and circuit 2will close. circuit 2 will ground your alternator side of the wiring through a resistor.

Send me a dm if you do get stuck and I’ll try and help you

 

[cliokam]

T7 designs heater turned up this week so started plumbing that in today.

Wanted to use the original hole into the car so got the grinder out and made these little plates to blank the hole and allow the hoses through. The oem heater hose is 20mm id, the fittings on the heater are 13mm id so I used the t7 designs adapters to step down in size as it passes through the fire wall.





With that riveted in place, I mounted the heater where I thought it would work best using rivnuts and rubber stand off washers. The fire wall is an awkward shape somjad to use different thicknesses in each corner, at the moment it’s only held in place by the top 2 bolts while I wait for longer ones. I used to pull the heater away from the firewall slightly and to try and reduce the angles on the pipes




Haven’t had a chance to try it out yet, only left the car idling for 15 minutes to bleed and check for leaks.

All in it’s not a perfect and could probably be done a better but it seems to be working

I’m waiting for ducting and I still need to wire it up, not sure how I’ll wire it, likely be either an on/off toggle, a potentiometer so I can control fan speed or a spdt toggle with resistors or something so I can have hi/low.

 

[DrewHughes]

looks good now mate!

How are u finding the heater? Been thinking of getting rid of mine

 

[cliokam]

looks good now mate!

How are u finding the heater? Been thinking of getting rid of mine

Thanks mate.

It has surprised me actually, the air it kicks out is hotter then I thought it would be, more than good enough for de-misting the windows. With all the good weather we’ve had it’s hard to say wether it would properly warm up the car in the winter but I think it should be enough to make it comfortable in there. It is pretty loud though so that’s something to bare in mind

 

[cliokam]

Small update. Finished up the heater with some long studs on the bottom, redone a bit of wiring behind the dash. Not many pics as I was rushing to make it out in track but here’s a before and after



Didn’t get anything else I had planned done, work has been busy and weather too nice to be rolling around on my driveway.

Finally got to stretch its legs at Bedford in Tuesday though. No video as i forgot to order a mount.

Overall my takeaway from Bedford, the handling is off, it’s understeery and the rear feels too planted which needs addressing, but it really does but love to 3 wheel now with the cage and its still an awesomely capable car. I think a suspension rebuild and some more toe out on the rear should improve things.








Ahh.. and one from the worst part of any track day.. switching back to road tyres when you’re tired and just want to go home.

 

[Big Ben]

Amen on the last bit!

Car looks great.

 

[Russell]

Love it mate!

 

[Sideshowfred]

Looks so at home on track. Would look more cup racer using the white wheels for track use though!

 

[Dan-]

Hubs drilled out to accept cup racer bump steer/roll centre kit.
View attachment 132734

Hi Kam, whats involved with the cup racer bump steer/roll centre kit? also whats the cost and where can the bits be sourced from?

 

[cliokam]

Hi Kam, whats involved with the cup racer bump steer/roll centre kit? also whats the cost and where can the bits be sourced from?

Probably get them from jade developments, I’ve only got the bump steer part fitted, it’s a hat which sits on the tre, you have to drill the hub out slightly to make it fit and there’s a spacer which sits under the steering rack as well. I’m not convinced it’s a good idea without the rest of the roll centre correction from a cup car though. Probably going to remove it until I can afford full cup racer front end.

Full setup is ee brackets, subframe support bars, tie rods, anti rotation links and driveshafts.. all of which is pricey