Car wont start... help! :(

I have read the other threads but nobody else seemed to have a flat battery...

Used a booster and it all lit up again but then wouldn't start and is giving all sorts of errors such as steering lock and ABS.

When you press the start button it just makes the normal clicking noise but then nothing

When i disconnected the battery there was a constant clicking from near the battery compartment

Did anybody confirm some part numbers for the starter motor!
 
try giving the steering wheel a good pull, and i mean a good pull. has sometimes they can jamm on and give the same warning message.
 
it might just be a very discharged battery - they dont always jump start when like that

get a tester/volt meter on it to see what volts are in it
 
a discharged battery will still read 12v, as its the current that drops in the battery, low voltage will be knackard cells.
 
voltage goes up and start up due to the fact the alternator is charging it, which is slighly higher voltage
 
voltage goes up and start up due to the fact the alternator is charging it, which is slighly higher voltage

when its cranking it doesnt as the starter is pulling power out of it

done plenty of non-starts where the battery is that bad it wouldnt jump start either
 
I have read the other threads but nobody else seemed to have a flat battery...

Used a booster and it all lit up again but then wouldn't start and is giving all sorts of errors such as steering lock and ABS.

When you press the start button it just makes the normal clicking noise but then nothing

When i disconnected the battery there was a constant clicking from near the battery compartment

Did anybody confirm some part numbers for the starter motor!

make sure you have a really good connection on the jump leads/slave battery or if you can swap the battery for a known good one
 
Battery should read 12V+ when off, around 7-8V when cranking and 14V when running, if that helps to clear anything up. my initial thought would be to check your earth connections.
 
i wasnt saying that the batteries voltage doesnt go up and down, i was saying when people put a volt meter across a battery (open circuit/no load) and say its got 12v its ok, you get 12v on a battery thats been discharged as its the current that discharges not the voltage, its current you need to power the systems
 
i wasnt saying that the batteries voltage doesnt go up and down, i was saying when people put a volt meter across a battery (open circuit/no load) and say its got 12v its ok, you get 12v on a battery thats been discharged as its the current that discharges not the voltage, its current you need to power the systems

Yes voltage is not a determining factor to see if there is a current draw when the car is not running, first thing i would do is see if some tool has put amps or subs in as normally they wire it incorrectly, and hence you get a permanent live draw. then test with a multimeter for any current draw.

The clicking will be the starter relay, normally indicates battery doesn't have enough juice to crank. but in my experience if your using a good battery check the terminals are tight then its normally corroded earths or them not done up enough.

Have you bump started it yet? give that a crack then you will know its starter/electrical issue.
 
It wont even move though, or do anything, not a good place to be trying to diagnose it.

Will try again this morning and see what it does, my dad was saying that using a slave battery can upset the electronics on newer cars though? am i risking damaging something ?