197 Cup F4RT track car

[suj]

Depends what you call reasonable, they ain't cheap - £300 + !!

But then they last way longer than other pads and are generally friendlier on discs. I've not used them on the Clio, but I've had them on my track 200sx and track E36, lapping at Ring constantly with no fade and all other UK tracks.

I ummed and arred at first about them due to price, then finally bit the bullet and they just never fade or decrease in thickness, like some magic!

 

[L33 KUP]

Any ideas where sells them can’t see them on kam racing’s website




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[suj]

Any ideas where sells them can’t see them on kam racing’s website




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Speak to George @ RTR

https://www.roadtrackraceparts.com/

If it's not on the site, he should be able to get them for you.

 

[PAUL JA]

Any ideas where sells them can’t see them on kam racing’s website




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I think KTEC sell them

 

[L33 KUP]

So since we are currently on lockdown I thought I'd add some extra content. So first up is the wiring.

I had wanted to do the wiring loom myself but I had been struggling to find wiring diagrams and anyone who carries out the conversion was reluctant to say which wires went where (it’s their business/income) and most wanted to use an R26 loom which is very hard to get hold of since every loom tends to stay with the ECU or is sold as a package with the engine and ECU, understandable.
So with this struggle in mind with a little searching I found people asking similar questions and in the end someone on this forum recommended a mechanic possibly in this thread or a similar one, I can’t remember now it was that long ago, anyway he had done a few looms for people so the loom was sent off, around a week or so later loom was back.

My issues began when I saw some of the taping carried out just looked untidy and since it was all off I thought I'll just strip all tape off and re-tape the loom giving it a fresher look, luckily this was what I did as the soldering carried out on the loom was the worst I've ever seen. I was so glad I stripped it back now.

Heres some photos,

Even if all the soldering was not like the one with only two strands of copper covered the heat shrink was not fully sealing the joins allowing water or moisture to gain access and we all know how much water loves to ruin wiring. I've also attached some of my repairs after to show that it is possible so not sure why this was in such a bad state but I'm so glad I saw this.

So little recap post I guess. By the way I have no interest in bad mouthing the trader or Renault specialist just my findings if someone’s done your wiring just check it.


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[adam thomas]

thats some shocking wiring , well done with the repairs

 

[DS197]

God job on the wiring mate. Unfortunately I’ve also used specialists who you won’t find a bad word about online/in person who have messed up on more than one occasion.

Good on you for getting stuck in and sorting out the issues. Seems like the only way to know something has been done right is to do it yourself!

 

[L33 KUP]

God job on the wiring mate. Unfortunately I’ve also used specialists who you won’t find a bad word about online/in person who have messed up on more than one occasion.

Good on you for getting stuck in and sorting out the issues. Seems like the only way to know something has been done right is to do it yourself!

Yes mate exactly that, shame there isn’t more information out there regarding the megane engine swaps.

Maybe now this isn’t the case with them being more common but certainly a couple of years ago it seemed to be if they knew how to do it they kept it to themselves to force your hand into using them.

 

[L33 KUP]

Last weeks aim was to get the roll cage in however my welders regulator decided to leak so now I need to wait for a new one almost had a full week of work on it [emoji28]

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[Mark_L]

Yes mate exactly that, shame there isn’t more information out there regarding the megane engine swaps.

Maybe now this isn’t the case with them being more common but certainly a couple of years ago it seemed to be if they knew how to do it they kept it to themselves to force your hand into using them.

There is a guide for all the wiring on this forum. Not that you need it now. It is based on a ph2 loom and it doesn't keep the fan relay which is needed but it was good enough for me.

 

[Sean197]

Jesus that wiring loom is horrendous! Glad you got it solved before it bbq'd your car.
Love this car, it's the clio that keeps pulling me towards getting a white one when I get another one.

 

[L33 KUP]

Jesus that wiring loom is horrendous! Glad you got it solved before it bbq'd your car.
Love this car, it's the clio that keeps pulling me towards getting a white one when I get another one.

Thanks mate really appreciate it


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[SilverTrackSurfer]

Great thread mate. I actually have just finished my own loom, found a great thread on another forum with detailed pictures.

I used a 225 loom that came with the engine and the only plugs I needed to change was on the UPC end. 2 plugs needed fully changing and 1 plug you could release all the pins and re pin. Yet to test as I need to get my ecu done.

Could you help me with an issue I'm having. I have asked the question in various places and get no answers or total different answers lol.

The purge canister on the megane engine did you just connect the bottom to the vac pipe where the clio one was o the left hand side of the bay? I know in my photo it is upside down, now changed to the right way.

 

[Mark_L]

Great thread mate. I actually have just finished my own loom, found a great thread on another forum with detailed pictures.

I used a 225 loom that came with the engine and the only plugs I needed to change was on the UPC end. 2 plugs needed fully changing and 1 plug you could release all the pins and re pin. Yet to test as I need to get my ecu done.

Could you help me with an issue I'm having. I have asked the question in various places and get no answers or total different answers lol.

The purge canister on the megane engine did you just connect the bottom to the vac pipe where the clio one was o the left hand side of the bay? I know in my photo it is upside down, now changed to the right way.

From memory, you only need to replace one plug, the one for the fan relay and starter cable can actually be completely removed from the clio loom and put into the megane loom. Removing the same wiring from the megane loom.

I believe you can remove the canister in the pic but I just ran the vacuum from the drivers side across to the canister.

 

[SilverTrackSurfer]

From memory, you only need to replace one plug, the one for the fan relay and starter cable can actually be completely removed from the clio loom and put into the megane loom. Removing the same wiring from the megane loom.

I believe you can remove the canister in the pic but I just ran the vacuum from the drivers side across to the canister.

Thanks Mark ill connect mine up like yours I think.

On the megane loom there are 2 upc plugs that are totally different to the clio, so I just cut them off and soldered the clio plugs on. Just waiting to hear if my ecu is a euro 4 one. Then once done I can start her up!

 

[L33 KUP]

Great thread mate. I actually have just finished my own loom, found a great thread on another forum with detailed pictures.

I used a 225 loom that came with the engine and the only plugs I needed to change was on the UPC end. 2 plugs needed fully changing and 1 plug you could release all the pins and re pin. Yet to test as I need to get my ecu done.

Could you help me with an issue I'm having. I have asked the question in various places and get no answers or total different answers lol.

The purge canister on the megane engine did you just connect the bottom to the vac pipe where the clio one was o the left hand side of the bay? I know in my photo it is upside down, now changed to the right way.

Hi mate, just been out to the car to refresh my memory, yeah as Mark said I have used the Clio pipe that usually goes to the drivers side, I used heat and gently bent the pipe to position over to the valve. Here’s a photo not sure it will show to much but may help.

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[SilverTrackSurfer]

Hi mate, just been out to the car to refresh my memory, yeah as Mark said I have used the Clio pipe that usually goes to the drivers side, I used heat and gently bent the pipe to position over to the valve. Here’s a photo not sure it will show to much but may help.

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Thanks mate appreciate you going to look!

 

[L33 KUP]

Thanks mate appreciate you going to look!

No probs let me know if you need any more advice or photos, treating it as a job in the week Monday to Friday so on it most days.

Oh you’ll also notice the hose on top of my thermostat housing because like you I used an earlier 225 engine (from a trophy) the thermostat housing has a outlet bung on it, mine kept leaking. I need to source an r26 or later housing now, it works as it is currently but looks horrible, yours may not leak but mine did so something else to think about.

 

[SilverTrackSurfer]

No probs let me know if you need any more advice or photos, treating it as a job in the week Monday to Friday so on it most days.

Oh you’ll also notice the hose on top of my thermostat housing because like you I used an earlier 225 engine (from a trophy) the thermostat housing has a outlet bung on it, mine kept leaking. I need to source an r26 or later housing now, it works as it is currently but looks horrible, yours may not leak but mine did so something else to think about.

Awesome mate thanks! Thats what I'm doing, currently waiting on pure motorsport aircon delete and a header tank.

Ill keep an eye on the thermostat housing!

 

[L33 KUP]

Been a busy few days, stripping out and tidying then painting the interior, it’s come up really well using only aerosol cans and it really tidies the interior up.

Below for comparison, I’ve even got a new drill so even that’s changed [emoji23]

I’ve removed the heater most along with most of the unnecessary wiring but I’m waiting on a captive nut gun so I can bolt the new race heater up to the bulk head, then I can get the dashboard back in and start working out where switches for the radiator fan and the heater will go. I’ll then check everything is working and start on tidying the rear wiring loom up and removing what’s no longer required.

I made a blank for the old heater box and then one for the new heater that I’ll cut two spots in for the pipes to run through.

I also decided to paint the boot floor section black as this is where I put the extra set of wheels so with white it will just get filthy very quickly, it’s had some crude masking off but should hopefully serve its purpose well and be easier on the eye with some use compared to if it was all white.

(Below for comparison)

And then here you can get an idea of the tidied loom and I moved the ECU to where the passengers airbag used to be so if I decide to not run a glovebox, which is surprisingly heavy but very useful, then I won’t have the ECU and wires on show, I’ll also tidy the remaining wires up behind the dash it’s back in.

Hopefully finish the interior off next week then can start on some more mechanical items.