Track car on a budget!

I’m running around 8 minutes of toe out on the front (per wheel).

On the rear I’m running 2.5 degrees of camber and 16 minutes of toe in.

I had my car set up by String Theory so I unfortunately don’t know which shims he used but I know he used 2 each side.
 
Message or ring up pure motorsport and send them your current setup and they can tell you (I would go with the above as a good starting point)
 
When i setup the front myself the other week, although it was a very quick alignment and was far from being perfect...i had 12 minutes toe out a side and the front end seemed very pointy - having driven it only a few miles with this new setup, it feels less responsive, so i am going to spend some time on it and revert back.

I was planning on putting 1 degree shims bith sides on the rear, so around the 2.5 negative - with putting the nsr toe equal to the osr of how it sits now.

Hopefully this is the way to go?
 
A small update...
New rear discs and pads, along with 1degree camber shims and toe out of for the OSR to level it all up.

I have had some time to play with the coilovers and have managed to get to a point where i am extremely happy! It handles like it is on rails!

Off to Bedford for a trackday a week Monday, which I am really looking forward to! 20220319_105111.jpg20220319_165650.jpg
 
Another little addition to add to this, as living with these machines can be testing to say the least!

Firstly the good news! After a long drawn out wait, my suprise new crash helmet for my 30th birthday from back in November arrived Friday and just in time for the trackday at Bedford. I am over the moon with it


Having arrived at the hotel sunday night, we had a cracking meal and headed to the track the following morning, where it was cold but bright and sunny...a good day was on the cards!

Signed on and did the sighting laps, as usual no issues there!
Did one session of around 5 laps to make sure the tyres were coming up to temperature and adjust the pressures accordingly.
First impressions on the new BC coilovers are amazing and i found myself being able to place the car much better on the circuit in comparison to my previous coilover setup!

With pressures adjusted it was time to head back out - which i will attach the video. All was going really well for two laps, until i exited the first corner and looked up in the mirror...to be met with a cloud of white smoke! Instantly pulled off and turned the car off.

On further inspection after getting towed off track, it smelt of transmission fluid. It would appear the standard differential or something else inside the gear box has broken up and broken the gearbox casing!
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After a bit of an heated conversation with the AA patrolman, he agreed to hitch us up and relay us to another services to get us home.
There's only one way to go from here I guess and that will be time to go LSD. I can get a good deal on a quaife, so will probably go that route.
 

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Seeing ask I found a 10% discount code for k-tec and hearing many good things about them, I have ordered a blackline diff. Hoping its not too much of a pain to fit?!
Should help massively on track too with a bit of luck.
 
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Am i missing something here? Has the attachment doesn't work

Yeah weirdly his post disappeared lol, it was your old car owned by his mate, but for most of us it was upside down (hence my comment lol)
 
Yeah weirdly his post disappeared lol, it was your old car owned by his mate, but for most of us it was upside down (hence my comment lol)

Ahh fair enough, was it my old golf or one of my previous clios? Lol
 
Thought it had been long enough that it had sat in the drive not being touched.
So started in removing the gearbox ready for fitting the diff and seeing what had caused the failure.
As always when i decide to get onto the car, it never plays ball! I have managed to get all the hubs off and subframe unbolted, i have undone the bolt that is fitted to the UJ inside the car...but the subframe will not drop down!
Have i missed something really stupid? As i cannot for the life of me see what it is.
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The steering column is attached at the Universal joint down at the pedals push the UJ forward to disconnect it will not disconnect vertically the front Radiator subframe can hold the main subframe.

Removal guide make sure the steering wheel is not turned when disconnected it will mess up the steering angle sensor and with too many turns one way can break the steering wheel airbag/ clock spring.

Subframe removal guide
 
Stripped the gearbox down today, so see the extent of the damage that has been done.
It would appear that I have had a lucky escape in the sense that the gears and syncros have been untouched. Will need a through cleaning, to ensure all the swarf and debris are removed, but we look good to go from that side of things.
It appears that the pinion in the standard open differential has snapped and taken then retaining spring with it.
So a new/replacement bell housing along with the blackline and we should be ready to go again!
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As a continued battle with is car, i thought i would fit new Powerflex bushes to the lower arms and the arb while it is all out.
The bolts that hold the arb to the subframe are just spinning. I cannot see a captive nut anywhere, so assume the subframe has a thread in it? Anyone had this problem before?
Looking like i will have to cut the bolts out!