Suj's Nimbus Clio 197 and E36 328i Trackcar


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Definitely will!

A part of me really regrets not getting on the hype with the rwd stuff early on. Remember when 36’s were basically worthless…. Times have changed!
Yep, I paid £600 for my old E36, 2 owner 130k miled 328i (non-Msport) but everything was cheap, I sold my S14a 200sx for £2700 (with shit loads I'd done to it).

So it looks like there is quite a few coming to Snett, F0xy (M50B30 stroker with ITBs), Matt Pinder (Nige Pinder's son, who has a mental MK2 turbo golf, he's coming too, Matt has a S54B32 in his E36), Taney (M50B30 stroker), Chaynes in his 328i there is gonna be as many BMWs as Clios apparently haha.
  • Haha
Reactions: RSRowe


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I got a long list of things I need to tick off, most of them a minor things now luckily (the big things have now been done).

The studs on the front were a bit too short for my liking, so I have to run 20mm spacers for wheels to clear the damper (17x9 ET42 wheels, so ET22 with spacers), but the studs didn't have a lot of thread engagement (I think it met the minimum engagement thread needed....but better safe...)

So I had ordered some studs and new smaller nuts from TRSUK.


The studs have deadspace at the top, so it's less than it looks there.

Using the double nut method (giggity) they all came out well (and I lost most of my shins from trying to undo the nuts from each other!!!)


I used brake cleaner on the new studs and cleaned them from any manufacturing grease, I sprayed the holes on the car and used a tap to make sure there is no crap in there. Red Loctite added to the studs and torqued to 22nm.


All done and left to dry as I had a few other jobs to do.

The passenger front was rubbing when I went down some country lanes, it was sitting lower on that side by about ~10mm, so I raised that side by 10mm.


There is 2 extra collars....this is because the E36 M3 ARB mounts to the damper, not the arm (I am running Eibach ARBs for a 328i, so they bolt to the arms, so I think previous owner(s) removed the tab for it)

It's so easy like this, measure from a datum point, then raise 10mm. So undo (all 3) the lower collar, then as the collars on the springs are tightened to each other, turn them with a C-Spanner and the whole body will move up and down, a nice easy job (well bottom collar needed a bit of hammer time to persuade it to move).
Job done.

Next I was hearing a clunk from the rear and last time I was under the car I noticed the spring was loose (not a little...but quite a bit!) so rear droop was not set correctly.


Again really easy to do, undo the lower collar and rotate the body in or out depending on what you need, apart from dirty threads (wire brush, undo collar and move the body up, then collar back down to then clean the threads where it had built up, then collar went up a treat).
The droop was miles off, so I had to shorten the rear damper drastically to get the spring held in place on both sides, but that is done now.


It was another baking day, so I finished there, the list is getting smaller (and most are minor things just in my list).

Also I hate when things are missing, like I noticed the front bleed nipple covers were not there, luckily I have a load in the tool box

So back on it's wheels and left to dry and I torqued them this morning


I opted for 17mm nuts (over the 19mm that were on it), I wanted black ones for stealth but they only do them in chrome, this is because the TD1.2s have a smaller hole so I have to use a wheel socket without the plastic sleeve on the 19mm but even then it scratches.

So much more thread on show, so spot on!
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