Possible Clutch Issue

Evening all,

I've recently noticed that within VVT and with the engine under load it can be difficult to change gear into 3rd and 4th. I thought it might be a dodgy engine mount as the engine naturally moves under heavy load.

Had my 197 serviced last week (Arnold Clark, Warrington) and they have told me I need a new clutch and will cost me £1100+. Laughable.

Now they told me their mechanic said the clutch felt heavy. It feels perfectly fine to me and changes gears no problem at all whilst driving normally. No slip what so ever also.

So what do you think? Has anyone else experienced the same?

The car is 3 months out of warranty so would be understandably a little annoyed if it needed a new clutch. Mileage is 43k.
 
The gearboxes can be a bit dodgy sometimes when cold and a few people have had to have them changed due to struggling with selecting a gear. But a clutch is one of those things that could have been abused in it's first 6 months of ownership or something, could have been held on the clutch for long periods or otherwise causing premature wear. I'd get a second opinion from a specialist.
 
which arnold clarke mate? the one on gemini? I wouldnt bother with them again.
Went in to price a few bits up, thought I'd ask about cambelt supply and fit while i was there.

£760 odd, including my trade discount. I just laughed and walked outta there as quick as possible.

I can get an OEM cambelt kit for around £100...

Even if it ends up that you do need a new clutch, try other places first as these seem to be robbin b@stards.
 
You'd be much closer to the mark to suspect the gearbox mate, especially with 3rd being a problem. The clutch would only cause poor gear engagement if it was dragging, a typical sign of this is a very low bite point and lots of 'freeplay' in the pedal. Possible cause could be air in the clutch hydraulics.

Failing that have the car parked on level ground with the handbrake off and select 1st with the clutch fully depressed and engine running. If the clutch is dragging the car will most likely creep forward slowly even wiu the clutch fully depressed.

Knowing these motors, especially with the mileage, my money is still on the gearbox. A worn/slippig clutch will not impede gear engagement, but will affect drive.
 
which arnold clarke mate? the one on gemini? I wouldnt bother with them again.
Went in to price a few bits up, thought I'd ask about cambelt supply and fit while i was there.

£760 odd, including my trade discount. I just laughed and walked outta there as quick as possible.

I can get an OEM cambelt kit for around £100...

Even if it ends up that you do need a new clutch, try other places first as these seem to be robbin b@stards.

That's right matey.

I'm only up this neck of the woods with work for a few months so obviously not sure on decent garages and decided that a service with a Renault Garage would be the safest bet. If something big did need doing I wouldn't touch them, I'd be visiting a RS specialist.

You'd be much closer to the mark to suspect the gearbox mate, especially with 3rd being a problem. The clutch would only cause poor gear engagement if it was dragging, a typical sign of this is a very low bite point and lots of 'freeplay' in the pedal. Possible cause could be air in the clutch hydraulics.

Failing that have the car parked on level ground with the handbrake off and select 1st with the clutch fully depressed and engine running. If the clutch is dragging the car will most likely creep forward slowly even wiu the clutch fully depressed.

Knowing these motors, especially with the mileage, my money is still on the gearbox. A worn/slippig clutch will not impede gear engagement, but will affect drive.

Ok thanks for that.

I'll have a test with the clutch when I get an opportunity. But I really can't see that being the problem.

Like you, I think the issue may lie with the gearbox. I'm really hoping it's not as the car is out of warranty and can see that getting expensive very quickly. Unless I find one lurking on Ebay.

Another problem I think might be an engine mount. Is there anyway of testing for movement from a perished mount?
 
Failing that have the car parked on level ground with the handbrake off and select 1st with the clutch fully depressed and engine running. If the clutch is dragging the car will most likely creep forward slowly even wiu the clutch fully depressed.

Bit of a thread revival, but I have a bad feeling about my clutch, having difficulties changing from 3rd to 4th in high rpm. Also occasionally when selecting first from neutral (usually when cold) the car try's to edge forward.

Any thoughts of how to help this or ways to diagnose.

Thanks!
 
I have something simialir to this when changing gear higher up revs range. It's not all the time though.

I reckon it's a slave cylinder issue or clutch. The box doesn't crunch or grind so not synchros.

Ive been told to bleed the slave cylinder as I maybe have boiled the fluid in there and got air in affecting how it works. I'll hopefully do it today and see if cures it.

I went to renault yesterday too speak to the head tech to explain what's happen and see what he thought. Was like talking to a bleeding chimp!!! If he's a master tec, then god help cars that go in there!

2bf Clutchs and slave cylinders aren't that dear it's just labour costs that are killer
 
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The slave cylinder on mine eventually gave up the ghost. When removed it looked like it had exploded. I had similar issues as you describe plus complete loss of clutch and the pedal going very light and needing numerous pumps to bring it back...
 
Right I've bleed the slave cylinder on mine today.

The stuff that come out was very dirty and likey contained air.

Bleed some fresh fluid into it and took for drive after.


what a difference it's made. Clutch feels right , feels tight instead sloppy. Gear changes are now free and smooth .


id recommend on here to anyone, defo get your slave cylinders bleed if done over 20k mileage or used on track!
 
As above I would start with new fluid and full bleed of the system. When mine first started playing up we suspected boiled brake fluid was causing the problem. 6 months later brake fluid leaking out from under the car was the evidence of a serious problem...