TB Rich
Paid Member
yep, I guess they're getting on a bit so metal brackets will seize and plastic clips will break!
The shed needs a remap!
The shed needs a remap!
LY200 - too loud or blow up again, taking bets!
- Thread starter TB Rich
- Start date
The shed needs a remap!
Thats not even funny on a supposed cheap daily.....
***Oh go on then
Good increases available ?
TB Rich
Paid Member
it's just it's rude not to remap a turbo diesel, right?
90-120bhp and 155-195ftlb I think. Luckily it's only £80 for a 3-piece clutch kit as it's pre dual mass era.
However I'll wait until the Clio is back together again before doing it, just in case a break the daily lol!
90-120bhp and 155-195ftlb I think. Luckily it's only £80 for a 3-piece clutch kit as it's pre dual mass era.
However I'll wait until the Clio is back together again before doing it, just in case a break the daily lol!
RSPez
Paid Member
yep, I guess they're getting on a bit so metal brackets will seize and plastic clips will break!
The shed needs a remap!
Honestly get the 206 remapped.
Mine made 120bhp and 292nm's on a stage one.
That's with decat and full custom stainless (MIJ in Walsall)
EGR delete.
Makes a huge difference. I also have got mine down to just over a ton so it's a quick little car.
Looks like you have had a right ball ache with the Clio. But well
Worth it in the end
RSPez
Paid Member
I used HDi tuning and I no a lot of people who have done problem free.
Nice guys who explain to you if you buy the tool to do it your self too.
I did get 55mpg when cruising and 40mpg when trashing it I run BP ultimate diesel too.
It's in the garage for now till I can play with it a bit more
TB Rich
Paid Member
Some progress again this week, not as much as I'd hoped mind.
I forgot to take a new pic of the oil hose with the Torques forged -4 ends on, but they have been swapped over and installed so it runs once more. Just need the front bumper fitting and I can drive to get the Lambda swapped at long bloody last - however......I need some plastic clips from Renault before the bumper can go on
Got the diffuser brackets done, not bad nick considering they've been under the car for 7 years, so getting new ones or having these powder coated seemed a waste of time and money. So I've drilled out the old lug head where it sheared and ground any visible rust back, then just coated in satin Hammerite. Then installed some stainless M8 hardware and loctited so I can continue to easily remove and fasten from under the car as before, without awkwardly needing to get a spanner on the top to stop the bolt rotating. Will use a bit of copper grease when putting the diffuser nut on too.
If they last another 7 years then result frankly!
Also got some Tiger Seal on the Akra trims, just stops them being loose as it was bugging me.
I forgot to take a new pic of the oil hose with the Torques forged -4 ends on, but they have been swapped over and installed so it runs once more. Just need the front bumper fitting and I can drive to get the Lambda swapped at long bloody last - however......I need some plastic clips from Renault before the bumper can go on
Got the diffuser brackets done, not bad nick considering they've been under the car for 7 years, so getting new ones or having these powder coated seemed a waste of time and money. So I've drilled out the old lug head where it sheared and ground any visible rust back, then just coated in satin Hammerite. Then installed some stainless M8 hardware and loctited so I can continue to easily remove and fasten from under the car as before, without awkwardly needing to get a spanner on the top to stop the bolt rotating. Will use a bit of copper grease when putting the diffuser nut on too.
If they last another 7 years then result frankly!
Also got some Tiger Seal on the Akra trims, just stops them being loose as it was bugging me.
TB Rich
Paid Member
At long last made a little bit more progress, bought the suspension but have fitted the rear only. Forgot how much I hate working on cars so very much doubt I'll personally do the fronts, saving money is nice but not worth the hassle!
Forgot to take a pic of it all fitted so only managed to get the phone through the wheels!
Which leaves the following immediate list to do still:
-take for front suspension to be fitted - and have wideband swapped over at same time
-cut spare bonnet (purchased) for carbon Evo NACA vent (awaiting delivery)
-once bonnet cut and fitted, build heat shields for filter
-finish carbon radio blank
-64mm TB and inlet (purchased now) to be fully ported and back to back dyno'd (with mapping of course for the new unit), hopefully pick up a few bhp up top - not expecting miracles and main thing is to not suffer any adverse effects lower down hence I want on the day comparisons.
And the short term list is therefore now:
-bigger cams
-fuel system upgrade (X98 R3T/X85 hybrid fuel pump unit, -6 teflon lines, Radium FPD, X85 fuel rail)
-mapping, (ensure TPS primary load and not bloody MAP, like I asked for last time!)
-bit of spraying, current thoughts are: black door handles, LY bullets with black Renault Sport, black diamonds, black Renault Sport badge rear.
-wrap roof black (not 100% but should work well once badges etc done)
-wrap CS seat backs in dark grey to match the 200 grey trim (or spray them LY, or replace with Tillett B6's!)
Forgot to take a pic of it all fitted so only managed to get the phone through the wheels!
Which leaves the following immediate list to do still:
-take for front suspension to be fitted - and have wideband swapped over at same time
-cut spare bonnet (purchased) for carbon Evo NACA vent (awaiting delivery)
-once bonnet cut and fitted, build heat shields for filter
-finish carbon radio blank
-64mm TB and inlet (purchased now) to be fully ported and back to back dyno'd (with mapping of course for the new unit), hopefully pick up a few bhp up top - not expecting miracles and main thing is to not suffer any adverse effects lower down hence I want on the day comparisons.
And the short term list is therefore now:
-bigger cams
-fuel system upgrade (X98 R3T/X85 hybrid fuel pump unit, -6 teflon lines, Radium FPD, X85 fuel rail)
-mapping, (ensure TPS primary load and not bloody MAP, like I asked for last time!)
-bit of spraying, current thoughts are: black door handles, LY bullets with black Renault Sport, black diamonds, black Renault Sport badge rear.
-wrap roof black (not 100% but should work well once badges etc done)
-wrap CS seat backs in dark grey to match the 200 grey trim (or spray them LY, or replace with Tillett B6's!)
Now they are two serious to-do 'lists' Rich !
New suspenders look sexy as hell. Adjustments on the fly will be sexier still
64mm TB. Arent the reviews on these fairly mixed ? You obviously have high hopes or wouldnt be going down this route.....
New suspenders look sexy as hell. Adjustments on the fly will be sexier still
64mm TB. Arent the reviews on these fairly mixed ? You obviously have high hopes or wouldnt be going down this route.....
TB Rich
Paid Member
just finished sanding the carbon down for the radio blank, just need to get it drilled for the SPA gauge button and then fitted into the dash. I bought a PermaGrit block at Autosport, made very easy work of the carbon.
Yeah 64mm TB is because whilst it was mapped we could see vacuum increasing and it was measured literally at the nipple after the TB. Which meant either the TB or the induction was causing a restriction.....and as the induction is huge I don't see for one second it being that!
I also personally think it's interesting that the K20's typically used here (e.g FN2) use a 62mm TB, but the JDM (FD2) that runs 220bhp from the factory uses a 64mm TB. So when I'm currently ~230bhp I'm pretty sure the Renault 60mm TB is the reason for the vacuum. Obviously with the next cams I'll be looking to do around 240bhp so certainly by that point I would have massive reservations retaining a 60mm TB.
Here was the vacuum graph, should really stay level:
Yeah 64mm TB is because whilst it was mapped we could see vacuum increasing and it was measured literally at the nipple after the TB. Which meant either the TB or the induction was causing a restriction.....and as the induction is huge I don't see for one second it being that!
I also personally think it's interesting that the K20's typically used here (e.g FN2) use a 62mm TB, but the JDM (FD2) that runs 220bhp from the factory uses a 64mm TB. So when I'm currently ~230bhp I'm pretty sure the Renault 60mm TB is the reason for the vacuum. Obviously with the next cams I'll be looking to do around 240bhp so certainly by that point I would have massive reservations retaining a 60mm TB.
Here was the vacuum graph, should really stay level:
TB Rich
Paid Member
yep should look nice when setup, not sure how low it'll be, but it'll be setup based on front wishbone angles and then of course rear setup with rake to suit. The kits the stock B14 stuff with Compbrake top mounts.
Depending on how the wishbones look at various ride heights, I have access to potentially look at building some custom EE brackets that will be a hybrid of stock and cup racer items. The goal would be to fix the roll centre but without the wide track, and therefore no need for longer wishbones.
That way we can get it nice and low but with corrected geo, and once the roll centres fixed it will make a higher effective front wheel rate. Basically it'll be better on track despite using stock B14 springs, but crucially also still keep the vertical compliance a softer setup gives you. As if you deck a car without fixing the roll centre then you really need to go stiffer than otherwise (to compensate for the bigger distance between CoG and the roll centre), but of course stiff setups don't lend themselves to road use!
They will have full structual FEA performed on the designs and I assume at this stage cnc'd in 7075. Potentially could sell them, but they won't be cheap.
I um'd and ar'd for ages over what kit to buy, but for my usage and requirments I think these will be spot on and potentially truly ideal with the brackets.
I don't want a track only car, I think they are too much of a one trick pony, esp given its just a fwd hatch at the end of the day.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Depending on how the wishbones look at various ride heights, I have access to potentially look at building some custom EE brackets that will be a hybrid of stock and cup racer items. The goal would be to fix the roll centre but without the wide track, and therefore no need for longer wishbones.
That way we can get it nice and low but with corrected geo, and once the roll centres fixed it will make a higher effective front wheel rate. Basically it'll be better on track despite using stock B14 springs, but crucially also still keep the vertical compliance a softer setup gives you. As if you deck a car without fixing the roll centre then you really need to go stiffer than otherwise (to compensate for the bigger distance between CoG and the roll centre), but of course stiff setups don't lend themselves to road use!
They will have full structual FEA performed on the designs and I assume at this stage cnc'd in 7075. Potentially could sell them, but they won't be cheap.
I um'd and ar'd for ages over what kit to buy, but for my usage and requirments I think these will be spot on and potentially truly ideal with the brackets.
I don't want a track only car, I think they are too much of a one trick pony, esp given its just a fwd hatch at the end of the day.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
TB Rich
Paid Member
Good I hope! I'll pop to the garage tomorrow and get it booked in so hopefully not too much longer till I can drive it! Mind until the bonnet is cut and airbox built no point fitting the front bumper as I need the visibility to the underside of the bonnet for height - so limited driving until that's all done.
Target is track day end of the month, possibly Abingdon as a cheap localish airfield for a shake-down.
I was tempted by the h&r but not a lot of info out there on them and I'm a long time fan of Billies anyway.
krash67
Gold Member
Interesting comment, did you measure the vacuum at the air inlet (using the tapping points at the rear) to see if this was comparable.
So to not insult your intelligence but for those who are not in engineering but are interested!
Under the physics of air flow through a restriction/venturi (i.e TB) you will get a over inflated vacuum immediately at he point of restriction and after the venturi/restriction due to the increased air speed produced by the restriction. However this effect will reduce with distance i.e pressure recovery. You are right the increased vacuum cannot be assigned to the air box if its as big as the cup race.
However was there any air filter degradation/fouling.
TB Rich
Paid Member
Interesting, I haven't looked at the science behind it - the mapper (Ray West, who has been doing it for about 30yrs) made comment that a bigger TB would likely elevate this, as was something he'd seen before on other vehicles.
My 64mm TB cost me £20 though and is a plug and play from another manufacture - so nothing to lose! Bolt spacing, wiring and plug all fit, but I will need to open the spare inlet out to 66mm to match it.
I'll give it a bit more thought, possibly look at having the 60mm OEM TB just worked a bit too, and chuck it in as a 3rd comparison on the dyno.
Trouble is I don't want to be wasting tons of dosh on dicking around with inlets and TB's - but I do think at the level of tune my car is at, it's not going to hurt to enlarge and optimise the airflow. Even if it won't be until the next cams are in when we push for 240ish.
My 64mm TB cost me £20 though and is a plug and play from another manufacture - so nothing to lose! Bolt spacing, wiring and plug all fit, but I will need to open the spare inlet out to 66mm to match it.
I'll give it a bit more thought, possibly look at having the 60mm OEM TB just worked a bit too, and chuck it in as a 3rd comparison on the dyno.
Trouble is I don't want to be wasting tons of dosh on dicking around with inlets and TB's - but I do think at the level of tune my car is at, it's not going to hurt to enlarge and optimise the airflow. Even if it won't be until the next cams are in when we push for 240ish.
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