Help required please??

Excuse me, but can you please explain in more detail?
Mine is a key card. The ignition lights seem to be one as soon as you open the doors and stay on. Unlike other cars i have had with standard keys.



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So you jump in, lights on dash come up, probably say insert card or push to start (can't remember as I don't look at it!)

When you get in, you press the brake and push the start button on (don't hold it) and the dashs lights should all come on, when they are on the fuel pump will be priming



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GW 197 ex Michelin Road Cup Racer -> Track car/Sprints

http://www.clio197.net/threads/gw-197-ex-michelin-road-cup-racer-track-car-sprints.53560/
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When i do that the engine will try to crank? (I think?). But will try tomorrow.
I do know currently i can not hear the fuel pump at any time.
Its almost like a older car wjen the inertia swith has been tripped or a fuse has been blown.

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Rallyreason said:
When i do that the engine will try to crank? (I think?). But will try tomorrow.
I do know currently i can not hear the fuel pump at any time.
Its almost like a older car wjen the inertia swith has been tripped or a fuse has been blown.

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Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure it only starts if you hold the button. The idea of just pressing it is you can diagnostic check if needed etc without starting the engine and keeping ignition on.

Sounds daft but when you turn the ignition on, if you don't hear it give the fuel tank a good whack, the pump might be failing and is stuck.



_________________________________
GW 197 ex Michelin Road Cup Racer -> Track car/Sprints

http://www.clio197.net/threads/gw-197-ex-michelin-road-cup-racer-track-car-sprints.53560/
_________________________________
 
Or is there a condition where it doesn't ask the fuel pump and ingition to activate?
I can check this tomorrow hopefully.
If i could find a wiring diagram and a basic logic of the system im sure it will make sense?

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Rallyreason said:
Or is there a condition where it doesn't ask the fuel pump and ingition to activate?
I can check this tomorrow hopefully.
If i could find a wiring diagram and a basic logic of the system im sure it will make sense?

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Click to expand...

If the ignition is on the fuel pump will prime. If there's any doubt you can unplug it and test for 12v with the ignition on.

It's not really all that intelligent, no different to just turning a key to ignition, the pump will prime momentarily until it's started and it runs constantly



_________________________________
GW 197 ex Michelin Road Cup Racer -> Track car/Sprints

http://www.clio197.net/threads/gw-197-ex-michelin-road-cup-racer-track-car-sprints.53560/
_________________________________
 
Hopefully will be able to do all the mentioned checks some time today.
Thanks for all the help so far. Will report back on what i find.

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Managed to check for a voltage at the fuel pump.
With the muti plug at the pump disconnected i get a very brief voltage just before the engine goes to crank over of just when i put the ignition on. This is very brief and for less than a second.
I would have thought that there should be a constant voltage at this point?

Does any one have a wiring diagram so that i can systematically go through the wiring and connectors please?
 
If the weather here is better tomorrow i will get under the car and carry out the checks on the new crank sensor.
I have a feeling that it maybe a wiring to that sensor (hence why i have asked about wiring diagrams) or what converts/reads the signal from the sensor not functioning as it should.

I should be getting the Clip software next week, so i will be able to try and use that to see if it shows anything. (once i have learned how to use it)
 
Wiring won't spontaneously change or go bad. You'd have a blown fuse or poor plug connection before anything really went wrong with the loom. I've extensively modified my loom inside and inside the bay. Check absolutely anything that was unscrewed recently. Earths are a major issue. Also open the red connectors attached to the battery, they are fused inside, if they blow across the two the dash lights still come on!



_________________________________
GW 197 ex Michelin Road Cup Racer -> Track car/Sprints

http://www.clio197.net/threads/gw-197-ex-michelin-road-cup-racer-track-car-sprints.53560/
_________________________________
 
Crank sensor is 260 ohms static and 250-280MV when cranking.
Old sensor is infinate ohms
Rechecked fuses again. Removed every one again to check for connection. Unplugged all plugs and reconnected just in case of a bad connection.
Still no good.
Plugged in the Snap diagnostics, no codes.
Noticed that when i crank the engine it does not show any rpm on either the Snap on diagnostic or the cars dash.
Does the sensor readings i have sound about right?

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Well what a strange car. After my last post i decided for some unknown reason to remove coil no.1 and the sensor next to it had to be removed. That sensor obviously dripped oil which i had to wipe away.
I was going to remove all coils and plugs and just go over basics, but thought sod it and just refitted the sensor and coil no.1.
Thought i would just try again and the bloody thing fired up. Turned it off a few times and its all working.
Its a relief, but i really would like to know what the issue was.
I did notice when it was running that i could hear noises from the throttle body. I still have all the air box ect. removed at the moment. I have a spare that i can fit and try, but i have been told in the past that you have to code them to the car?
 
Potentially, but from the test i carried out i was told above that is fine?
This is why i need to get hild of a wiring diagram so that i can understand the system better. Currently i have been working blind which is not ideal.
Is there any relay for the fuel pump? I guess there must be, but do not know where

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been a few on here with intermittent starting and its usually either of 2 issues - fuel pump packing in and/or crank sensor

the pump could be supplied via the auxillary fuse box as there is a multiplug that sends a feed wire to the pump
 
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